K2 2025: Coverage: Death, Summits and Progress

K2 – Climbing and Death

Iftikhar Hussain from Sadpara in Skardu died on Friday from a rockfall and an avalanche. He supported the US-based Mountain Professional team and was with Dawa Finjo Sherpa and Dawa Geljen Sherpa from Nepal and high-altitude porter Niaz Ali from Skardu. Finjo was injured and helicoptered to Skardu for treatment. source

Nepali operators Seven Summits Treks, Elete Expeditions, and 8K Expeditions are climbing K2 this year. Multiple Pakistani guides, including Summit Karakorum, Karakorum Expeditions and Masherbrum Expeditions, are also involved. Madison Mountaineering and Mountain Professionals may be the only Western teams there.

Terray Sylvester is leading the Madison Mountaineering trip. Popular US climber Ryan Mitchell is at K2 Base Camp, reporting that all is well. They attempted a peak near K2 base camp, turning around at 20,400 feet, thus eliminating a rotation on K2. It appears their next push will be for the summit.  He sent me this update today:

Possibly looking at the 29th for summit day, but will see. Maybe 30th, winds seem less around then.

And the Other 8000ers

While K2 gets disproportionate attention, the other four deserve equal coverage. The Nepali outfit Seven Summits Treks, aka SST, has commercialized all fourteen of the 8000ers and usually does the route finding and rope fixing. This season, at least on K2, all the teams are participating in the rope fixing given the dangers.

Gasherbrum I – Summits!

Four teams, three Nepali and one Pakistani, summited the more difficult Gasherbrum, GI, on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Together, there were over  13 summits.

Congratulations to Marco Confortola , Pasang Ngima Sherpa, and Lakpa Tasi Sherpa on your successful ascent of G1 (8,080 meters) this noon at around 11:50. Marco made the successful ascent without the use of supplemental oxygen. He is one of the senior mountain guides, having received the UIAGM/IFMGA International Alpine Guide certification in 1993.

Broad Peak – Acclimatizing at C3

My friend Ryan Kushner, who is climbing Broad this season, sent me this update:

Yeah, made it to camp 3. I don’t think ABC to C1 is that bad, but camp 2 to 3 is sketchy. We started at 3 am to avoid the avy slopes. Spending the night here, then going down to Base Camp to wait for the weather window we hope is between July 26 and July 29. You won’t believe this, but crows are doing damage to tents in camp 2, including mine, which is shortening our food supply. There is some avalanche danger between ABC and 1, but it’s mostly to the left of the way we go up. Also, it’s a river in that section where the fixed lines are. I’m far more worried about rockfall and ice in that section.

And from Polish climber Łukasz Supergan:

Last night and this morning, I moved my equipment and tent to Camp 3 on Broad Peak. I have reached an altitude of 7000 metres, and this is the final acclimatisation rotation on the mountain. At dawn, I will begin my descent to base camp. The forecast suggests a few days of bad weather, after which there is a chance of a summit window around 27–30 July.

This is my highest bivouac ever — it’s sort of like carrying a dozen kilos and pitching a tent on top of Khan Tengri. The long acclimatisation period makes me feel pretty good. In a week or so, this place will be my starting point for the summit.

Nanga Parbat – Over?

Nanga is more southern and western than Pakistan’s four other 8000ers. It’s in the Himalayas, whereas the other Pakistani giants lie in the Karakoram. NP usually sees the first summit yearly; this season was no exception. It appears the season is over and closes on NP with at least 24 summits, including climbers from Russia, Pakistan (5), the Czech Republic, Poland, Germany, France, Nepali Sherpas, and unspecified Europeans.

Trekking Facilities Upgrade

Naila Kian, a Pakistani climber and guide company founder, shared exciting news that a medical station is now established at the Urdukas Camp. Additionally, in a separate announcement from the Alpine Club of Pakistan’s President, Irfan Arshad Khan, one is also located at Concordia.

One of the key differences between trekking in Nepal and in Pakistan is the lack of services and accommodations like teahouses, restaurants, and even rudimentary medical services. Therefore, this is a welcome advancement that will benefit both locals and visitors.

I’m honestly a bit teary seeing these photos of the new dispensary (free) at Urdukas Camp, along with the first aid training being given to high altitude guides for high-altitude-related issues. Real fulfillment comes from doing something meaningful for the community.

 

Since my first trek to Baltoro and K2 Base Camp, I’ve seen too many porters and climbers fall seriously ill or get injured: some permanently and some even lost their lives. With no proper medical support available, porters were lining up to ask psychologists and even someone like me for basic treatment. I always dreamed of setting up a semi-permanent free medical facility near K2.

 

When I shared the idea with General @irfan.arshad.khan , the new President of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, he supported it right away. Thanks to his help, two medical igloos were arranged through the Army, along with medical supplies from @naurang_foundation. He will also supply medicine on a monthly basis. He also helped to arrange first aid training for the nurse and high altitude guides at CMH Skardu. This couldn’t have happened without his support. Huge thanks to @pk.immi72 Imran Shigri for arranging transport for the igloos. I’ll be personally covering the nurse’s salary and ongoing running costs.

 

The nurse has now reached Urdukas, and we’re also working on establishing a similar dispensary at Concordia.I’m also planning to organise basic high-altitude training and English language course for our porters and guides. If you’re able to support or contribute in any way, please reach out. If you’re trekking through or happen to visit the facility, please take a photo and share your feedback. It means so much to see this dream becoming reality.

 

Big shout out to all the doctors who helped many of us on the mountains @naima.tshfn (Broadpeak foundation camp) @dr.ranahassan, @selivanovaf and many others

A round trip to K2 Base Camp was costing on average 26,000 USD. Now, the decades-old policy of sending two helicopters to Baltoro due to the area’s sensitivity has finally been changed. Only one helicopter is being sent for rescues, bringing the cost down to under 9900 USD on average , nearly one-third of what climbers were paying before. This will also help insurance companies as the approval process could take longer due to the high costs.

Climb On!
Alan
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