Everest just became more expensive and unattractive to some

On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal’s most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions designed to mitigate any negative press around the price increase. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has effectively used this strategy for years.

One proposed rule being marketed by Nepal guides and promoted throughout the press, Nepal and worldwide, is that all Everest permit applicants must have climbed a 7000-meter peak in Nepal. This rule has NOT yet been approved. You can follow its current status at this link, which is listed as “Discussion in Committee” as of September 3, 2025.

Permit Fee Increases

Himal Gautam, director of the Department of Tourism, which handles climbing permit issuance, announced an increase in the per-person royalty fee for foreigners climbing Everest via the Southeast Ridge route from $11,000 to $15,000 during the most popular season from March to May or Spring, effective September 1, 2025.

“It has officially taken effect from Monday, marking the start of the autumn season,” he told the Kathmandu Post.

Under new rules, the September to November or the Autumn season fee has risen from $5,500 to $7,500. Permits for December to February or Winter and during the summer monsoon, June–August, now cost $3,750 per climber, up from $2,750.

The spring permit for the standard route has doubled from Rs75,000 to Rs150,000 for Nepali climbers. Sherpas do not pay a permit fee.

Other peaks have also seen price hikes. During spring, the fee for mountains above 8,000 meters, like Annapurna I, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Kangchunga, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Lhotse, has increased from $1,800 to $3,000. In autumn, it went up from $900 to $1,500, and in winter and monsoon from $450 to $750.

History of Changes

Before 1980, Nepal issued only one permit in the Spring and another in the autumn to only one team each season. The permit fee was negotiated on a case-by-case basis; fees were roughly $3,000–$5,000 per expedition for foreign teams. From 1985 through 1990, the fees gradually increased but were still charged on an expedition basis, not per individual.

However, recognizing their gold mine, in 1990, they changed it to $70,000 per team of seven and $10,000 for each additional person up to a maximum of fifteen. That structure remained until 2015, when the per-person permit fee increased to $11,000, now $15,000 starting September 1, 2025, with no limits on team size.

On the Tibet side, China charges $15,800 for a four-person group as of 2020. These groups may choose an $18,000 “luxury” option, which includes five-star hotels in Lhasa and four-star accommodation along the drive to BC in 4×4 vehicles. 

This price includes transportation from the entry point in China (usually Lhasa or Zhangmu–Kodari) to the base camp, hotels, liaison officer, trash fee, five yaks in, and four yaks out per member. In addition, there is an extra charge of $200 per day per person for time spent in Lhasa. If you want to bring a Nepali Sherpa to climb with you in Tibet, budget an additional $4,500 for each Sherpa’s “work permit,” as required by the CTMA, plus a salary of $5,000.

Other “New Rules”

Along with the permit fee increase, Nepal now requires at least one Sherpa or guide for every two foreign climbers. 

There is zero specification as to the minimum training for the “guide,” such as attending an entry-level course on mountaineering at the Khumbu Climbing Center. With 300 to 400 members each season, this suggests Nepal has 150 to 200 trained “guides” ready to support the climbers.

For years, there has been a rule requiring each climber to hire a ‘guide,’ so this is not new and waters down the previous requirement of a one foreigner-to-guide ratio. Note that there are already more Sherpas than members climbing Everest. In 2024, of the 867 summits, 400 Sherpas summited in support of 300 members, a ratio of 1:1.5.

In February 2025, Narayan Prasad Regmi, director general of the Department of Tourism, was quoted in the Kathmandu Post, stating:

“We have made guides mandatory to ensure climbers’ safety, particularly on the 8,000ers. The solo climbing era on these peaks has ended, regardless of a climber’s experience. Whether alpine-style or expedition-style, from now on, no one can climb these mountains without a support guide.”

This is crushing news to true alpinists who prefer to climb solo like Jost Kobusch. However, this will likely be ignored or worked around like most Nepalese rules. Mingma Sherpa, managing director of Seven Summit Treks, likes the works program for local Sherpas but also sees it as more of a guideline than a rule, saying,

“If a professional climber hires a guide to comply with the rule, it doesn’t mean they can’t climb on their own.”

In other words, a climber can pay 7 Summits Treks for their guiding service but not use them. Once again, major headlines for a rule that has no teeth.

More Everest Rule PROPOSALS  from Nepal

The Kathmandu Post reported, on April 26, 2025, “According to the Integrated Tourism Bill registered in Nepal’s upper house of Parliament on April 18, 2025, any climber wishing to set foot on Everest must first have conquered a mountain over 7,000 metres.”

I don’t believe it will be passed, like the 1995/6 proposal to require a 6000-meter climb before Everest. Operators saw business cut in half and demanded it be rescinded, which it was. I don’t see anything different this time; however, I think it’s an excellent rule, similar to what China requires.

I hope they will accept ANY 7000-meter peak worldwide; if not, it will eliminate many popular peaks that are regularly climbed to prepare for an Everest climb, such as Denali, Aconcagua, Ojos del Salado, Ama Dablam, and Huascaran Sur. If the rule includes only Nepal 7000-meter peaks, the likely suspects will include Annapurna II, III, and IV (above 7555m), Baruntse (7129m), Himlung Himal (7126m), Pumori (7161m), Putha Hiunchuli (7134m) and Tilicho Peak (7134m).

Many of Nepal’s 72 7,000-7,999 m peaks that are open for climbing are very difficult and remote. Himlung Himal (7,126m), Baruntse (7,129m), and Putha Hiunchuli (Dhaulagiri VII, 7,246m) are regarded as some of the safest and easiest 7,000m peaks to climb.

Another disturbing suggestion is a provision to make it mandatory for the sirdar (head Sherpa), high-altitude guides, and helpers on every expedition to be all Nepali citizens. Does this prevent any foreigners from working as guides in Nepal?

This is a list of the latest batch of new rules, some of which were previously announced to take effect in September 2025. The bill is still in draft form and must be passed through debates in both Houses of Parliament. Officials at the Ministry of Tourism say changes are likely before the final law is signed. See the current status at this link.

• Everest permit fee to increase from $11,000 to $15,000 per foreigner (previously announced)
• 8000m climbers must have one guide for two climbers (previously announced)
• Under 8000m, climbers must have one guide for each team(previously announced)
• Must have climbed a 7000-meter peak in Nepal (NOT yet approved. See current status at this link)
• Only Nepalese citizens can work as expedition sirdar (head Sherpa), high-altitude guides, and helpers
• Climbers submit a certificate from a government-approved medical institution, issued within the past month
• Must also declare in advance if attempting a record.
• If the climb is disrupted by war, disaster, or events beyond their control, no refund, but a permit valid for two years or an adjusted fee for another peak.
• Dead body management insurance, in addition to existing policies for accidents, health, and search and rescue, lasts at least three months.
• The current $4,000 refundable garbage deposit will be replaced with a non-refundable garbage fee.
• Climbers must submit photographs and other evidence of their summit within three months of the summit.
• Nepali climbers found to be violating the law may be banned from climbing for 10 years, fined the equivalent of their climbing permit, or both.
• Search and rescue will be the legal responsibility of the travel and tour companies managing foreign climbers.
• If a climber is missing for more than a year and remains unfound, they will be declared legally dead.

I’ve been tracking these rule announcements for over ten years, and it’s fascinating to see repeats. Still, the common theme is that virtually none are ever enacted or enforced because of the instability of the Nepal government and the revolving door of Ministers who run the Ministry of Tourism. This eye chart shows the ones announced and often promoted by the mainstream press; however, virtually none were ever enforced. I have a red check by the ones I believe were implemented. One interesting “new rule” is the one that bans solo climbers. It was introduced in 2017, 2019, 2023 and 2025 and never enforced.

Click the chart to enlarge it.

The Other 97 Mountain Distraction

Nepal also announced the opening of 97 peaks between 5,870 and 7,132 meters (19,259-23,399 feet) with no permit fee for the next two years, as reported in the Himalayan Times. They are primarily in remote Western Nepal; many have never been climbed and are challenging to reach. They promoted it as a way to address the crowds on Everest. Still, many of the peaks will only attract a specialized climber style, not the heavily commercialized guides and customers that climb Everest, Ama Dablam, Humlung, and other popular peaks.

The “free” peaks have rarely been climbed, with only 21 teams (68 climbers) attempting them. Several are higher than 7000 meters, including Sudurpaschim’s 7,030-meter (23,064-foot) Saipal, 7,132-meter (23,399-foot) Api, and 7,076-meter (23,215-foot) Api West. The previous fees ranged from $200 to $500, so Nepal’s PR play cost them almost nothing but drives positive press.  

It kind of feels like someone offered you free penguins, but you have to get to Antarctica, catch them, and return home.

If Not This, Then What?

If Nepal were serious about improving safety, there are tangible steps it could take:

1. All climbers are required to have summited 6500 meters or higher anywhere before Everest permits are issued to them.
2. Require all “guides” to be IFMGA certified or at least have taken climbing, medical and rescue courses at the Khumbu Climbing Center taught by proven, qualified Everest guides
3. Require that every person climbing Everest carry a handheld radio
4. Each team monitors and writes down every climber’s (member and support) precise location when above base camp.
5. Establish a central monitoring team at Base Camp and Camp 2 to monitor emergency frequency.
6. Require RECCO bands for every Sherpa and foreigner, and outfit every helicopter used in SAR with a detector. (pilot programs underway)
7. Position trained search and rescue resources at Base Camp, Camp 2 and rotate at the South Col during summit pushes.
8. Limit foreign permits to 400 qualified members.
9. Limit team size to 25 members with 1:1 Sherpa support. BC Staff is additional.
10. Any operator with a client “missing” at the end of the season will be banned for one year.

Do I think any of these will ever happen? NO. There is too much money involved for Ministry Officials and operators to do anything that might reduce revenue and increase costs, even in the name of safety. But Nepal will continue to issue these so-called “safety improvements,” and the mainstream press will continue to help them in their PR campaign with little regard for the truth.