Everest 2024: Route to Camp 2 & April 18–A Day of Remembrance

Climbalaya 2024 CBC

Good news from Everest: the route through the Khumbu Icefall is complete through Camp 2, around 21,000’/6400. This opens the route for Sherpas to begin building C1/2 and for members to begin their acclimatization rotations shortly thereafter. Everest permits lag last year’s record of 478. As of April 15, 2024, the government issued 274 permits to foreigners compared to 338 in 2023 as of the same date; this is 20% less. While bad for business, this is good for the mountain. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 7–Into the Cwm

Part 7 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 22, 23 and 24. I’ll continue my annual coverage as usual.

Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I’ll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.

In Part 7, our protagonist, Harper, and the team climb through the Icefall and into the Western Cwm. The team’s oldest member, Jim, is struggling. “Any advice?” He asked their guide, John Paul, who had been close by his side all morning. “Slow, steady, and make sure you are always clipped in. No need to rush. We are making good time.” Jim appreciated the positive spin. #everest2024

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 6–Into the Icefall

Part 6 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 17, 18 and 19. I’ll continue my annual coverage as usual.

Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I’ll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.

In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, makes her first trip into the Khumbu Icefall. She was nervous following Mingma, her climbing Sherpa, “Mingma looked at her as Harper took a second carabiner off her harness. He went across first. Clipping in ‘biners to the two safety ropes on either side of the ladder, he stepped onto the first rung, then the second and without so much as a pause, he was across, standing there staring at her. Harper could almost hear him in a deep John Wayne drawl; “OK, kid, I showed you how to do it, now get on with it.” #everest2024

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Everest 2024: Tibet Climbs in Peril

Once again, climbing the Tibet side of Everest has problems–the teams can’t even cross the border from Nepal into China. Rain is pelting trekkers on the Nepal side, but many teams are settling in at EBC and having their pujas. There are encouraging reports that the Icefall Doctors have reached the upper section of the Khumbu Icefall, albeit the latest in modern times. It’s a tough start to this spring season on Everest. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 5–Arrival At Base Camp

Part 5 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 14, 15 and 16. I’ll continue my annual coverage as usual.

Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I’ll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.

In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, now at Everest Base Camp, is enjoying the smells from home as she unpacked her duffle when she is suddenly interrupted. #everest2024

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Everest 2024: Weekend Update April 14: Icefall Woes, Fewer Climbers

Welcome to the Everest 2024 Weekend Update in mid-April. This week’s headlines are a bit concerning. The fixed line that should already be at Camp 2 is only halfway through the Icefall. I’m not sure this is bad news for climbers, but Everest permits lag significantly from 2023, down 34%. However, we saw the first 8000er summits this past week, with many more to come. Base Camp at Everest is filling up. Trekkers are on the move, and mountains are seeing summits. Hello, spring 2024. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 4–Blessing in the Khumbu

Part 4 of Everyday Everest,  my new Podcast series, covers chapters 11, 12 and 13. I’ll continue my annual coverage as usual.

Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I’ll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.

In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, visits a Monastery and observes the monks during their daily prayers, “Without a cue, the drumbeat began. One of the senior Monks started his chant – actually a prayer. Others joined in. They created an unbelievable resonance that built as it bounced off the artfully painted walls. Harper closed her eyes to take this moment in without the filter of sight. It was spiritual and sensory.#everest2024

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Everest 2024: Interview with Will Cockrell on his new book–Everest, Inc.

In 2024, Everest has become completely commercialized. Shock, right? Well, Will Cockrell’s new book, Everest, Inc: The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World, tells us how it happened. If you love Everest, despise it or don’t really care, this book has something for everyone. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 3–The Trek Begins

Part 3 of Everyday Everest,  my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 8, 9 and 10. I’ll continue my annual coverage as usual.

Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I’ll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. 

In Part 3, our protagonist, Harper, sees Everest from the Everest View Hotel just above Namache Bazaar: “Harper stopped. They all stopped, quietly letting their eyes trace the Khumbu Triple Crown: Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse—two of the fourteen highest mountains on the planet. The signature white plume flowed off the summit of Everest like a bride’s long wedding gown train. Mother Goddess of the Earth never looked more lovely. Tony spoke, “I have been dreaming of this since the sixth grade.”#everest2024

Everest 2024: First Days at Base Camp & 1st 8000er summit

We have our first 8000er summit of the spring season. Seven Summits Trek’s rope-fixing team topped out on Makalu at 4:40 p.m. Meanwhile, the commercial teams stream into Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side. However, the Icefall Docs still have problems in the upper Icefall. Thankfully, most teams are still on their trek, so there’s no problem.

On the Tibet side, Adventure Peaks reports, “It looks like the border might not open until the 17th of April, so the team is planning to head to Langtang to start acclimatizing.” The next 8000er summit will probably be on Annapurna this Friday. Heavy snow and avalanche danger have stalled progress, but conditions are improving.

EverestER notes their first rescue of the season: a patient with suspected HACE. The patient received dexamethasone and was flown to the hospital at a lower altitude for further evaluation and treatment. As of April 10, the Everest Nepal permit tally has 209 foreigners across 18 teams. Tibet does not report permit updates.

Now, let’s look at what a climber goes through on their first day at Everest Base Camp. #everest2024