Everest 2026: April 27 Weekend Update – Icefall Route In?

We may finally see how climate change has impacted climbing Mt. Everest: melting seracs threatening climbers, and helicopters used to bypass the icefall.

Big Picture

First, let’s clarify that the Icefeall is not blocked and is passable. The issue is a large, unstable hanging serac that, if it fell onto the Icefall with climbers there, dozens could be killed, making it much worse than the 16 taken in a similar event in 2014. There are conflicting reports about a route to Camp 1. But others say it’s still too dangerous because of rockfall, and the ice serac in question remains.

There are 410 Everest permits issued, so with 1.5 Sherpas per permit and 0.2 cooks, there are around 1,200 people at EBC, by my estimation. I’ve seen other reports with three times that many.

In or Not?

“The joint team observed that there was no option to find any alternative safe route in the treacherous section until the hanging serac collapses,” Lakpa said, adding that the joint team of the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee and expedition operators was returning to base camp from the icefall section.

Tshering Tenzing Sherpa, base camp manager at SPCC, also confirmed that the serac has further widened, obstructing the proposed route to Camp I. “Earlier, the gap was some 3 feet, but it was found to be some 8 feet today,” he said, hoping that it would collapse in a few days.

Climbing the Seven Summits posted:

A team of more than 20 Sherpa Icefall Doctors, the Expedition Operators Association Nepal (EOA-Nepal), and other climbing teams, including CTSS, went up to assess the route and explore options. They all turned back, agreeing that the route above was still too dangerous.

Another smaller independent team did make it above this section, but it remains to be seen whether their route is reasonable for sending hundreds of climbers through. The Icefall Doctors will head back up tomorrow to assess this route and keep an eye on the condition of the seracs.

How Many Ladders and When?

History shows that the Docs usually get the route set between April 2^nd and 16^th:

Helicopters to Camp 2

The route from Base Camp to Camp II is delayed due to a serac blocking it. A total of 10 helicopters will ferry equipment — including ropes, oxygen cylinders and food — directly to Camp II to expedite the rope fixing task. Under normal regulations, flights above Everest Base Camp are restricted to search-and-rescue operations.

This may become the new normal. Note that no foreigners or support climbers are allowed to fly over the Icefall, except for urgent medical emergencies.

Next Week

Here’s to a safe season for everyone on all the peaks.