Everest/Lhotse 2016: Preparing to Leave

How many times have I written that headline for myself, and for so many others? Its the end of March and climbers from around the world are on airplanes flying to Kathmandu in hopes of reaching a long sought after goal. For many,  too many, it is deja vu – all over again.

Excellent Kathmandu based reporter Rajan Pokhrel wrote for the The Himalayan that only 71 Everest permits from 10 teams had been issued as of March 10. There is always a mad rush towards the end of March and into early April so this number will certainly increase. I’m expecting about 200 Everest permits, down from the 265 in 2015. Of the 77 permits issued for 2016, 33 were reused from 2015.

Dreams

Newfoundland climber, TA Loeffler, who is returning to Everest for her third time posted this request from her followers. Follow her blog closely, she is a wonderful writer and I wish her the :

Send good thoughts. While I am climbing, send me some good thoughts. Say a prayer. Do a mantra. Light some juniper. Hold me in the Light. Whatever way you might chose to do it, ask for my protection and safe return from the mountain. Send me strength, energy, and perseverance. Beam me wisdom, courage, and compassion. Wish me luck over and over again.

David Liano, from Mexico, with five summits including from both sides, now wants to attempt climbing without supplemental oxygen.

IceFall Doctor Training

The climbing community lead by the Khumbu Climbing Center has been training the Icefall Doctors on techniques the last few weeks. This is the third year that the training has taken place.

Conrad Anker and Pete Athans, The North Face Athletes, have lead this effort along with instructors Phu Nuru, DaNuru and Panuru Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa of the Sherpa Foundation told me:

they are one of the hardest and dangerous job on mt. Everest. Sherpa Foundation, Petzl, AlexLow foundations are the sponsor this this safety training. There are 3 Instructors and 12 Ice doctors on Everest right now.

The instructor from Khumbu Climbing School and SPCC are organizer of this. We feel very fortunate to be part Sponsor of this very important safety training. Phunuru Sherpa is the lead instructor on this.

Pete Athans added:

Just received word from one of our Instructors, Phu Nuru Sherpa, who has just arrived in Phortse after 10 days at Everest Basecamp. The Icefall Doctors’ training has been completed and the team is now working on establishing the route through the icefall to camp one in what we hope will be a good season on Everest for everyone attempting to climb this year.

Apparently, the training went exceptionally well and big thanks to everyone from the Icefall Doctor team, the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and the Buffer Zone committee who have contributed time , resources and energy in making this specific training possible.

Lastly, though, of course, to everyone at the Khumbu Climbing Center, Alex Lowe Charitable Foundation as well. Specifically, Instructors Phu Nuru, DaNuru and Panuru for their professionalism, expertise and generosity in spending excellent time with such deserving candidates.

Icefall Progress – lots of ladders!

The Doctors are reported to have the route through the Icefall and approaching Camp 1, however according to this report in the Kathmandu Post, they are having a bit if difficulty:

Although a week has passed since they began their work, the high-altitude spets have not yet reached Camp 1 due to difficulties in installing the equipment. “There are several cracks and holes along the Everest route this year,” said Ang Kami Sherpa, adding last year’s earthquake might have resulted in the cracks. “As a result, we need more aluminium ladders this year compared to previous years to navigate through the cracks and holes.”

According to Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC), more than 40 ladders have been installed below Camp 1, and the number could hit 200 by the time the Icefall doctors reach Camp 2.

Note that these are probably individual ladders and not crevasse crossing. In previous years, there were between 20 to 30 crevasse crossing in the Icefall and another 4 to 8 in the Western Cwm. Each crossing could be anywhere from one to right ladders lashed together.

Everest off the Standard Route

A small two person team fromSlovakia will attempt the seldom climbed Southwest face:

“After 2009, Vladimír Štrba and Zoltán Pál from Slovakia are going to make the summit attempt using the dangerous south-west route this spring,” Ganesh Thakuri of Utmost Adventure Trekking said.

Annapurna and Others

Not be left out, there are climbers on other Himalayan peaks right now. On Annapurna, I have great friends who have already made an acclimatization rotation to Camp 2. Chris Burke (who has an excellent blog), Matt du Puy (my K2 summit teammate), Tunc Findek and Carlos Soria with his Spanish team, attempting all of the 8000ers – he has 12 – now at age 75; are all there.

Over on Shishapangma, Ueli Steck and David Gottler Shisha Pangma will attempt to send a new route on the South Face.

On Manaslu, Slovak Peter Hamor is attempting a new route in alpine style attempt on North Ridge.

Dhaulagiri will be popular.  Juanito Oiarzabal will be there along with a British Joint Services expedition. A few of the Annapurna climbers including Carlos Soria’s, Matt du Puy and Chris Burke will also make an attempt.

My Lhotse Attempt

And yes, I’m back to Nepal/Tibet for the 12th time. As I covered in this post, I want to give back to Nepal through supporting the climbing community, continue my quest of climbing the 8000ers and, of highest priority, continue my life’s purpose as an Alzheimer’s advocate. I posted this on Facebook yesterday:

TBT: This one goes way back … to 1956, when I was three months old in the arms of my mom, Ida.

I grew up in a different era than today. Times were a bit simpler, safer to be sure and family was the center of society and hairstyles were, umm, curly?

I had a special relationship with my mom. We were always talking about the world, business … life. So when she died from Alzheimer’s in 2009, it shifted my life in ways I never imagined. Today I climb big mountains, like Lhotse at 27,940 feet or 8156 meters, next month to raise awareness that Alzheimer’s is a disease that has no way of stopping it, no cure and is always fatal. Research funding, both private and national – around the world – is insufficient. Meanwhile every 3 seconds another person is diagnosed and another family begins a one-way journey.

So, as I climb, please spread the word, join the cause by making a donation to one of the worthy research organizations, educational non-profits or join a national al trial registry. Together, we can make a difference.

Wishes

My fervent hope is that 2016 will be a no-drama season in Nepal, and Tibet. Please, no avalanches, no earthquakes, no strikes, no fights. Lets go climb mountains and have gratitude for this unique opportunity. If we summit, then take in the moment with humility and understand what a gift you just received.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything