K2 2025 Coverage: Risk Taking Case Study – Update 1

K2 Summit 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

With teams still hoping to summit, popular American climber Ryan Mitchell, Phurba Sherpa, Terray Sylvester, ⁠Madison Mountaineering⁠ lead guide, and several other Sherpas ended their expedition after climbing to Camp 1. Terray felt the rockfall was too dangerous to continue despite several teams already higher on the mountain, hoping to summit on August 11.

Only a few teams remain on the mountain, each with a few climbers, including a few independent ones foregoing supplemental oxygen and HAP/Sherpa support like Czech climbers ⁠Jan Polacek⁠, ⁠Lenka Polackova⁠, and Pakistani ⁠Sohail Sakhi⁠. French climber ⁠Charles Page⁠, guided by Vinajak Malla, was last reported at 7661 m/25,134 feet, higher than the elevation of traditional Camp 4 of 25,080’/7600m as of August 11, 2:00 a.m. local time per his ⁠Inreach⁠.

Regardless of classification, they must work together to set the ropes, break the trail, and reach the summit. Then, they must descend, which might be one of the riskiest in recent history. Remaining teams include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, and Elete Expeditions. As of yesterday, the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. With Page’s report, they are obviously higher now as they are on their summit push. Teams expect to summit on Monday, August 11. #K2025

K2 2025 Coverage: Slow K2 Summit Progress But Optimism Prevails – Update 1

Approaching the Bottleneck Above K2 C4 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

The unrelenting winds stalled most teams and sent more members home as time, supplies and motivation ran out. Most teams are not updating their social media, so information is difficult to come by. We now understand that the fixed ropes are 200 meters above Camp 3, which would be around 7400 meters or 24,300 feet. Teams are expecting to summit on Monday, August 11.

The upper mountain is reported to be in good condition, with the largest area of concern between Camp 1 and Advanced Base Camp, which has persistent rockfall. There are just a handful of teams left on the mountain, all with few climbers. They include Seven Summits Treks, Imagine Nepal, Elete Expeditions and Madison Mountain Guides. #K2025

K2 2025 Coverage: Another Windy Monday, More teams drops out.

k2 puja

The winds continue across the Northern Territories, now hitting the Gasherbrums. One team stopped their summit attempt on GII, citing poor conditions above C3, while another gave up on Broad Peak. For those remaining on K2 and BP, they’re constantly glancing at their watches, calendars, and the summit. Tick, tock-time is running out.

They can only hope for a three-day window of low winds. Then, only the strongest will be able to climb that fast, break through the deep snow and fix the lines—a tall order for any team or individual. Popular US climber Ryan Mitchell is at K2 Base Camp and texted me, “Forecasts not looking good for winds.”
#K2025

K2 2025 Coverage: Weather Stalls Plans, Or Not?

K2 Plume WInter 2020:21. Courtesy of Noel Hanna

Signs of trouble on K2 and Broad Peak. First is the weather. There have been more high winds and heavy snowfall, preventing the establishment of Camp 3 on K2 and keeping the Broad Peak climbers below Camp 3. And the other concern is the lack of cooperation among the teams, as noted by Polish climber, Lukas Supergan: “… This could be achieved by a large, combined team from agencies and independent climbers working together. However, such cooperation is completely lacking. Leaders keep their plans secret.” #K2025

K2 2025: Coverage: Death, Summits and Progress

Medical Station at Urdukas Camp

Summits! We have summits in the Karakoram on Sunday, July 20, 2025. Also, climbers are acclimatizing at Camp 3 on BP, and most teams seem focused on an upcoming summit window around the end of July. Conditions are finally improving in the Karakoram after days of high temperatures, winds, and even snow and rain. One issue is that crows are eating food left at high camps! Tragically, one climber died last week on K2 from rockfall. Also, improvements are made for locals and visitors trekking the Baltoro Glacier. #K2025

K2 2025: Coverage: Death Reported on K2 – Update 2

K2- climbing between ABC and C1

 I’m receiving reports from multiple sources on Broad Peak and K2 that a Pakistani High-Altitude Porter (HAP) has unfortunately lost their life in an avalanche or rockfall occurring between Advanced Base Camp and Camp 1 on K2. Although the individual was clipped into the fixed rope, it appears the rope was cut during the slide. Heavy rain has been reported at base camp, transitioning into heavy snowfall higher up the mountain. #K2025

K2 2025: Coverage: Climbing in Peril – Updated

Climbing the Black Pyramid on K2

Teams are finally making progress across the four northernmost 8000-meter peaks: K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II. Multiple teams report reaching as high as Camp 2 on these peaks, thus setting an optimistic tone for summits this season.

Although rockfall remains a clear and present danger, leaders are feeling a bit more comfortable after recent snowfalls. However, climbers still need to be smart and cautious about avalanche danger, as shown by the rescue of a stranded and injured Polish climber today. Today, I discussed the conditions with Garrett Madison, the founder of Madison Mountaineering, who has a team on K2.
#K2025

K2 2025: Coverage: Injured Climber on Broad Peak – Updated

The route up Broad Peak. Courtesy of polishwinterhimalaism.pl.

Finally, a bit of snow fell on  Karakorum’s high mountains; however, the good came with the bad. On Broad Peak, an avalanche between Camps 2 and 3 injured a Polish climber. K2 climbers prepare to go up, but are wary of rockfall. News is sparse from all the Pakistani 8000-meter peaks.

Northern Pakistan recorded some of its highest temperatures ever on July 5, 2025, with Gilgit-Baltistan’s Chilas district reaching 48.5°C (119.3°F), breaking a 28-year-old record, according to the Meteorological Department. #K2025