Annapurna 2025: Risky Decisions – April 7 Update: Summits and Missing Sherpas

According to long-time Sherpa climbers, Annanupurna is experiencing some of the worst conditions ever. After an abnormally dry winter, the lower mountain, usually snow-covered, is bone dry, and the upper mountain is hard-packed, blue ice. Climbers are not using their mountaineering boots or crampons to reach Camp 1.

Also, large, wide, and deep open crevasses pose problems. Then, in a twist, heavy snowfall is predicted in a few days, forcing teams to either rush or delay their summit plans. The fixed ropes are only to Camp 3, and it’s been deemed that the traditional Camp 4, from which all summit pushes began, should not be put up. This will make for an extraordinary long summit push.

It will be interesting to see how the dry winter impacted Everest and Lhotse this year. I expect a similar dry climbing scenario.
#annapurna2025. #everest2025

Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 30

Early data suggest Everest will see a record year, primarily driven by Chinese and Indian clients. I won’t be surprised to see over 1,000 total summits from both sides. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. Sherpas are setting up Base Camp, which is starting to look like a small city.

The Himalayan winter was warm and dry, causing the snow line on Everest to move higher and increasing the chances of rockfall. Climbers need to be very aware and stay safe this season. #everest2025

Everest 2025: Weekend Update March 23

This is the Weekend Update for Everest 2025. The season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home. In many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to begin the arduous process of establishing a home for over 1,000 people this spring season. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. #everest2025

Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage

Everest Southeast Ridge Route Map. Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2025 coverage! 2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.

I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on it three other times (all from Nepal) – 2002, 2003, and 2008, each time reaching just below the Balcony around 27,500′ (8400 meters) before health, weather or my judgment caused me to turn back.

I attempted Lhotse in 2015 and 2016. When not climbing, I cover the Everest season from my home in Colorado as I did in  2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2024 and now the 2025 season. In 2020, when both sides of the mountain were closed due to COVID, I did a virtual series, Virtual Everest 2020 – Support the Climbing Sherpas, to raise money for the out-of-work Sherpa community working with nine commercial guiding companies.

If you are one of my millions of regular readers, hello again; if you are new, welcome! I aim to provide insight and analyze the activity without favorites or agendas. I write my posts using sources from the mountain, public information, and my experiences.

I often post as the season starts in early April and ramps up during the intense summit pushes in mid-to-late May. I spend several hours a day creating these updates. You can sign up for (and cancel) email notifications on the lower right sidebar or check the site frequently.

As of this post, the Icefall Doctors have arrived at Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side to begin setting the fixed lines from EBC to Camp 2. After that, one of the commercial teams, 8K Expeditions, will fix the route to the summit, opening it to all climbers on the mountain. The Tibet side usually lags behind Nepal, with teams arriving later. The climb on that side is slightly shorter due to higher camps.

The climbing headline is we can expect a couple of interesting climbs, like speed climbs or using Nobel gases to shorten the expedition length. Also, more experiments with oxygen delivery systems might be conducted, such as using a nasal cannula or a lightweight tube with prongs that fit inside the nostrils instead of a full face mask, especially while sleeping above Camp 2 or the North Col. Overall, 99% of activity will be traditional commercial teams guide clients on the two commercial routes.

The financial headline for 2025 is that prices continue to increase for all Western and some Nepali operators on the Nepal side and stay flat or slightly lower for most Tibetan-side operators. The increases are due to inflation, labor wage increases, higher pay for Sherpas with IFMGA certification, more Nepalese regulations around minimum salaries and insurance, and a strong client demand environment.

#everest2025

Everest 2025: Nepal New Rules- Some Good, Some Not

Simrik Air RECCO

In an admirable effort to reduce deaths and save lives on Everest, the Nepal government has implemented two additional rules for the upcoming 2025 Spring season. One is a great idea, but the other is not so great. However, the efforts still lag the magnitude of the problems.

Instead of enacting rules to minimize missing climbers and deaths, Nepal adds regulations to aid in body recovery. This is analogous to having a busy traffic intersection where countless crashes occur. The city decided the best action would be to pre-place ambulances and tow trucks instead of enhancing traffic signals.

Remember that 23 of the 26 Everest deaths in 2023 and 2024 were climbing, with companies charging less than the median price. Four of the 26 deaths were classified as “missing” by the Himalayan Database. All were between 8334 and 8848 meters.

Why do I continue to write about this? Please continue reading to see the impact on one family whose grief could have been slightly reduced through more transparent communications and legitimate regulations. #everest2025

Podcast with Jost Kobusch’s Winter 2024/25 Everest West Ridge Record Climb

Jost Kobush on Winter 2019 Everest

German Alpinist Jost Kobusch is back home after accomplishing his objective of a winter, solo, no-O’s climb to tag over 7500 meters on Everest’s West Ridge. In this podcast, we go into deep detail on his climb. If you are a climber, explorer or sour on the entire Everest scene, this is for you. #everest2025

How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest? – 2025 Edition

This post goes in-depth on your options and risks and provides an overview of the financial aspects of climbing Everest from either Nepal or Tibet. As we get closer to Everest 2025, I’ve updated my annual post, “How Much Does It Cost to Climb Mount Everest?” As I’ve said for years, the short answer is a car. Most people pay between $40,000 and $60,000, and some will pay as much as $200,000! Operators now compete either on price or luxuries and technologies. #everest2025

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2025 edition

Everest Routes

This another BIg Picture post before my annual coverage of Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I’ll be posting several updates before the season officially begins in early April:

– Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition – A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database (posted December 16, 2024)
– Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition – A detailed look at Everest’s commercial, standard and non-standard routes. (posted December 19, 2024)
– How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition – My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest, solo, unsupported and guided.
– Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage – an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season.

2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.

This is an updated post of my annual “Comparing the Routes of Everest ” blog post. For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes is the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For today’s commercial clients, all other routes are too dangerous, complicated, and not commercially guided. This post will examine the various routes and explore the most popular commercial through 2024.

Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer’s. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on the button, which is always at the top right sidebar. #everest2025

Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition

Everest summits thru 2024

Welcome to Everest 2025. The season is still a few months away, and I’ll be posting several Everest 2025 big-picture updates before the season officially begin in early April:

– Everest by the Numbers: 2025 Edition – A deep dive into Everest statistics as compiled by the Himalayan Database
– Comparing the Routes of Everest: 2025 Edition – A detailed look at Everest’s routes, commercial, standard and non-standard.
– How Much Does it Cost to Climb Everest: 2025 Edition – My annual review of what it costs to climb Everest, solo, unsupported and guided.
– Everest 2025: Welcome to Everest 2025 Coverage – an introduction to the Everest 2025 Spring season.

2025 will be my 25th season of all things Everest: 19 times providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.

I’ve updated my annual “Everest by the Numbers” blog post. I looked at summit and death rates, the use of oxygen and its impact on summits and deaths, and disturbing trends like the increasing support for climb. I hope this is useful for everyone.

Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer’s. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on this button, which is always at the top right sidebar. #everest2025