Tag: Climbing News

Welcome to my ongoing Everest 2026 coverage! 2026 marks my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition is an exhaustive review of data and statistics around Everest mountaineering. #everest2026

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me.

I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain three other times (all from the Nepalese side): 2002, 2003, and 2008. On these attempts, I reached just below the Balcony around 27,500 feet (8400 meters) before health, weather, or my judgment caused me to turn back. I also attempted Lhotse in 2015 and 2016.

Although the climbing season is still a few months away, I’ll publish several big-picture articles before activity ramps up in early April. Once the season begins in early April, updates become more frequent and intensify during the summit pushes of mid-to-late May. You can sign up for (or cancel) email notifications in the lower-right sidebar, or simply check the site regularly. #everest2026

Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to touch on Everest.

The 8000er season is chiefly over, and the true winter climbs have yet to begin in earnest. But soon, we will have activity in Antarctica with adventurers attempting full crossings, climbers going for Vinson, Tyree and maybe an unclimbed peak or two. Then, as we move towards the new year, the slopes of Acocnagua become busy with a new group of aspirants wanting to test themselves at 7,000 meters, perhaps for training for an upcoming Everest climb.

In this Podcast, I briefly review the 2025 year in mountaineering and share my thoughts on a “Climber’s Holiday Season.” #everest2026

Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest summit. These articles seem to confuse a new route with an old trekking route reopened, and may not have thoroughly fact-checked some of the performance claims. 

While the overall press is limited and has not gone mainstream, the facts are not as simple as “new summit route.”  I believe commercial operators will rarely use the route on Nuptse’s flanks to bypass the Icefall, as it is too difficult for today’s average Everest climber. Still, it may be used by a few who have the skills and desire to avoid the Icefall.

Let’s take a look at the proposed new route, its history, then fact-check some of the claims, including that the Icefall is the most dangerous section when climbing Everest, and finally, a look at what today’s climbers can do if they have Icefall concerns. #everest2026