Month: July 2023

It was a difficult night and day on July 27, 2023, on K2. There is at least one reported death. Several teams pushed through, while others felt it was a death trap to summit, and some turned back. A few will try again as the inventory of aspirants clears out. K2 lived up to her reputation. Around seventy people summited. #k2023

We have K2 2023 summits by the rope team and Kristin Harila with Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa for their last 8000er in 3 months, 13 hours. A massive number of climbers are still to go as long as the weather holds. #k2023

Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering reported his team is on their summit push, hoping to top out on July 27. They will be following the rope team to the summit since they have been delayed by heavy snow the past couple of days. Look for over 150 people to summit if the weather holds, with perhaps another 150 stationed lower on the mountian. #k2023

Not surprisingly, the weather has moved in, bringing white-out conditions to K2. The rope fixing team was supposed to summit today, Monday, July 24, but we haven’t received any updates. Look for a few days’ delay at this point beyond July 25-27, when most teams were targeting their summits. #k2023

The time has come for teams to climb K2 from base camp to the summit. There are about 250 people on the mountain, so it will be interesting to see how potential crowds are managed at the limited campsites and traditional bottleneck areas. The weather forecasts call for consistent light snow with moderate winds; however, this peak is notorious for making its own weather, so nothing is off the table. The teams want to get the fixed ropes to the summit by Monday, July 24, 2023… #k2023

Record summits are happening all over Pakistan this summer, including Broad Peak, GII and even GI. Pakistan has joined Nepal is monetizing their 8000ers with record permits issued this season. Pakistan reportedly issued a record number of climbing permits this year, even after a record 1,937 visitors to the Northern Territories last year. This despite raising the permit for their flagship peak, K2, from $5000 to 12,000 for a seven-member group.. #k2023

The peak bagging continues with summits on Broad Peak, GII and even GI. Kristin Harila got her twelfth summit leaving Broad and K2 to nab all fourteen in three months. Teams have continued their acclimatization rotations on K2. #k2023

It was a good weekend on Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak, with multiple summits. Teams have continued their acclimatization rotations on K2, but some of the Nanga Parbat climbers will skip any rotations and go directly on their summit push. Kristin Harla did this on GII.  #k2023

Climbing on K2 has finally begun for the estimated 250 people there. They’ve been stalled by weeks of poor weather. Similarly, activity is picking up on Pakistan’s four other 8000-meter peaks. While it may seem late, most K2 summits occur at the end of July, so while the delay is annoying for the teams, it doesn’t pose a big problem. The larger issue is the condition of the mountain with the recent heavy snows and, now, an increased avalanche danger. The flip side of this is perhaps with the snow, rockfall will be less this year. #k2023

Good news from Nanga Parbat with reports that Pakistani climber Asif Bhatti who became snowblind and was stranded at 7300m at Camp 4, is now back to base camp. Karrar Haidri, Secretary Alpine Club of Pakistan issued this statement:

Asif Bhatti arrived at Base Camp safely. He will be taken to Skardu by an army chopper from Nanga Parbat Base Camp. He’ll return to Islamabad after obtaining first care.

He has been assisted by Azerbaijan climber Israfil Ashurli who without a doubt saved his life when he joined him at Camp 4 and helped him though the difficult rock faces to C2. Mohammed Younis and Fazal Ali met them between C2 and C3 and then helped Bhatti to base camp. For a full good end to this story, we need to see Ashurli reach base camp. #k2023

Similar conditions last year caused most professional climbers to abandon Nanga. And even this year, seasoned professional Marco Confortola turned back, demonstrating excellent judgment in light of poor climbing conditions:  #k2023