Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 6–1st 8000er Summits

Despite ominous weather and route conditions, various media reports have at least four climbers summiting Annapurna on Sunday, April 6, 2025. Early reports of disturbing conditions on Annapurna seem to be mirrored on Everest. The Kumbu is buzzing with activity, and the Icefall Doctors are struggling again this year to get the route through the Icefall. In other words, busy as usual in the mid-2020s.

Big Picture – Warning Signs

Let’s start with the reports from Annapurna. After an abnormally dry winter, the lower mountain, usually snow-covered, is bone dry, and the upper mountain is hard-packed, blue ice. Climbers are not using their mountaineering boots or crampons to reach Camp 1. According to long-time Sherpa climbers, Annanupurna is experiencing some of the worst conditions ever. The Icefall Doctors note rockfall onto the Icefall slowing progress.

Nepal began issuing permits for Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu, 198, thus far for Everest.  Also, the fixed lines are now at Ama Dablam’s summit. Ama is traditionally more of an Autumn climb since most commercial guides have resources on Everest and the other 8000ers, but a few people will climb it this spring.

Climbing the Seven Summits notes their busy start to the season: “We currently have 10 teams in the Khumbu Valley, all with eyes on big objectives, from the summit of Everest at 29,035 feet to our luxury Everest Base Camp at 17,598 feet.”

There is some good news regarding Leave No Trace principles on the Nepal side. The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) announced rules to address the trash problem. 

Last Week – Slow Icefall Progress

The Icefall Doctors are struggling to establish the route in the Khumbu Icefall. Last year, it took them about two weeks longer than planned to find a safe route. The last report had 1,000+ meters of rope in the Icefall and four ladders over crevasses.  The Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) provided this update:

Setting up the Khumbu Icefall route has been particularly challenging this season due to strong winds and frequent rockfalls. Despite the tough conditions, our Icefall Doctors are working tirelessly to open the route on time. We appreciate their unwavering commitment and courage. Stay tuned for more updates from the Icefall!

Other 8000er – Annapurna Summits

Besides Everest’s Icefall activity, all eyes are on Annapurna, where Seven Summits Treks gave an update:

This morning we celebrated the first success on Annapurna I (8091 m). Our climber Cesar Chinchay (No O2) from Peru successfully summited Annapurna at around 10 am Nepal time. Along with Cesar, 2 Sherpas and a Chinese climber from Imagine Nepal reached the summit. The team roped up amongst themselves to climb the last section from the French Couloir to the summit. Tonight is the big night on Annapurna. We, Seven Summit Treks, are teaming up with Pioneer Adventures and 8K Expeditions to fix the last 500/600 meters of rope and the rest of the summit bid begins.

Next Week

In April, arrivals will increase, and many will be on the trail trekking to Goyko or Everest Base Camp. Some will tag EBC and then go on to Lobuche, Island Peak, or other destinations, while some will settle in at camp, making it their home for the next two months.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Himalayan Database

I use the Himalayan Database as my primary source of Everest summit statistics. If you are climbing in 2022, they ask you to fill in an electronic web-based survey, replacing the time-consuming process of visiting each team in their hotel before the climb. In addition, you can now download the HDB for free at their site.

An email notification is sent to everyone on the mailing list for each new post. If you would like to see anything special this year, post a comment or drop me an email.

Here’s the Podcast of this Weekend Update

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

You can listen to #everest2025 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Previous Everest 2025 Season Coverage Posts

• Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 6
• Annapurna 2025: Risky Decisions – April 5 Update
• Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 30
• Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 23
• Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage – an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season
• Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition – A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database
• Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition – A detailed look at Everest’s routes, commercial, standard and non-standard
• How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition – My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest solo, unsupported, and guided

Why this coverage?

I like to use these weekend updates to remind my readers that I’m just one guy who loves climbing. With 38 serious climbing expeditions, including four Everest trips under my belt and a summit in 2011, I use my site to share those experiences, demystify Everest each year, and bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease. My mom, Ida Arnette, died from this disease in 2009, as have four of my aunts. It was a heartbreaking experience that I hope no other family will go through; thus, I asked for donations to non-profits, which 100% goes to them and nothing ever to me.

The Most Common Mistakes Climbers Make

Schedule a Free Call

The most common mistakes climbers make include underestimating the effects of altitude on their bodies and overestimating their physical abilities. Summit Coach can help you achieve a balanced approach to preparation and clarify the confusing advice often found online. Please visit the Summit Coach website for information on prices and offerings.