Manaslu 2013: Thoughts as I Board the Plane

Leaving home for an 8000 meter climb is always a time of mixed emotions. On one hand, s I am excited to return to the high mountains and expedition life but on the other, ed I am leaving home for a long time.

Climbing Manaslu will be a series of firsts for me. I have never been to this part of Nepal. It is more remote and primitive than the Khumbu area around Everest. Also it will be my first 8000m climb after reaching the summit of Everest almost two and half years ago.

The climb itself will be different as I have never been to Manaslu. While not overly difficult, there are a few sections that are, well, “steep” and the weather is known to be, well, “difficult”.  Oh and did I mention it was high, as in twenty six thousand seven hundred and fifty nine feet high? And I start walking at 1,870 feet meaning I will walk up hill for 24,889 feet. Talk about sea to summit, I’m tired just writing this!

The anxiety might also be upped a notch or two given the recent series of deadly avalanches that have plagued the world’s 8th highest mountain.

But the familiarity of climbing at extreme altitude is what calls me back for more. As previously noted, this will be my eighth expedition to an 8,000 meter mountain with previous climbs on Cho Oyu, Broad Peak, Shishapangma and of course, Mt. Everest. This will be my 32nd major climbing expedition.

Why?

What brings me back is complicated and simple. Paraphrasing Thorton Wilder’s quote on adventure: “An adventure is when you are in it you pray to come home alive, and when you are back home, you pray to go back.”

The contradiction can be simplified by saying it helps me feel alive by feeding something deep in my essence that is hard to explain.

The dream of a high climb provides a purpose for training. The preparation keeps me sharp and motivated. The time away increase my appreciation for what I have.  My life is enriched though my climbing partners. It is my fuel for memories.

The trek to base camp is a long affair involving many hours of walking along dirt trails surrounded by trees, brush and simple villages. The highlight is making eye contact with the kids along the way, hearing them laugh and smile as they call out “Namaste” to us – tall strangers passing by in their world. We are guests and should never forget we are given a gift to walk in their world for a moment.

Base Camp life is simple. My little tent becomes home. I carefully lay out my gear in the same order I have for over a decade of expedition climbing; pausing to reflect on why I brought each item, feeling the memories from previous climbs.  Rituals are important.  Each piece has its own spot. I can reach everything in the total darkness of the early morning hours. An order to life is part of the experience. It brings comfort; satisfaction.

My teammates become my new family. Some of them become lifelong relationships continuing well after the climb, others are temporary. Secrets are told during the depth of downtimes. Hopes and fears; dreams and disappointments become the topic of long talks. Confidence is built, trust is established.

The first climb above Base Camp is when the expedition takes on a new life. The purpose becomes real. Planning becomes reality. Each step is a new one. The uncertainty brings your senses to life in a way impossible back home. Pausing high on a snow slope, a look around bring focus to the purpose, a smile to a cold face.

As the winds pick up, snow pelts your face and you feel a tingle in your toes, you think deeply about where you are, what you are doing. You are now a visitor in a world not designed for you. Your time is limited.

Packing the Duffels

I have my duffel bags packed; sitting on the floor ready to go. Each one weighs in about 55 pounds, a bit less than for previously expeditions.

I have the usual assortment of high altitude gear from boots to sleeping bags, packs and snacks. One change for Manaslu was that I upgraded all my outer layers to reduce weight and improve flexibility. I have become fond of Patagonia clothes over the years. While expensive, I have found they are a great value and still use many items that are over ten years old.

This time I have a new ensemble of layers starting with the simple Houdini wind shirt, followed by the amazingly light 7 ounce Down Ultralight Hoody. The final layer is the Tropshere Jacket that is water and wind proof yet extremely light. This combination will serve me well between Base Camp and the last camp before the summit.

For the summit, I will rely on my 12 year-old The North Face down suit. This old friend has taken me to 8000m many times and to the summit of Everest. I know it is old and probably not working at 100% but like my 57 year-old body it gets it done.

My secret weapon however continues to be my Mountain Hardwear Power Stretch suit. This Polartech fleece keeps me warm on the coldest days. Not to be left out, and I am picky about this, only pure merino wool goes next to my skin. Sheep are amazing. You never see them sweat or shiver!

You can see my complete gear list on my site.

Training

I learned a lot while training for the 7 Summits. In 2010, the year before the climbs, I never went to a gym. My workouts were outdoors in my Colorado mountains. I climbed, hiked and walked with a 30 to 45 pound backpack for hours on end.  I have never felt more physically fit than before my 10 months of back to back expeditions in 2011.

For Manaslu, I wanted to take that experience to the next level. In December 2012, I tore the medial meniscus in my left knee. While not horribly serious it did require surgery if I wanted to remain active at the level I envisioned. So on January 24, 2013, I went under the knife to repair the tear. Now I had matching knees with surgical scars. My right knee was operated on in 1974 after I destroyed my ACL.

Knowing that my major muscles were in good shape, I knew I had to work the micro muscles so I embarked on a goal to climb a Colorado 14,000 foot mountain (14ers) each week plus do smaller hikes and climbs in between to get my knee in shape and improve my cardio and stamina.

As I prepare to leave for Kathmandu, I have climbed over 110,000 vertical feet (20 miles), summited 27 of my Colorado 14ers and been out on countless other hikes and treks in the last 7 months.

While many have been with my invaluable climbing partners like Jim Davidson, Robert LeClair, or Barry Johnson, many were alone. Jim stands out, meeting me at 4AM for many climbs in all sorts of weather – long days, endless discussions of world events, family and climbing dreams – support that will never be taken for granted – a friendship that will endure the ages.

The alone time was part of the plan. Walking for hours in silence, you have time to consider why you do what you do. Time to think. It is easy to turn around when no one is looking, the let up on the pace. But metal toughness is about being accountable to yourself. It is about being strong for you. This lesson carries on when you are not alone and into all parts of life.

Memories are Everything

I close out my dispatches and many messages with this tagline. It’s about Alzheimer’s. Many of you know my story, the story of Ida Arnette and the day she asked me “Now, who are you again?” It is scar deeper than any on my knees. It cut into my heart.

But memories need to be made. Memories come from living. Memories come from dreaming. I like to say “Dream it, Live it, Share it.”

I dream of the high mountains, the challenges, the hardship, the reward. The summit is a bonus. The experience becomes the memory.

I leave for Kathmandu in a couple of days to begin making new memories. I will share as much as I can using amazing technology.  But at times I will be alone, deep in my own thoughts, learning more about who I am and where to go on this journey of life.

I hope you come along.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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