Everest 2018: Pushing Hard before the Wait

Sometimes you have to go slow to go fast. But right now, the pressure is building to get the last acclimatization rotations in as the weather looks to be turning on Everest for the worse. After a fast start for the rope fixing teams, they may get stalled for a week or more. Weather Woes […]
Everest 2018: Inside the Mind During the Last Rotation

This week may be the most important week, including the summit attempt, of the Everest 2018 season. Climbers on both the Tibet and Nepal sides are making their last acclimatization rotations before the summit attempt, still a couple weeks away. Once completed they begin the waiting game back at base camp. They will need four […]
Everest 2018: Mid Season Summary

As we enter May, let’s look at the Everest season thus far and what to expect. Overall if there is one word for the season it might be “boring” 🙂 OK, not exactly for those who are doing the work. Actually “no bad surprises” might be a more accurate phrase Big Picture On both sides […]
Everest 2018: A Summit and a Death

Over the weekend there was good and sad news. The first 8000 meter summit was made on Lhotse and the first 8000 meter death occurred on Dhaulagiri. Teams are being aggressive on Everest with their acclimatization schedules, some already at Camp 3 on the Nepal side a d North Col on the Tibet side. Lhotse […]
Everest 2018: Weekend Update April 28

It was another good week on Everest. While it was windy and snowy at times, overall teams on both sides did well. There was one accident on the Nepal side when a tall serac in the Icefall collapsed onto the route injuring two Sherpas. As we enter May, talk of summit dates will increase. It […]
Everest 2018: The Risks of Everest

Climbing any mountain has inherent risks and Everest is no different. While, the death rate is actually lower in recent years compared to when commercialization began in the early 1990’s, people still get hurt and die each season. It has been snowing on both side of the mountain. A few of the Nepal side teams […]
Everest 2018: The Day Nepal Shook

Some memories are so etched into your essence, that they will never go away and they will always be clear. The day my mom asked me “Now, who are you again?” The day I met Di and publicly committed to her in our backyard three years later. The day the Khumbu Glacier dropped by inches […]
Everest 2018: The Challenge of Acclimatization

It has been a good day on Everest as climbers are working hard to acclimitize. Teams on the Nepal side are all over the Hill, from base camp to Camp 2 while it’s a similar map on the Tibet side with teams now at Advanced Base Camp. We are hearing from a few climbers who […]
Everest 2018: The Right Age for Everest

It’s busy on Everest just as it should be in late April. We have teams at Camp 2 on the South side and ABC on the North. Ropes are going higher so all is well. In this post I review the action and take a look at the best age to climb Everest. Icefall Update […]
Everest 2018: Stormy Future for Everest and the Other 8000ers?

All is well on Everest, except for the normal issues associated with acclimatizing. I’m seeing a lot of talk about the weather so this post looks at what they may expect across the Himalaya and whats happening on the other peaks. Ropes to C3! On the Nepal side, great news with the ropes now set […]