Everest 2021: Summit Wave 2 – Update 2

Wave 2: Update 2

Sisters Nima Jangbu, Tshering Namgya, and Dawa Futi Sherpa summited Everest at 7:00 am with Imagine Nepal Treks

Peak Promotion put two members and two sherpas on the top at 7:40 am. They were Jitendra Gaware, Jigmat Tharchin, Pasang Sherpa and Phurba Sherpa.

Note 101 summits last night. Crazy silly client to Sherpa ratio this year by Seven Summits Treks. The 12 member Bahrain team had 26 Sherpas in support

Wave 2: Update 1

Taylor Sweitzer finished his Grand Slam with his Everest summit at 4:54 local time along with Phura Sherpa, Tensing Gyalzen Sherpa, Panuru Sherpa, and Lapka Sherpa.

Pakistan Sirbaz Khan summited Mt Everest at 6.05 am. He summitted Annapurna last month.


First Post

The second summit wave is taking place starting late evening May 11 with summited expected around dawn on Wednesday, May 12, 2021. Bad weather appears to be getting closer, including a potential cyclone outer bands so anxiety is inching higher to get up and out as fast a possible. If they miss this window, they be looking for a summit bid after May 20.

Over 50 people summited Everest between 5:30 am and 9 am on Tuesday morning, May 11, 2021. The Chinese are expected to summit from their side perhaps in this same window. They have made global headlines with a stunt to put a “barrier” on the summit to prevent fully masked, down-covered climbers heavily laden with boots and gloves from infecting one another with COVID while in a 30 mph wind on a 10 sq mt block of ice.

Wave 2 Plans

More teams are positioned at the South Col expecting to leave around 9 tonight including from Seven Summits Treks:

The will leave the Col around 8-9pm tonight, climb through the night with the goal of summiting at first light around 4-5am. The 7 climbers (Michael N, Michael P, Rob S, Steve S, April L & Ryan A) are supported by 13x very strong Sherpa & Sherpa Guides.

PolarExplorers guide Taylor Sweitzer Making Final Push for Everest Summit and Grand Slam. He’s supported by Phura Sherpa, Tensing Gyalzen Sherpa, Panuru Sherpa and his son Lapka Sherpa.

Another young Pakistani climber, Sirbaz Khan, is going up without O’s. He’s attempting all 14 of the 8000ers to honor the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara.

Mingma G is going on his summit push without oxygen while the rest of his clients and Sherpas with Imagine Nepal is on O’s along with him.

Cyclone Fears?

The jet stream is moving back towards Everest and could arrive as soon as May 14 and leave around the 20th.

Michael Fagin, long time Everest forecaster at Everest Weather tells me of a potential cyclone in the Bay of Bengal:

Cyclone may form in Indian Ocean and Potential Impacts on Everest

The Joint Typhoon Warning Center has issued https://www.metoc.navy.mil/jtwc/products/abioweb.txt a warning that an area of convection “Invest 92 A” is currently in the North Indian Ocean and has the potential of forming into a significant tropical cyclone in the next 24 hours.

Impacts on Everest? This is the difficult part! The US Navy model (see map below) has this off the west Indian coast on May 14. Then between May 14 to May 17 has this tracking north to northeast and closer to Everest not as a cyclone but as a moist area of low pressure. .The concern is by May 18 this could track towards Everest and bring some moderate snowfall.

US Navy Model 500 mb map (18,000’ -5454 meters)

However US based GFS and European models has this tracking away from Everest and no impacts on Everest.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything


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