Everest 2026: Climber Rescue Alert

I’ve been informed by the largest evacuation company, Global Rescue, that long-line rescues are unlikely to be available in the Himalayas this spring through their membership program. With an uncertain weather forecast, even though it is quite snowy at the moment on two of the 8000-meter peaks, the absence of this rescue technique could have serious life-or-death consequences. Climbers should exercise extra caution when above Camp 2 on the Nepal side of Everest and at similar elevations on all the 8000-meter peaks.

As of April 2, 2026, the Nepal Ministry of Tourism has issued 114 permits for 10 mountains, including 27 for Annapurna I, 18 for Everest, 20 for Ama Dablam and 7 for Dhaulagiri. Expect the Everest number to approach 500 over the next few weeks.

Risks Above Camp 2

According to Global Rescue’s spokesperson, Bill McIntyre, the core issue is the shortage of certified long-line helicopter pilots who meet Global Rescue’s high standards. There have been several helicopter crashes and fatalities in Nepal over the past year, and there aren’t enough long-line qualified pilots trained to appropriate standards in the country. Global Rescue utilizes Nepalese helicopter providers that meet or exceed international safety standards, and none currently have long-line capability, according to the company.

While helicopter evacuations for medical emergencies will remain available, anyone with a Global Rescue membership needing an evacuation must be in a location where a helicopter can land.  This means that climbers above Camp 2 must either reach Camp 2 or descend to receive helicopter support. As for other insurance/evacuation companies, it’s best to check what their policies are before signing up.

Global Rescue has stated they will update the climbing community if/when long-line availability in the country changes.

A Team Effort

Snowy Season?

Meanwhile, reports of heavy snowfall are coming in from Dhaulagiri and Annapurna. Charles Page reported: “Annapurna is just different. Every step commands respect. We pushed to Camp 2 in fierce winds on our first rotation. Now back safe in Base Camp. resting… waiting… for the next move higher.”

I received this message from Paul, aka Outdoorpirate, on IG,

Everyone’s made it to C2; there are now 15 of us here. Beautiful conditions between camps, very hot on the glacier, but easy walking. The rope-fixing team has reached lower camp 3 and will properly open C3 tomorrow.

along with this video (see his IG page), looking up from Camp 1. He also has an entertaining YouTube channel.

Elete noted on Facebook:

Over in Pakistan, it will be interesting to see the climbing conditions on their five 8000-meter peaks this summer. They are experiencing heavy rain and snowfall, according to this report in Propakistani:

In Diamer and other areas of Gilgit-Baltistan, intermittent rainfall has continued since yesterday. Snowfall has been reported at high-altitude locations, including Babusar Top, Batoga Top, and Nanga Parbat, intensifying the cold weather conditions in the region.

Ryan Update

Ryan Mitchell and Justin Sackett continue to acclimatize for their no Os Everest/Lhotse attempt. They just summited Lobuche East, a standard protocol for almost all Everest climbers these days. Ryan posted:

Perfect weather and fresh snow made for a beautiful summit day on Lobuche. So psyched to finally be up high in the alpine after a couple of weeks of trekking. The higher you go, the more the mountains multiply on the horizon. The Himalaya seems endless.