There is definitely a change in the air. As we left the trees and grass of Pangboche, order we gained altitude steadily until we reached our current location at Lobuche at 16, 300′.
The terrain has changed to scrub bushes, with short grass, if any, and a cold brisk breeze. Everyone has added a layer or two and are glad we brought our zero degree sleeping bags even though we are sleeping inside teahouses. Last night it reached 23F in my room.
There is a steady stream of teams moving up the Khumbu staying at the newest teahouses, avoiding the older ones with smoke inside. The dining rooms at night are packed and the price of bottled water has gone from 60 to 300 rupees. Many of us are using iodine to clean the water for drinking until we reach the safety of boiled water at our base camp.
There are the normal reactions to altitude and the harsh conditions with a few climbers and trekkers from all teams experiences GI issues, headaches and restless sleep. All normal, nothing staying a night or two at a lower elevation should not cure.
Communication is a bit of a challenge with power running low in the tea houses with so many people needing to charge their cell phones, ipods, etc. It has been very cloudy each afternoon preventing me from using my solar panel fully to keep my gear charged. The Ncell cell phone service has been spotty requiring a quick climb to a high point to connect. Getting a connection has been an issue from time to time and the data service is so slow it is almost unusable for anything of substance thus far.
We got our first good look at Lobuche while at Periche. I think all of us we a bit taken with the steepness of this peak we will use for acclimatization next week.
But next is our final day or two to trek to Base Camp. The IMG Sherpas have established our BC with personal tents, cooking, dining, toilet, shower, communications, storage and who knows what other tents all set up. This was incredibly hard work because each tent required a level platform to be chiseled out of the hard ice and rock.
I am eager to get there and get settled into my tent, my home away from home. We will have our Puja, the ceremony to ask permission and forgiveness from the mountain Gods to climb the mountain. This is always a highlight of any Himalayan expedition and one that the Sherpas lead and take extremely seriously. After that we will retrace our steps to the IMG Base Camp at Lobuche and make the three day climb to 20,000′ for acclimatization purposes.
I can tell a slight change in attitude within our team. There is a slightly more serious tone to the chatter and a bit less conversation as we trek. Of course the altitude has a lot to do with this but also as we get closer to Base Camp, we all are thinking about the reasons we are here.
As I mentioned in my audio dispatch yesterday, we passed by the memorial to those who have died on everest. It is always a moving moment for me as I walk the line of stone memorials. I try to read each name. Most are Sherpa. This fact alone cause me to reflect on what it takes to climb this mountain and the sacrifices these men and women show each year.
Today we visited the Italian atmosphere monitoring station. You can visit their website at http://evk2.isac.cnr.it/ to read about their mission and also view the webcam and see exactly what we saw. Remember we are about 12 hours ahead of North America, so if it is dark, check back when it is day time here. They basically are monitoring the atmosphere for pollution.
On a personal note, all of this is so familiar; bringing back memories of my previous trips. I feel great, with my vital signs all at remarkably good levels for an old man! But seriously, I think the slower pace of the trek is paying off for me. Everyone is different but I feel like I am acclimatizing at a more natural pace. While I am eager to get to BC, as I said, I also know this is a long expedition. It is now about 2 weeks since I left home and there are another 6 to go. I do miss my family.
Patience, staying healthy, maintaining a positive attitude – all go towards a successful experience. I appreciate all the comments on this site and on Facebook. I do get to read them but cannot always reply. Your support for me personally is deeply valued and your support for Alzheimer’s is the tangible measure of this expedition.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
10 thoughts on “Leaving the Trees and Grass. Everest BC Next!”
Keep it up, Alan. I KNOW you will get there, to the top! I send positive vibes to you EVERY DAY. Stay strong, stay healthy, and know that people around the world are with every crampon dig into the ice.
so great to see the photos, and get your reactions to things as you progress Alan. Very interesting. Lobuche from that shot looks like more than a hike uphill!
be well
Joe
Be healthy, safe and strong – I’m following you daily, with deep appreciation for what you are doing, and for sharing it with us.
What a star you are Alan! Climb on. Heather following avidly in England…
Thanks to you Alan. You are a champion. I look forward each day to sharing your climb. My mom is losing her memory. She asks the same question 4 times at dinner! I fear she will one day not recognise us anymore. That’s life I suppose. Lots of strength to you from us here in sunny France.
Hey Alan… Ive got this non-descript mountain as my desktop wallpaper with my POSITIVE VIBRATIONS icon sitting at the top for you. Im hoping the “Law of Attraction” is at work here. LOL.
Sounds fantastic Alan! Love the pictures of a world I’ve never seen. All the best to ABC. Climb on!
Alan, Keep climbing strong. Looking forward to watching the climb of Lobuche. Robert and I are doing the infamous Incline tomorrow morning. We’ll have a good thought for you.
Climb On, my friend!
Patrick
Hey Alan – thanks for sharing all these greats visions of the trek with us. Your talk of the big climbs ahead of you has inspired me to do an extra set of weights during my workout today.
The pictures and your descriptions of the journey are breathtaking for me! I relive my own experience trekking to base camp. Thank you for all the trouble you go to to make it possible for us to experience this, vicariously, with you.
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