Everest 2022: Teams Arrive at Everest Base Camp

Right on schedule, several teams have arrived at Everest Base Camp. It will be their home until late May, for most, or a few days after they reach the summit. The majority of Everest summits occur between May 18th and 23rd. There is a lot of climbing left on the ‘other’ 8000ers.

Big Picture

The permits issuance continue to pick up. As of April 13, 2022, Nepal had issued 250 permits for 31 teams on Everest. I’m still expecting the final number to be under 300.  As for countries on Everest, The US continues to have the most climbers with 58, followed by the UK at 33, India-21, Russia-16, Canada-14, Nepal (non-Sherpas) with 14, and Australia at 10. For all of Nepal mountains requiring permits, 689 foreigners have received one. See the table at the end of this post for details.

There is still a lot of climbing on the ‘other’ 800ers, with Annapurna, Makalu, Lhotse and Lhotse South Face, and Kangchenjunga. Look for summits on most of these over the next few weeks and the serious acclimatization rotations to begin on Everest around April 17. #everest2022

Everest 2022: First Death on an 8000er this season – Update

Tragic death after summiting occurred on the 8000er,  Dhaulagiri. Highly experienced Greek climber Antonis Sykaris is reported to have died after summiting around 7,400m on the 8,167 meters (26,795 ft) peak. Sykaris was 59-years-old. He was climbing with Dawa Sherpa using the logistics of Seven Summits Treks and summited at 12:40 pm local time. Just this past weekend 22 people summited as I previously reported. Sykaris was on a mission to submit all 14 of the 8000ers.

Everest 2022: Weekend Update April 10 – First 8000er Summits

Activity is picking up with climbers getting closer to Everest Base Camp plus many more have arrived in Kathmandu. The permits have increased as expected this past week but still lag behind last year. The fixed lines are now to Camp 2 in the Western Cwm. Teams will arrive at EBC this week. We saw the first 8000er summits of the 2022 Spring season this past week.

Everest 2022: Interview with Garrett Madison from Namche Bazaar

The #Everest2022 season is taking shape as teams continue to receive climbing permits and others are well on their way to Everest Base Camp. The first 8000er summits are expected soon.

Big Picture

There has been an expected surge in new permits for Everest, now at 200 including 46 female climbers. The United States represents the largest country on Everest this year with 49 climbers, a spot recently ceded to India and China which only have 15 and 9 climbers respectively. The UK comes in at 25 with Canada at 11 and Australia at 10 thus far. Russia has 14 climbers on Everest this season.

Everest 2022: The Moments I First Considered Climbing Everest, and Your’s?

Alan on the summit of Ama Dablam October 26, 2000

Teams continue to arrive in Kathmandu from afar. Many are proudly posting pictures of receiving their Everest climbing permits, but as of today, the pace is way off what we saw only a few years ago or even last year. In this post, I talk about the first time I thought about climbing Everest, back in 2002.

Big Picture

By early April 2021 Nepal had issued 222 permits for 23 teams, but this year that number is 138 on 16 teams.  It looks like Everest will get somewhat of a respite this season with less than 300 foreign climbers. And that is good news for the mountain but bad news for Nepal tourism.  We are seeing a lot of pictures of the trek, most feature Ama Dablam – perhaps one of the most recognizable mountains on earth since almost every climber and trekker takes a few hundred each year – not kidding! I have hundreds myself!! But Ama is a special peak for me as it was on her summit that I first considered climbing Everest.  #everest2022

Everest 2022: Climbers to Watch – Updated

Each year on Everest, a few climbers try to stand out from the crowd. Their motivations range from deeply personal to seeking fame and fortune. Regardless, they offer something different for followers than the usual climb, which is sad on some level.

I’ve always felt that if you are qualified and have earned the right to be on Everest, you should be applauded, regardless of your result. No matter what you read, Everest is not a walk-up; it hard, and people die. With that, let’s look at a few climbers with unique stories. #everest2022

Everest 2022: Weekend Update March 22 – And We’re Off!

The Everest 2022 season is about to get started in earnest. Climber after climber and team after team are leaving home. In many cases, scores of Sherpas are on their way to Everest Base Camp to begin the arduous process of establishing a home for over 500 people this spring season. The Icefall Doctors are already at work. #everest2022

Everest 2022: Leaving Nothing Unsaid

Leaving home to climb Mt. Everest is no simple task. It’s not a business trip; it’s not a vacation; it’s something entirely different. While it may be your dream, it can be something altogether different for those left behind. As we approach the end of March, scores of climbers are going through this process for Everest 2022.

It’s time for Everest climbers to get focused and serious about the last-minute preparations. Since their dream began, they wondered how this period would feel. They saved money, bought the gear, and trained their bodies for months or even years, but a few crucial steps remain before boarding that plane for Kathmandu.

A longtime reader and climber preparing for Everest sent me this question last week: “How do you keep sleeping and maintain mental focus 20 days before leaving for Everest without stressing yourself out?’ My answer was:

Focus on “leaving nothing unsaid” with those who matter most in your life. Visualize being on the mountain with a positive outcome, review your gear using a mental walk-thru of the climb to ensure you have everything you need and want. Finally, surround yourself with positive people who have fun, laugh, and support you.

For this last step of prep, let’s take a closer look at three areas: Physical, Mental, and Emotional. #everest2022

Everest 2022: A look at This Spring’s 8000ers

Icefall Doctors on Everest

While Everest gets a lot of attention each spring season, Nepal has seven other 8000-meter peaks that deserve coverage. In some cases, they are more interesting from a pure climbing perspective than the Big E, Makalu, for example.

Big Picture

Climbers are streaming into Kathmandu’s Tribhuvan International Airport from all over the world. Many are trekking, not climbing, but most climbers will attempt Everest.

Of the fourteen peaks higher than 26,000-feet or 8,000-meters, seven are entirely in Nepal or straddle the border with either India or Tibet: Cho Oyu, Annapurna, Manaslu, Dhaulagiri, Makalu, Lhotse, and Kanchenjunga. Of the remaining giants, five are in Pakistan: K2, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum, and Gasherbrum II, while Shishapangma stands alone with the Tibetan borders.

China has closed Tibet to foreigners for the third straight year due to COVID, and the climbing season in Pakistan usually, but not always, starts in June; thus, Nepal has the focus for now.

#everest2022