Autumn 2022 Himalayan Season: Mass on Manaslu – Rope to True Summit

2013 Manaslu "summit." Photo by Alan Arnette

The fixed ropes are now to the true summit of Manaslu. As expected, Manaslu is overrun with clients and a greater number of support climbers. Thus far, the Nepal government has issued 394 permits to foreigners, so considering a 1:1.5 support ratio, that puts close to 600 people on the peak, with more to come.

In an interesting twist, a few climbers who climbed all fourteen of the 8000ers are returning to Manaslu to correct the “sins” of the past by tagging the true summit. I don’t expect all of the people on Manaslu to attempt the true summit unless the conditions are extremely safe, or for example, a boot path is created that allows beginner 8000er climbers to simply follow a trail. Most will be content to tag the fore summit and move on to other 8000ers next spring.

Elite Expeditions, who were awarded, based on their lowest bid to the Expedition Operator’s Association, to fix the ropes to the summit, said their team of seven Sherpas has reached the true summit. No word on if they took the lower traverse or followed the ridge.

This will open the route for summit opportunities. However, poor weather has prevented most teams from making progress above Camp 2. This is pretty normal for Manaslu, which sees rain, not snow, at Base Camp about this time every year. It is one of the wettest camps you will find in climbing.

Multiple teams are climbing Manaslu this season, including:

Norweigan Kristin Harila , who is on track to the summit of 14 of the 800e0rs in six months, is at Manaslu Base Camp. She is climbing with Pasdawa Sherpa, and Dawa Ongju Sherpa, of 8K Expeditions.

Everest Ski Update

Andrzej Bargiel and the team gave this update:

We are checking in from Base Camp, the descent from camp 1 to base was very difficult, fresh snow and shifting of the glacier caused the previously laid road virtually non-existent. A moment of rest and we continue

He wants to ski from the summit to Base camp without supplemental oxygen. He is climbing with photographer Bartek Pawlikowski, cameraman Carlos Llerandi and eight Sherpas.

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