Everest 2023: 100 More Summits, Sixth Everest Death and Carlos Soria, 84, Rescue Underway

With masses of climbers on Everest, today we saw over 100 more summits bringing the season total to over 166 and the sixth death of the season. There were many “records” set as well, some in the beholder’s eye. Moldovan climber Victor Brinza died at the South Col on May 17, making the sixth death this season. He was with Nepali operator Himalayan Traverse Adventure.

Kami Rita Sherpa got his twenty-seventh summit, a record while guiding his client, and Kenton Cool got his seventeenth while also guiding his client, setting a record for non-Sherpa summits. Dorji Gyaljen Sherpa was with them. Well over 100 Sherpas have summited Everest over ten times. #everest2023

Everest 2023: More Everest Summits, and Lhotse

Everest Plume

As the saying goes, if you must predict the future, do it early and often. Even some of the best weather forecasters may have missed this high-wind episode that stalled most climbing on Monday. But don’t blame them too much as pockets of winds can develop unexpectedly and suddenly.

However, four members of the Nepali army did summit supported by four Sherpas bringing the season total to at least twenty-nine, including the rope team.. #everest2023

Everest 2023: First of Many Commercial Summits

It looks like ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. The weather continues to hold with good conditions and winds under the 30 mph threshold through May 20. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday, May 17th for their summit day. Look for summits each day this week. #everest2023

Everest 2023: Summit Pushes Begin with Thieves on the Mountain

Everest South Col 2003

With the ropes now fixed to the summit, hundreds of people left Everest Base Camp over the past several days for their summit push. The winds appear to be under the 30 mph threshold through May 20, hopefully allowing climbers to spread out and avoid the massive queues of 2019. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday, May 17th as their summit day. Meanwhile, thieves appear to be at work on Everest, rare but not uncommon.

The question is, how many people will be on their summit push this weekend? Almost every team has completed their acclimatization programs and is ready. The lack of fixed rope to the summit and high winds above Camp 3 has stalled everyone, frustrating some team leaders. Some forecasts have acceptable summit winds, under 30 mph/48 kph through May 20. If this pans out, there will be plenty of time for everyone to have their shot at the top. Thus, it becomes a question of how the teams leaders will cooperate and coordinate their summit pushes.
#everest2023

Everest 2023: Managing the Crowds this Weekend of Summits

Lhotse Face Line 2003

As forecasted, the winds have let up, allowing the rope team to continue fixing it to the summit. This will open the mountain for scores for clients with one or more Sherpas in support. Look for a busy first wave of summits over the next few days.

The question is, how many people will be on their summit push this weekend? Almost every team has completed their acclimatization programs and is ready. The lack of fixed rope to the summit and high winds above Camp 3 has stalled everyone, frustrating some team leaders. Some forecasts have acceptable summit winds, under 30 mph/48 kph through May 20. If this pans out, there will be plenty of time for everyone to have their shot at the top. Thus, it becomes a question of how the teams leaders will cooperate and coordinate their summit pushes.
#everest2023

Everest 2023: Cho Oyu Summits and Everest Weather

Cho Oyu route

Peak bagging season continues with summits on Tibet’s 8000ers. Look for some of the Annapurna summiteers to bag Makalu or Dhualagiri, then combo Everest and Lhotse. The weather is the wildcard this year if we see long lines like in 2019.

Big Picture

Teams are now scattered all over the Big Hill, working on their acclimatization, from EBC to Camp 3 just below the Lhotse Face. S spat of bad weather slowed some teams for a couple of days, but nothing serious. However, over on Dhaulagiri, reports from base camp note five feet of snow in the last few days. Carlos Soria must be quite nervous given this is his fourteenth at, and he’s 84 years old.

Everest 2023: Interview with Garrett Madison from Everest Base Camp

The #Everest2023 season is taking shape as teams continue to acclimatize with rotations to Camps 1 and 2, with some tagging Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp, we discuss the record permits, his acclimatization strategy, addressing the human waste problem, the long route through the Icefall and their attempt to summit the difficult and highly technical Nuptse. #everest2023