Success on Capital Peak

4 thoughts on “Success on Capital Peak”

1. im currently working on good judgement calls when it comes to climbing trad or alpine situations.i like what Royal Robins says in simpel form.falls occure from 2 things poor judgement and gear failer.thats for trad climbers but this also goes for alpine climbing.turning back is one of my best freinds.i found my self high on a very steep scree gully i handeled it well but i didnt want to be in the situation i was in any more.being that some ground is more dangerous going down i knew full well that going down would result in a rock slide.so here i learned first hand what good judgement really means to me.you said it very well and simple Alan.I tend to agree that after all is said and done I just simply want to go home.as for the doing a no hands across capitals knife edge that person really could have better judgement it only takes one time to fall and many more to not!! thanks Alan im learning more and more of what i need to to be compitant and safe so i can keep to my mothers 2 rules she gave me,be safe and have fun.if you break rule #2 see rule #1. climbing on J.B.C.

2. Hey Jason,

   It is not as bad as it looks – lots of hand and foot holds but I really wouldn’t want to fall. My have looked shaky but actually felt pretty good. I saw a video of some guy walking across with no handholds – now that’s crazy!

   Alan

3. heres a comment for Alan not a big letter sorry.simple account of climb leaves alot of room for Qs but the shakey feet in video says alot to my nerves so prepare for mega exposure is a key description trade your old nerves in for new ones get prepared at the edge of black canyon by just simply looking over the edge and once you find some steel nerves dont let them fad climb on!!

4. hey Alan!!awsome video.my 1st visit to 14ers.com was your account of climbing capital.I was curios bout all the fuss of this famed and feared knife edge.i live in crawford co. black canyon and west elks are my play ground.im a begginer at trad climbing after a week trip to joshua tree.love it by all means.i go to the black for solo class 4 type hiking/climbing at the rim just to the west of grizzly gulch. if you fall it would be ugly or worse.so exposure to drop offs do get me pumped but if my diet is steady im ok.so how much exposure does this feared knife edge have shatter nerves or testing them.my older bro and i are climbing colo 14ers.1st up is sneffeles 1 more easy peak weather permiting.my brother has no exp. so will get him up to speed before harder climbes next year.thanks for up dates on himala.season.great to hear stories on great climbes you seemed just alittle shakey in your feet in the video the exp. must be unnerving.please reply w/comments regarding knife edge all comments are welcome thanks cookieclimber aka Jason Bradford Cook

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