Winter Himalayan Update

8,156m (26,670'), Manaslu

Climbing in winter is always difficult, and this season is no different. Lost gear stopped the Cho effort; sickness took out another Manaslu climber and a brave effort on Dhaulagiri.

Manaslu Summit

Manaslu saw a winter summit, and it was on the true summit. Alex Txikon, along with Tenjen Sherpa, Pasang Nurbu Sherpa, Mingtemba Sherpa, Chhepal Sherpa, Pemba Tasi Sherpa, and Gyalu Sherpa, all made the summit with Txikon not on O’s. Simone Moro turned back around Camp 3 with gastrointestinal problems. Until now, there have only been 15 winter summits, the last in 1998.


It must be lonley, in a good way, for Dhaulagiri climbers David Goetter and Herve Barmasse. After acclimatizing in the Khumbu, they took a helicopter to base camp and intended to climb the peak in alpine style with no other climbers.

No Cho Oyu Summit From Nepal

Norwegian Kristin Harila and Adriana Brownlee tried Cho Oyu from the Nepal side supported by six climbing Sherpas: Gelje Sherpa, Dawa Sherpa, Tenging Gyaljen Sherpa, Migmar Dhondup Sherpa, and Ngima Tashi Sherpa. Harila said the significant wind blew away their tents, sleeping bags, and down suits stored in Camp 1. Gelje Sherpa said they found in a nearby crevasse a few down suits and sleeping bags but not everything. They appealed for supporters and sponsors to help buy new gear, but it appears the effort failed, and they have abandoned this winter attempt. Harila said she was returning to Norway.

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