Tuesday, October 29, 2019, might be a history-making day in the world of mountaineering given that Nirmal Purja and the team have now established their Shishapangma summit schedule.
As usual, they are climbing in one push, aka alpine style, bypassing any acclimatization. In order to achieve his timeline of seven months for all 14 of the 8000ers he needs to summit Shish by November 23. He posted on Instagram and Facebook:
Now it’s confirmed that, we will be heading for the summit bid on the 29th. Tomorrow early morning, we will leave for camp 2. 28th we are planning to reach camp 3. 29th – “the summit day”.
The weather looks acceptable with extremely cold temperatures but marginal winds with no precip.
Of course, the crux will be the final climb across the knife-edge traverse. As shown in this image from edviestures.com, the main summit is in the right distance. The ridge is about 100-meters/300-feet long leading to the true summit which is only about 15-meters/ 45-feet higher than the central summit. It should take about an hour for Nims to cross, then he has to return the same way.
If he summits on the 29th, he will have summited all 14 in 190 days.
These are the usual camps:
- Base Camp (BC) 5000m, 16,400 feet: BC – ABC 9 miles, 6 hours start of the trip, 4 hours end of the trip
- Advanced base camp (ABC) 5600m, 18,375 feet: ABC – C1 3.7 miles, 8 hours the first time, 6 hours thereafter (one way)
- C1 6400m, 21,000 feet: C1 – C2 .6 miles, 4-5 hours
- C2 7100m, 23,300 feet: C2 – C3 .6 miles, 3-5 hours
- C3 7500m, 24,600 feet: C3 – Summit .6 miles, 7 hours
See my previous post for details on the climb.
Of course, we all know Nirmal Purja’s project is to summit all 14 of the 8000ers in seven months. In order to achieve his timeline, he needs to summit Shish by November 23. If he summits on October 29th, he will have summited all 14 in 190 days.
These are the 8000ers Nims and team have summited thus far:
- Annapurna – April 23
- Dhaulagiri – May 12
- Kanchenjunga – May 15
- Lhotse – May 22
- Everest – May 22
- Makalu – May 24
- Nanga Parbat – July 03
- Gasherbrum I – July 15
- Gasherbrum II – July 18
- K2 – July 24
- Broad Peak – July 26
- Cho Oyu – September 23
- Manaslu – September 27
The other members with Nims for Shish includes Mingma David Sherpa, Gesman Tamang, Gyalzen Sherpa and Jangbu Sherpa.
In 2013, Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set the current record for all 14 in 7 years, 10 months, 6 days. The previous record was set in 1987 by Polish alpinist Jerzy Kukuczka climbing all 14 in 7 years, 11 months, 14 days.
Best of luck to everyone!
Memories are Everything