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Climbing the World to End Alzheimer's
May 212013
 

Everest Shadow

Update 3

Mountain Trip just sent this note out:

We just received a call from the summit, we have 5 on top right now! 7.25am, Yahoo! Conditions sound perfect, very light winds, no crowds. Sounds like things started out very windy and have improved through the night. That’s super good news here. We have Manoj Vora, DaWang Chu Sherpa, Serki Sherpa, Gombu Sherpa and Norbu Sherpa enjoying the view. Manoj and all the sherpas sound good, no problems.

 Carlos Pauner summited completing thus completing climbing all 14 8000m mountains without supplemental oxygen

Melissa Arnot and Tshering Sherpa summit from South. She builds her American women’s record now with 5 summits.

Summits on North Side with Adventure Peaks, more to come.

Update 2

35 climbers reported tonight on the South with final big push Wednesday night.  Weather is slowly getting worse so tonight and Wednesday may be the last chance this season.

North climbers reported past 2nd Step. Melissa Arnot checked in at the South Summit.

81 year-old Nepali, Min Bahadur Sherchan, is still at EBC. 80 year-old Yuichiro Miura at South Col.

Update 1

Conditions are reported good tonight by AAI:

The forecast look good with winds in the 15 to 25 mile per hour range with possible higher gusts. There may be some cloud cover here at base camp, but it looks like our climbers will be well above it while they climb at over 8,000 meters. The temperature will be in the vicinity of -20 C or -4 F, balmy and warm for this altitude

Looks like Melissa Arnot is trying again tonight.

Two deaths just reported from Monday’s summit push:

  • Sung Ho-Seo, 34, of South Korea was attempting the climb without supplementary oxygen and died on his way down the mountain.
  • Mohammed Hossain, 35, from Bangladesh, died in his tent a few hours after successfully climbing the summit.

This makes 8 deaths for the 2013 Everest season with 4 of those being Sherpa.


 

Another big morning with climbers from many teams summiting. The good weather continues even though last night the winds were “brisk” at 20 mph.

Another wave tonight and tomorrow should wrap things up on the South with a couple of exceptions. On the North summits will continue for a few more days depending on the weather.

 Wave 6 Recap

There were summits from IMG’s third team, aka Classic, with 10 summits this morning, 42 for the season,  Asian Trekking had 14 and Adventure Consultants with 16 summiters, 100% success for them.

It has been a good season for commercial guides, Jagged Globe also had 100% with 24 summits.

The students from Sanawar India summited. They are 16-17 years-old: Guribadat Singh, Prithvi Singh Chahal, Ajay Sohal, Shubham Kaushik, Fateh Singh Brar and Raghav Jonneja.

Also from India to summit was Arunima Sinha with Nima Kancha Sherpa and Pemba Tshering with Asian Trekking. With this summit she became the first female amputee, with an artificial leg below her left knee.

As for the new descent route on the Hillary Step, IMG noted:

IMG guide Justin Merle reports that he rappelled down the new descent route at the Hillary Step and says that it is a good option. All the IMG climbers are now below the South Summit heading down, so that is good news.

I am not sure how many members used the new descent. It will be interesting to debrief a few upon their return home.

On the North, Kari Kobler put 14 on top. They climbed from Camp 3 to the summit in 6:30 minutes. With the team was Silvio Mondinelli the famous Italian mountaineer making his third Everest summit. He was the 13th person to climb the 14 8000m mountains without supplementary oxygen. He was attempting a ‘speed’ climb  with Ecuadorian Tima Patricio. No update on that effort as of this post.

Amical put members on the summit from the North. Austrian climber Rupert Hauer with Amical, had just summited Shishapangma and now was on Everest but aborted his summit push to give aid to another climber suffering vision problems. Very unselfish.

Wave 7

I can’t believe I even am counting to seven given last year we only had four summit pushes.

Several teams still remain on the South including Himex, RMI, Mountain Trip, Tim Mosedale and several independents.

Alpine Ascents has a team called Arabs with Altitude including: Mohammed Al Thani, Masoud Kalafchi,Raed Zidan and camerman Elia Saikaly. They are climbing now.

The Arabs With Altitude have been resting, hydrating, and rebuilding their strength today at the South Col in preparation for their summit push tonight. The weather report continues to look good for our climbers. The winds have picked up a little since yesterdays forecast, but they are still relatively low and manageable. There are only a few other teams planning to climb the mountain tonight. Everything is looks to be lining up for great summit conditions!

On the North, Altitude Junkies is at Camp 3 climbing to the summit tonight, Tuesday may 21st for a Wednesday, May 22nd summit.

Adventure Peaks reported attrition after a long, tough season on the North. This include Bob Kerr who developed vision problems and did an audio update safely back at the North Col. This from AP:

Greetings from Top Camp, 8250m. Unfortunately 2 of our team have had to return down from 7800m. Paul and Jenny made the difficult decision that she was not moving strongly enough, Bob was suffering with blurred vision in one eye. They are now returning down from the North Col and will soon be in Advanced Basecamp.

Nelson Dellis, Altitude Junkies, made this post from Camp 2 as they prepared to go on the summit bid:

Holy hell, what a rough day. We started our summit push yesterday as we left for the North Col. It felt easier this time, even though we were all dreading it. I guess Phil’s secret rotation from last time made a difference. Most of us rocketed up there in just over three hours. And I tented with Ole again, where we watched a movie on my iPhone. It was pretty relaxing for where we were!

This morning we left at around 8:00 a.m., with the goal being to get as high as we could without oxygen. Most of us were on it about an hour out of camp — good God, turning that stuff on makes a difference. Without it, taking any step was difficult, whereas afterwards it was just like walking up stairs non stop—for a while anyways. Once we got up to 7500m, every step was horrible. You would take five and then have to slouch onto your knee to find your breath. And the slope just went up and up. Finally, we reached the end of the north east ridge snow slope, and there was a steep rock scramble to get to our tents. It was so frustrating because the tents were RIGHT there, but I was so tired.

 RMI, Himex looking to summit Wednesday morning

For those wanting a first hand report on the rime ice that hit climbers late last week, this is an excellent report from Mike Chambers.

Best of luck to all the teams tonight.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything


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