Climbers missing after avalanche hits Himlung Base Camp—sixteen missing.

Climbers missing after avalanche hits Himlung Base Camp—fourteen people are missing. Himlung Himal (7,126 m), in Manang district, requires an additional permit for helicopter flights, adding to the difficulties of reaching the mountain.

Himlung has been heavily marketed since Nepal floated the idea of requiring a 7,000-meter climb in Nepal before applying for an Everest permit. The rule is going through Nepal’s governmental approval process but is not in place as of September 2026, and probably will not be in time for the Everest 2027 Spring season. #manaslu2026

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Phurba Tashi Sherpa, Himex Sidar, fixing route to Manaslu summit in 2013

Manaslu Over for Most—Finally!

It’s over on Manaslu. Even the rope-fixers are bailing as the typhoon is about to make landfall, bringing, perhaps, feet of snow to the higher elevations across the Himalaya. The Nepali weather experts are warning of potential flooding in Kathmandu and other areas. #manaslu2026

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Manaslu Northeast Ridge Route

Manaslu Dominates Autumn Himalaya Season and One Death

With China closing Tibet to mountaineering this autumn and recent floods making travel to many areas in Nepal difficult, operators focused on Manaslu, and climbers came.

Nepali authorities have issued a record 451 climbing permits to foreign climbers on Manaslu (8,163 meters/26,781 feet), with a 1:1.5 member-to-support ratio, which could put 1,128 climbers on the mountain. Nepal received over $1.35 million in royalties. Sadly, there has been one death. #manaslu2026

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Ten Years of Summit Coach—and a Special Offer for Climbers

September 2026 marks ten years since I founded Summit Coach, LLC. Since then, I’ve worked with hundreds of clients and interacted with thousands more. Today, I have dozens of climbers under contract—each with a different background, schedule, and definition of success. For my anniversary, I’m excited to make a special offer to new and current clients. #summitcoach #alanarnette

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Manaslu 2013

Himalaya Autumn Season Begins

As summer ends, the Autumn Himalayan climbing season begins. Manaslu is the favorite climb, given that China has inexplicably closed Tibet to climbing. We can expect record summits on Manaslu this season, despite the catastrophic floods in Nepal; climbers are still climbing. Many teams switched from trekking to using a helicopter to reach base camps, but road closures and bridges out after the flood made that difficult. #manaslu2026

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Tragic Tibet-Nepal Flood Update

On August 26, 2026, a catastrophic flood struck the Nepal–Tibet border, taking 1,273 lives, with an estimated 4,750 people still missing. This post explains what likely happened, the current casualty totals, the rescue operations underway, and other key details.

The situation is still developing, so consider this a snapshot, not a definitive post. #nepal2026flood

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Bergshrund that may have triggered the Broad Peak 2026 avalanche. Credit: Ian Overton, August 20206.

Karakorum 2026 Season Wrap Up

The Karakorum climbing season has ended: two peaks unsummited and a tragedy. It was an extremely quiet season with a low number of permits issued in a long time, perhaps twenty or more years. #breoadpeak2026 #k2026

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The route up Broad Peak. Courtesy of polishwinterhimalaism.pl.

Learnings from Broad Peak Tragedy

Two weeks ago today, on July 30, 2026, ten climbers died in a single avalanche on Broad Peak. The event has received extensive media coverage, in part because Nirmal “Nims” Purja, one of the most consequential mountaineers of his generation, died. Also among the dead were six other highly experienced high-altitude guides — one with 28 8,000-meter summits — two very experienced clients, including one with 12 8,000-meter summits, and a Texas climber attempting her first 8,000er.

The discussion across social media has ranged from praise to blame, sparking an intense debate over responsibility and judgment — with some pointing fingers and naming names. There were ten climbers across four independent teams with no single leader. It would be easy to start speculating, and that’s not what I’m doing here.

I begin with what matters most: who they were, not just how they died. #breoadpeak2026

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