Autumn Himalayan Climbing: Manaslu Summit Rush, Dhaulagiri Stalled

Manaslu 2013

After a few days of heavy, deep snow on Manaslu, the hordes are prepared to push hard this week. Look for huge crowds at all camps and competition on the narrow summit. Meanwhile rain at base camp and heavy snow above has stalled all efforts on Dhaulagiri.

Dhaulagiri Base Camp 2017
Dhaulagiri Base Camp 2017

Dhaulagiri – Rain and Snow

78-year-old Spanish climber Carlos Soria Fontan on Dhaulagiri is holding at base camp after his first summit attempt stalled after they went up the wrong gully to reach the summit. By the time they had discovered their mistake, the conditions turned cold, windy and snowy so they returned to base camp.

Carlos’s team posted on Facebook:

The #Expedicióncorreos sends us an image today from the base field that says it all. And it is that since they came down from making the attempt at the top of the dhaulagiri, it has not stopped raining, day and night.

What is water in the base field becomes snow in the upper fields of the mountain, which begins to be a concern for the potential danger of avalanches, which could bury the ropes installed.

You have no choice but to wait patiently, observing the changes in the mountain, waiting for the time to improve and that the circumstances can be given to make a second attempt to achieve that spectacular summit that you have almost touched with the tip of The fingers. Much mood team! ????????

Manaslu Northeast Ridge Route
Manaslu Northeast Ridge Route

Manaslu – crowded at all camps

After several Sherpas and two members from Himex summited last week, heavy snow hit Manalsu holding everyone at Base Camp. Now the weather has moved on and there is an estimated 500 people wanting to summit this week.

This is a huge number and more like what we see on Everest. Manaslu is not that large of a peak and finding safe camp sites from avalanches is always a problem.

Also the summit is so narrow and small that only 2 people can stand on it at one time. I waited an hour in 2013 for my turn, so I can’t image what it will be like this week. Hopefully the weather stays calm enough to support all the teams.

Seven Summits Treks posted on their huge team which has become their normal for all their Everest and Manaslu climbs:

  • Chinese Team (Zhang Wei) (9 Member 10 Sherpas) is at Camp 4 and planning to summit tomorrow (25th Sep).
  • Korean Team (2 Korean and 5 Sherpas) are at C4, summit plan 25th Sep.
  • Another Chinese Team (Song’s Team) is at C3 & C2 and planning to summit on 26&27 Sep.
  • Flor (f) from peru is at Camp one planning to summit on 28th sep.
  • Four French are at C2.
  • Aparna Kumar (India) is at C4, summit plan 25th Sep.
  • William from Australia is at C3 with his sherpa Ang dawa, summit plan 26th Sep.
  • Varga Csaba from Hungary is at C2.
  • Sung Il Nam (Korea) with his Sherpa Thilen is at C2.
  • Arnold’s International team will be heading to C1 tomorrow.
Leaving Camp 3 for the summit in 2013. ©alanarnette
Leaving Camp 3 for the summit in 2013. ©alanarnette

The Summit Climb team made an interesting post which is indicative of some commercial team’s’ strategy – let others do the work and follow their path.

Tons of snow here as well as at least four times the number of tents! And I have yet to see the upper part of Camp 1. So, we will now spend the night here, and in the morning move on up to Camp 2. It is still snowing as it has been the whole way up, so we will need to take it easy and hope that somebody else will break trail before us.

Adventure Consultants reported:

Camp 1, 2nd rotation. Well the heavy rain stopped but the cloud and drizzle stayed but we came up to camp 1 anyway arriving here just after Lunch. First jobs was to dig out the tents then get clean snow for melting water, then a mid afternoon nap, make dinner, sleep and get up early for our trip up to camp 2 were we will spend two nights.

The weather the next few days is looking good with many teams going for the summit. We wish them luck and it’s great to have so many people moving on the mountain to keep the route open. Our turn will come.

Best of luck to all and hoping the weather holds for them.

Climb On!
Memories are Everything

Share this post: