Everest 2016: General Updates

Icefall Doctors on Everest

We are now about a month out for climbers to arrive in Nepal to begin Everest 2016 so these are some general updates.


The Icefall Doctors are planning to begin setting the route through the Khumbu Icefall on March 7. There is some concern about the stability of the Icefall after last year’s April 25th and May 12th earthquakes that damaged ladders and ropes along the route. However the route was established last autumn for Japanese climber Nobukazu Kuriki’s unsuccessful attempt and the Doctors reported no serious issues. Note, that the route is reset each season anyway as the ladders are removed around June 1 each year. As always, nothing is certain until they get onto the glacier and see for themselves what this year will hold. source


After a year of ‘study’, the Nepal government finally approved extending all climbing permits from 2015 for two years. This will enable a climber to save their permit fee, $11,000 for Everest for example, and transfer to another team if needed. It would have been better if they had approved it 6 months ago in order to spread out the 2015 climbers who want to return this year but waited for the decision to be made. Now 2017 might be extremely crowded. There were over 800 individual permits issued last year including 265 for Everest. But in any event, all good for the climbing industry. source

Travel Warnings Lifted

After the earthquakes, many governments around the world placed travel warning for their citizens traveling to Nepal. One by one most have been lifted and the United States, one of the last, did so on February 29th. The impact of this has been some climbers and trekkers have been unable to get travel insurance so this issue should be gone now. source

Blockade Ended

A bit of good news for the Nepali people and climbers/trekkers arriving next month. The blockade is over and there is no more fuel rationing. There have been long lines and limited fuel for taxies and buses not mention slowing down air travel.  source

Tibet Border Closed

Similar to other years, China closes Tibet to visitors until March 30 fearing protests. This should have minimal impact on Everest climbers who usually arrive in early April. source

Ms. Elizabeth Hawley Honored

Finally, if you follow Himalayan climbing you know Ms. Hawley. She has been chronicling climbs in Nepal since 1963. The Nepal government honored her by naming a 6182m peak, Peak Hawley. Ms. Hawley responds as anyone who knows her would expect: “I think it’s a joke,” Ms Hawley told The Independent from Kathmandu. “They should not name mountains after people.” source

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

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