Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 20–BaseCamp Sprawl

The 2025 season is well underway, and more teams arrive at Everest Base Camp each day. The Icefall Doctors have the fixed line to Camp 2, where 8K Expeditions will take over and fix the route to the summit. I expect them by early May. It’s a tough job, to be sure. Also, a short narrative on the puja ceremony. This may go down as the season of stunts, pleasing those who have called Everest a circus for years. Game on!

Big Picture

Drones, speed climbs, xenon—oh my! What is going on with Everest these days? Looking at social images of the various teams’ base campsites is like looking at a spreading ink blob. What used to be called “urban sprawl”, defined as “… the uncontrolled expansion of cities and towns, characterized by low-density, often poorly-planned development that extends outward from urban centers,” can be applied to base camp as EBC sprawl.

I try so hard not to be the “get off my lawn” guy, but I remember the good old days of sleeping in a North Face VE-25 and feeling fortunate to be one person in a three-person tent—lots of room to spread out. I cherished my ExPed air mattress, Western Mountaineering -20F down sleeping bag, and alpaca socks for sleeping.

One of my Summit Coach clients, the Seven Summit Silver Back, sent me pictures of his glamping setup with the outfitter Climbing the Seven Summits this week. We joked about this while discussing and preparing for his Everest climb as if it was a waste of money, excessive luxury, or common sense to be as comfortable as possible to maximize his chances of resting and summiting well. Looking at his pictures, I think he chose wisely 🙂

Mike Hammil and I have also discussed the length. Mike points out that there is a market for this level of luxury; however, he offers one of the broadest offerings in the industry, from slumming it in a tent and sleeping on the ground to your private dome tent complete with a 4-poster bed with comforter & pillows.

I agree, comparing his amenities to flying first class across the Atlantic. Once you do it, it’s hard to go to the back of the plane. So, while not for me, I like sleeping on the ground,  I can appreciate what Mike and others offer.

OK, back to what they are there in the first place – to climb Mount Everest.

Last Week – Icefall Reaches Camp 1

Paul Adler of Australia, who summited Everest in 2007, is back with his daughter. He told me that from EBC, they see drones ferrying ropes and ladders to Camp 1. He also reports that EBC feels quiet since climbers are still on their treks or acclimatizing on the trekking peaks.

Kami Rita Sherpa, who holds the Everest summit record with 30, is back this year as the sidar for the Army Adventure Wing Everest Expedition led by Col. Manoj Joshi.

The Icefall Doctors completed the fixed ropes to the top of the Khumbu Icefall and will soon reach Camp 2 at the base of the Lhotse Face, if they haven;t already. They posted a few excellent videos and stills of their work on FB

This progress clears the way for Sherpas from all teams at EBC to begin ferrying tents, food, stoves, fuel, tables, and chairs to these upper camps. It will still be a week or more before we see the first members go up.

On the Tibet side, guide companies are busy building their base camps’ existing clients over the next 10 days. Remember that they drive heavy trucks to the Chinese Base Camp, so they have more luxury than in the south.

Other 8000ers

Annapurna Over

The last group from Seven Sumits Treks gave up their summit attempt due to heavy snow, which is ironic since the season started with abnormally dry conditions high on the peak. The Anna season ends with close to forty summits and two tragic Sherpa deaths.

Kangchenjunga Stagged

My good friend, Adrian Hayes, who summited K2 the same year I did, is on Kang and tells me, “Supplies are being ferried from Tapetok to Tserum, where I arrived yesterday, and on to BC. Expect we’ll fly up to BC in the next couple of days.

Next Week

Before a team begins serious climbing, the Sherpa holds a Puja ceremony. This is when a Lama comes to EBC from a local village and prays to the mountain gods for permission to set foot on the peak, forgiveness for hurting the mountains with sharp points like crampons and ice axes, and the safety of the climbers. It’s a solemn event that is executed with a light heart. Several teams have already had their Puja, like Climbing the Seven Summits.

This narrative is from Virtual Everest 2020 – Support the Climbing Sherpas, a joint project of Alan Arnette and several global guide companies. Our objective was to entertain Everest fans during the Coronavirus spring closure and raise money to help the Climbing Sherpas who were not working this spring. While there will be accurate historical references, this series is a work of fiction. Names, characters, and incidents either were products of my imagination or were used fictitiously. Any resemblance to actual events, locales, or persons, living or dead, is entirely coincidental. The use of pronouns, descriptions and expressions instead of names is intentional.

The Puja at Base Camp

“Tomorrow, we will have our Puja. Bring your harness, crampons, ice axes and anything sharp to the ceremony.” Guide announced over a dinner of lamb, rice and tomato soup. Old Man stood up. Everyone looked at him, not sure what to expect. “Last year, at our Puja, I was changed. I was skeptical of these types of ceremonies, here and back home, but seeing the seriousness the Climbing Sherpas took the Puja caused me to look at them differently. With even more respect, with more admiration. So, if you don’t want to participate, that’s OK. It’s really for the Sherpas, but they welcome us to join.”

Breakfast came early, as the cooks and Sherpas were anxious to start the ceremony. The Sherpas had spent the previous day collecting large, flattish stones to build the rock altar. It was back-breaking work, but they smiled and laughed as they worked. The stone Stupa is used primarily to hold the flag pole and several revered pictures, including one of the Dali Lama. Blankets were laid out for the climbers to sit on during the long ceremony.

Ceremonies mark life. Many occur with the birth of a child, the union of a couple, or upon death. Today’s ceremony was to climb a mountain, but as with all ceremonies, it meant much more to those involved.

The Puja is a traditional ceremony led by a Lama. The Lama asks the Mountain Gods for permission for the climbers to climb, forgiveness for the damage caused by the climbing, and safety for all involved. All the Sherpas, climbers, cooks—anyone associated with the climb—are invited to participate or observe.

The morning was warm and bright, much different from the past few days. Over breakfast, the team smelled smoldering juniper boughs that enveloped the camp. As it came time for the beginning of the ceremony, the Sherpas moved with an air of excitement and purpose. The team moved to the highest point in the camp, where the Sherpas built a large rock altar.

The couple left their tents and walked towards the altar. “Oh, I forgot my harness,” Boyfriend said. “Yeah, I forgot my ice axe, will you get it for me,” Girlfriend added. They were looking forward to the Puja, never having attended one. They had spent hours on the trek talking with Dawa. He explained some of his Buddhist beliefs and traditions. He respected other people’s beliefs and never tried to change them, nor did he try to convert someone to Buddhism. The couple agreed later that the time with Dawa opened their eyes to a different culture and how they practiced their life.

“Got ’em.” Boyfriend said, catching up with his mate. The climbing harnesses were to be blessed for safety, and the ice axes and crampons for forgiveness for the holes the climbers would put in the mountain snow and ice. Snorer and the two new climbers who had taken a different trek to EBC brought pictures of their families and placed them on the altar. They planned to leave them on the summit.

The Lama sat on three blankets to the far left of the altar and had another wrapped around his legs. He was Mingma Dorge Sherpa, a Lama from Pangyboche who had been conducting pujas for years. To his right sat several Sherpas who assisted with the Puja. The Lama had a pair of small cymbals that he clanged throughout the ceremony, as did a Sherpa with a small drum. The constant accompaniment of music perfectly matched the chanting.

The Lama began the Puja by reading from 300-year-old Tibetan prayer books. The Sherpas joined in, chanting in unison. The climbers sat in rows behind the Lama and Sherpas while everyone else mingled around. The ceremony had a serious tone, but it was not terminally so. Camera shutters and video cams were in full action, trying to capture the moment.

Dutch sat quietly, his socked feet on top of his thighs, his hands placed in his lap. He closed his eyes and let the smell of the juniper and the sound of the chanting soak into his essence. He had never felt this way. All of his senses were alive, stimulated, and very much at peace.

Sherpas walked the area, serving everyone milk tea and a sweet concoction of sugar, milk, and tea. The Lama and his Sherpas drank milk tea and chang, a potent rice wine. The night before, with help from the team cooks, the Lama prepared the food, including baking and creating food sculptures. Trays of cookies, breads, and other sweets sat by the altar.

The prayers went on for two hours. Once completed, the Sherpas jumped into action. Two took the eight-foot-long pine tree trunk, the puja pole, and lifted it atop the altar. They dropped it in a crack at the altar top. Prayer flags had already been attached to the top. Then the other Sherpas took the end of the string of flags and went to multiple points around the camp so that each string fluttered over the tents. She watched in amazement at their precision, designed so that every tent had a flag over it. They were careful to treat the flags with reverence. Once the pole was up, a black Himalayan Chuff promptly flew over and perched on top – a sign of good luck.

The energy increased with more tea and chang filling everyone’s cups. Without coordination, but at the same time, the Lama and Sherpas by his side stood up as another series of chants began. Three series of low growls, “akalu,” meant “victory to the gods,” in other words, the Gods had granted their wishes for permission, forgiveness, and safety. At the end of the third growl, everyone threw rice in the air three times, an auspicious number of times, and began cheering.

As the enthusiasm picked up even more, Dawa grabbed a bowl of tsampa, roasted barley powder. He went from person to person—climbers, cooks, Guides, Sherpas, anyone around—and lathered their cheeks so they now looked white, symbolizing a white beard that comes with old age.

Then another Sherpa came by with a bottle of Johnnie Walker whisky. Each person held just the bottle cap, while the Sherpa, Mingma, this time, filled it up. He paused long with her, his Charge, careful, she did the ceremony correctly. As instructed, Snorer put one fingertip into the cap and threw the drops over his shoulder three times; then, he drank the rest. When offered, Loner shook his head no. The Sherpa smiled and moved on.

With the formal part of the Puja complete, the Sherpas started serving more drinks, beer, whisky, soda, water, and pastry that the Lama had cooked the night before. The Sherpas began to “Sherpa Dance,” a form of line dancing but with precise footwork. Old Man tried to join in but had trouble keeping up.

The couple stepped away from the group to observe. “You see how everyone is coming together,” Girlfriend said. This Puja was about the Sherpas, but they included everyone. They shared food, embraced one another in the line dance, smiled so easily, and laughed sincerely. Yet, there is a seriousness and conviction to their efforts that leaves the ceremony behind.”

I agree, Boyfriend said, adding, “These Sherpas are affirming their dedication to one another on yet another dangerous climb of the highest mountain on earth. In recent years, more Sherpas have died on Everest than non-Sherpas. They know this all too well. While this ceremony was certainly to honor and make a request of the mountain Gods, it was also to commit themselves to one another, to be there when needed, to support and be supported when the time came.”

Standing nearby, Guide joined the couple, “The Puja is a very important part of an expedition to me. It’s a Buddhist blessing, and for me, it’s always important to respect the culture of the place I am visiting. At first, I did it mainly for the locals. Now I feel I really want to do it for myself. I hope this will provide us with good luck! We will see!”

Nepal Permit Update

There is no update this week on the permit numbers. Across fifteen of Nepal’s climbing peaks, through April 9, 2025, the Ministry of Tourism collected USD 1.8 million in royalties, with Everest accounting for USD 1.47 million. This is the 2025 tally for the 8000ers:

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Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Here’s the Podcast of this Weekend Update

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

You can listen to #everest2025 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Previous Everest 2025 Season Coverage Posts

• Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 20–Base Camp Sprawl
• Everest 2025: April 18, A Day to Remember
• Annapurna 2025: Podcast with John Black on Sherpa Deaths
• Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 11
• Annapurna 2025: Summit and Missing Sherpas
• Everest 2025: Weekend Update April 6
• Annapurna 2025: Risky Decisions – April 5 Update
• Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 30
• Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 23
• Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage – an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season
• Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition – A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database
• Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition – A detailed look at Everest’s routes, commercial, standard and non-standard
• How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition – My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest solo, unsupported, and guided

Why this coverage?

I like to use these weekend updates to remind my readers that I’m just one guy who loves climbing. With 38 serious climbing expeditions, including four Everest trips and a summit in 2011, I use my site to share those experiences, demystify Everest each year, and bring awareness to Alzheimer’s Disease. My mom, Ida Arnette, died from this disease in 2009, as have four of my aunts. It was a heartbreaking experience that I hope no other family will go through; thus, I asked for donations to non-profits, which 100% go to them and never to me.

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