Everest 2018: Summit Wave 4 – Update SUMMITS!

Everest Oxygen

Teams are once again on the move from their high camps on the Tibet side and Nepal hoping to summit early Thursday morning 17 May, 2018. After yesterday’s big day with over 140 summits, today should be a bit quieter. Also, hoping for less drama after the failed oxygen systems on the North side. Alpenglow […]

Everest 2018: Summit Wave 3 Recap – Sherpa Death on Everest

A Sherpa has died while over 140 people summited Everest on Wednesday morning, May 16. But a series of oxygen system failures stopped at least one team. Look for another day of summits on Thursday as May 17 was the date many teams had target last weekend as the winds calmed. Last night was clear, […]

Everest 2018: Oxygen Failure on North Side – Urgent – No Casualties

Everyone is safe, including guides, Sherpas, and members but there is a serious situation on the North side of Everest early Wednesday morning 16 May. Teams are turning back from the summit. I spoke live by satellite phone with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow, at 6:47 am, Everest time. He was at 8500 meters, near […]

Everest 2018: Hillary Step or Slope?

Hillary Step by Nepal Mountaineering AssociationHillary Step by Nepal Mountaineering Association

One of the hot topics readers have asked about is if the Hillary Step is still there or not. There have been no comments thus far on the state of the Hillary Step from Sherpas or other climbers that have been in the area. The question is if it is still there or not after the […]

Everest 2018: Summit Wave 3 – Update 1 – O’s failure on North Side

Lhotse Face Line 2003

Urgent: Oxygen Failure on North Side Everyone is safe, including guides, Sherpas, and members but there is a serious situation on the North side of Everest early Wednesday morning 16 May. Teams are turning back from the summit. I spoke live by satellite phone with Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow, at 6:47 am, Everest time. […]

Everest 2018: Summit Wave 2 Recap, Sherpa Death on Makalu

Monday was expected to be large given the ropes were now set to the summit on both sides of #Everest2018 but a small wind event, that was predicted, seemed to stall almost all the teams on both sides. Its unclear if there were any summits from the Nepal side and only a handful on the […]

Everest 2018: Weather Stalls Summits

Climbers on the Lhotse Face

Looks like there will be limited activity on Everest from Monday night to Tuesday, May 14 morning. The weather forecast, from all sources, showed a “squall” coming in and it appeared right on schedule. There were supposed to be 100 climbers attempting the summit early 15 May. Many teams are now at Camps 1, 2 […]

Everest 2018: Summit Wave 1 – 1st Foreign Summits from Nepal – Update 3

Everest Southeast Ridge in 2011 as seen from Lhotse

With good weather on Sunday into early Monday morning, Mt. Everest has become a beehive of activity with at least 50 summits thus far. Teams on both sides are currently climbing from base camp to the higher camps in anticipation of making their summit bids through this week. A small front moved through on Monday […]

Everest 2018: Weekend Update May 13

As last week was so quiet, this upcoming week will be like riding a wild horse. It appears, the winds have finally calmed and the jet stream has moved away from Everest thus allowing the ropes to be set to the summit on the Nepal (South) side Sunday afternoon and perhaps early Monday morning on […]

Everest 2018: Winds Calming, Summit Pushes Begin

OK, it finally looks like the real deal is on for #Everest2018. Multiple teams are reported to be leaving base camps on both sides to get in position for summits between May 14-20. Other teams are content to let this first wave pass, then to look at the next window. The long term forecast had […]