Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
Welcome to my ongoing Everest 2026 coverage! 2026 marks my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me. Everest by the Numbers: 2026 Edition is an exhaustive review of data and statistics around Everest mountaineering. #everest2026
Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2026 coverage, my 23rd year covering all things Everest. If you’re a long-time reader, welcome back. If you’re new here, thanks for joining me.
I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have climbed on the mountain three other times (all from the Nepalese side): 2002, 2003, and 2008. On these attempts, I reached just below the Balcony around 27,500 feet (8400 meters) before health, weather, or my judgment caused me to turn back. I also attempted Lhotse in 2015 and 2016.
Although the climbing season is still a few months away, I’ll publish several big-picture articles before activity ramps up in early April. Once the season begins in early April, updates become more frequent and intensify during the summit pushes of mid-to-late May. You can sign up for (or cancel) email notifications in the lower-right sidebar, or simply check the site regularly. #everest2026
As we close out 2025, I caught up with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, for a rare moment while he was home in the Seattle area. Garrett summited all of the Seven Summits (Messner List) in 2025, plus had some interesting times on Cho Oyu, watched one of his teams struggle, like the others, on K2, and is actively guiding on Vinson. We discussed all this, including what to expect for Everest in 2026, with the more expensive permit fees, new requirements for Everest applicants from China, and proposals from Nepal. #everest2026
Mid-December is a quiet time in the mountaineering world, so I thought it would be nice to pick meteorologist Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solution’s brain on the upcoming winter season for mountaineering across the globe. And, of course, we have to touch on Everest.
The 8000er season is chiefly over, and the true winter climbs have yet to begin in earnest. But soon, we will have activity in Antarctica with adventurers attempting full crossings, climbers going for Vinson, Tyree and maybe an unclimbed peak or two. Then, as we move towards the new year, the slopes of Acocnagua become busy with a new group of aspirants wanting to test themselves at 7,000 meters, perhaps for training for an upcoming Everest climb.
In this Podcast, I briefly review the 2025 year in mountaineering and share my thoughts on a “Climber’s Holiday Season.” #everest2026
Mostly, local Nepalese media are promoting a new route bypassing the infamous Khumbu Icefall, claiming it to be shorter, faster, and safer, retracing the original path used by the British 1953 expedition that accomplished the first Everest summit. These articles seem to confuse a new route with an old trekking route reopened, and may not have thoroughly fact-checked some of the performance claims.
While the overall press is limited and has not gone mainstream, the facts are not as simple as “new summit route.” I believe commercial operators will rarely use the route on Nuptse’s flanks to bypass the Icefall, as it is too difficult for today’s average Everest climber. Still, it may be used by a few who have the skills and desire to avoid the Icefall.
Let’s take a look at the proposed new route, its history, then fact-check some of the claims, including that the Icefall is the most dangerous section when climbing Everest, and finally, a look at what today’s climbers can do if they have Icefall concerns. #everest2026
The 2025 Himalayan Autumn climbing has been a deadly one with multiple deaths across several mountains. Similarly, several events occurred in the Alps, taking five lives. Authorities had warned strongly about heavy snow in the Himalaya and advised climbers and trekkers to pause all activity for a few days.
Authorities and meteorologists are issuing dire warnings for climbers and trekkers in Nepal’s Himalayas. Seizing the opportunity to pre-market the documentary of Jim Morrison’s legendary ski descent down Everest’s North Face, National Geographic released a short teaser revealing the scale and courage it took to complete this feat. A Russian team opens a new route on Manaslu.
The recent heavy snowfall across both sides of Everest created a host of false and poorly written and researched articles about “stranded climbers on Everest.” The only climbers on Everest were the NatGeo ski team and they were never stranded. Many teams of seasonal trekkers were stranded in Tibet’s Kama (or Karma) Valley, east of Mount Everest, but all were rescued by local villagers and SARs teams. Bottom line is there was drama but nothing to get seriously worked up over.
As the Himalayan season winds down climbing action picks up on Puncak Jaya or Carstensz Pyramid on the island of New Guinea, Kilimanjaro, Antartica’s Vinson Massif and around the New Years, Argentina’s Aconcagua.
New Zealander Peter Hillary needs no introduction, as his last name recalls the historic achievement of his father, Sir Edmund Hillary, who, along with Tenzing Norgay, first summited Mt. Everest on May 29, 1953.
An adventurer in his own right, Peter has undertaken over 40 expeditions and adventures that most of us only dream of. He’s been to the North and South Poles, summited Everest twice, jet-boated the entire length of the Ganges River, and more. He’s also an accomplished author, speaker and adventure guide company operator.
I first met Peter at Everest Base Camp in 2003 and again last month here in Colorado, where I thoroughly enjoyed one of his legendary talks.
In this podcast, we discuss Peter’s relationship with his father, his upbringing, adventures, and the future of mountaineering. We also discuss the Himalayan Trust, a foundation started by his father in 1961 that continues today, building schools, infrastructure, roads, and more throughout Nepal, a country close to Peter’s heart.
On September 1, 2025, several new rules were enacted for mountaineering in Nepal. The most significant change was increased permit fees for Nepal’s most popular peaks. The rest of the rules seem like window dressing or distractions designed to mitigate any negative press around the price increase. The Nepal Ministry of Tourism has effectively used this strategy for years.
One proposed rule being marketed by Nepal guides and promoted throughout the press, Nepal and worldwide, is that all Everest permit applicants must have climbed a 7000-meter peak in Nepal. This rule has NOT yet been approved. You can follow its current status at this link, which is listed as “Discussion in Committee” as of September 3, 2025.
The 2025 Everest expedition has come to a close, marked by strong winds, drones, challenging climbing, and innovative strategies. Along the way were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity.
Not all was bad, and one climber stood out: a German alpinist, Anja Blacha, made a near-solo ascent (she summited the same day as 30 other people), unsupported, setting a record. This is something we often overlook in our fast-paced social media world. The overall summit count for both sides of Everest in 2025 is estimated to be around 846, including support climbers such as Sherpas, Tibetans, and Guides. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2025
Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
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