Autumn 2025: Nepal Unrest as Climbing Begins
The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
The Autumn Himalayan season is well underway with minimal impact from the violence and protest that occurred in mid-September in Kathmandu.
Ryan Mitchell, a Summit Coach client, is back from his recent K2 attempt. They were thwarted by a deadly rockfall that killed two other people on other teams.
They climbed to Camp 1 to see the conditions firsthand and abandoned their expedition. However, they climbed a previously unclimbed peak near K2 for acclimatization, so there was some solid mountaineering this year for the Madison Mountaineering team led by Terray Sylvester. They also collected 600 pounds of trash, primarily from the K2 Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp, which were exposed to unexpectedly dry and warm conditions.
In this podcast, we discuss the expedition, its risks, decision-making and emotions. Ryan is currently dropping a new YouTube episode almost daily on his channel, which provides his followers with a unique inside look at what K2 offered in 2025. #k2025
On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal’s most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions designed to mitigate any negative press around the price increase. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has effectively used this strategy for years.
One proposed rule being marketed by Nepal guides and promoted throughout the press, Nepal and worldwide, is that all Everest permit applicants must have climbed a 7000-meter peak in Nepal. This rule has NOT yet been approved. You can follow its current status at this link, which is listed as “Discussion in Committee” as of September 3, 2025.
The summer 2025 Karakorum for the 8000-meter peaks is over, and what a season it was. There were summits, deaths, disappointments and survivals. Was it a “successful” season? I’ll leave that judgment to others—but honestly, it often felt like safety took a back seat to ambition. #K2025
Summits:
K2- 42 with two deaths
Broad Peak: 0
Gashbrum II: 0
Gasherbrum I: 17
Nanga Parbat: 25 with one death
A tragic incident occurred involving one of Imagine Nepal’s clients. She was inadvertently struck by a rock between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp and sadly lost her life. She had successfully summited with Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal team on August 11. #K2025
August 11, 2025 – There were 32 reported K2 summits including by Imagine Nepal Team, Seven Summtis Treks and Prakash Sherpa’s Climber Alpinist Expeditions (CAE). Safe descents have not been confirmed. #K2025
With teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Sherpa, Terray Sylvester, Madison Mountaineering lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too dangerous to continue despite several teams already higher on the mountain, hoping to summit on August 11.
Only a few teams remain on the mountain, each with a few climbers, including a few independent ones foregoing supplemental oxygen and HAP/Sherpa support like Czech climbers Jan Polacek, Lenka Polackova, and Pakistani Sohail Sakhi. French climber Charles Page, guided by Vinajak Malla, was last reported at 7661 m/25,134 feet, higher than the elevation of traditional Camp 4 of 25,080’/7600m as of August 11, 2:00 a.m. local time per his Inreach.
Regardless of classification, they must work together to set the ropes, break the trail, and reach the summit. Then, they must descend, which might be one of the riskiest in recent history. Remaining teams include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, and Elete Expeditions. As of yesterday, the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. With Page’s report, they are obviously higher now as they are on their summit push. Teams expect to summit on Monday, August 11. #K2025
The unrelenting winds stalled most teams and sent more members home as time, supplies and motivation ran out. Most teams are not updating their social media, so information is difficult to come by. We now understand that the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, which would be around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. Teams are expecting to summit on Monday, August 11.
The upper mountain is reported to be in good condition, with the largest area of concern between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp, which has persistent rockfall. There are just a handful of teams left on the mountain, all with few climbers. They include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, Elete Expeditions and Madison Mountain Guides. #K2025
After almost five weeks, a weather window long enough for a summit attempt on K2 has emerged. Most teams and many individuals have left, but an estimated (very rough guess) that 20-30 total people, split equally between commercial and independent climbers, remain for the summit push starting today, August 5, 2025. #K2025
Pakistan’s Northern Territories are seeing climbers leave while trekkers enjoy stunning, rugged mountain vistas. It looks like the action is over on the two Gasherbrums and Broad Peak, with only GII seeing summits; however, climbers remain at K2 Base Camp, hoping for one last break and then a chance to summit. #K2025
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
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