Everest 2022: World’s Third Highest Peak, Kangchenjunga, Sees Multiple Summits

Nepal issued 68 permits to foreigners for Kanchenjunga, 8586-meters, this spring. Today, May 5, 2022, at least 32 stood on the summit, and a few very strong climbers turned back. Hungarian climber Varga Csaba noted, “Today’s climbing was made difficult by the scorching heat. However, since it snows every day, fresh snow slows down the progress.”

As usual, there is a bit of fog around who summited, turned back, and who is still moving up the mountain. So take all media reports, including mine, as an approximation and not perfect, even though we all do our best.

Everest 2022: First Everest Summits of the year – Confirmed

Everest from Tibet

We knew there was a Chinese team on the Tibet side of Everest and that the rope team had made good progress. Now we learn from Mingma G that on April 30, 2022, 11 Chinese with support summited. I have not been able to independently verify the summits, but Mingma is usually in the know. 

The Chinese posted this video on YouTube of installing weather stations on Everest, including at the summit, in 2022., but it’s unclear if they are actually showing a weather station on the summit in a staging area. On a station, the elevation, 7790m, is written which would be between Camps 2 and 3. The summit is at 8848m.

I’ll stay on this, but I won’t be surprised if the Chinese summited.

Everest 2022: Weekend Update May 1 – Summits, Rescues and Cimbing – A ‘Normal’ Season

It’s May Day on Everest and some teams are having a party, while others are focused on their acclimatization schedule, and some now eying the summit. But everyone needs to wait for the fixed ropes. The upper mountain may have some moderate winds that may delay the rope team. We saw summits on a few 8000ers but the conditions remain iffy. Still, thus far 2022 is a low-drama season. 

Big Picture

With so many climbers high on Everest, the news is scarce due to a lack of comms. Teams are doing their rotations on Everest to Camp 2 and sometimes a bit higher to Camp 3, few if any thus far are following the traditional model of sleeping at Camp 3, nearly 7,000-meters. Those who won’t be using Os will need to go to 8,000-meters before their summit attempt. But for now, several teams declared good enough and are settling in to wait for the summit weather window. It will be at least two weeks or so until the forecast shows a few days with the summit winds under 30mph/50kph. Some teams are now doing the fashionable “touch grass” down valley, ready to return at a moment’s notice for the summit push.