K2 2024 Coverage: A Few More Summits

The weather window held for another wave of summits on Monday morning, July 29, 2024. The body of a Pakistani porter was recovered.

K2: ~65+ summits

Maddison Mountaineering topped out today instead of yesterday, holding for a day at high camp for weather and crowds. They had Garrett with his fourth K2 summit, at least two clients and two Sherpas. Part of this team was Siddhi Tamang who made his second summit of K2 within 24 hours.

Also, Seven Summit Treks put more on top with 6 clients, 3 Sherpas and 1 HAW.

Body Recovery

A team of Pakistani climbers has retrieved the body of fallen porter Mohammad Hassan Shigri from 8200 meters near the Traverse and Bottleneck section at 8200m. He died last year as part of the rope fixing team but was underequipped and lacked experience at that altitude. It was a controversial situation with many accusations of wrongdoing but, ultimately, a result of a series of poor decisions across many groups.  They are at Camp 4 and will move to Camp 3 tonight. The retrieval team included Ilawar Sadpara, Akbar Hussein, Zakir Sadpara, Mohammed Murad Ali Mohammed Sadpara. source

Previously Reported

Here’s what we know of who summited:

• 8K Expeditions/Summit Karakorum: 3 clients and 6 Sherpas
• Glacier Himalaya: 4 clients with 4 Sherpas
• Imagine Nepal: 8 clients and 9 Sherpas
• Madison Mountaineering: 2 Sherpas on the rope team
• UPDATE: Seven Summits Treks: 4 clients and 4 Sherpas but included Japanese Naoko Watanabe with a female record of 3 K2 summits

On the Cesen route, Jean Yves Fredriksen apparently summited, climbing alone to C3, where it joins the Abbruzzi route. He didn’t use Os.

And the Other 8000ers

While K2 gets disproportionate attention, the other four deserve equal coverage. The Nepali outfit Seven Summits Treks, aka SST, has commercialized all fourteen of the 8000ers and usually does the route finding and rope fixing.

Gasherbrum I: ~8+ summits

• Seven Summits Treks: 5 clients with 3 Sherpas

Gasherbrum II: 37+ summits

• 14 Peaks: 8 clients with 6 Sherpas
• Seven Summits Treks: 1 client with 1 Sherpa on July 23
• Seven Summits Treks: 1 client with 2 Sherpas on July 22
• Seven Summits Treks: 6 clients with 5 Sherpas on July 21
• Summit Karakorun: 2 climbers

Broad Peak: ~20 summits

• Broadboy Adventures: 1 client with 3 Pakistanis HAW
• Karakorum Expeditions: 5 Pakistani HAWs fixed the rope to the summit, and then four clients
• Imagine Nepal: Pasang Namgel Sherpa, who finished all fourteen 8000ers
• Madison Mountaineering: 1 client with two Sherpas,
• Mashabrum Expeditions: 1 client with two Sherpas
• Summit Karakoram: 1 Sherpa
• Summit Travel: unknown number of clients and guides

Nanga Parbat: ~ 4 Summits

• Seven Summits Treks: 4 Sherpas fixed rope to the summit on July 9
• Seven Summits Treks: five clients with 4 Sherpas on July 10

Vadim Druelle set a speed record of 15 hrs and 18 minutes from the base camp.

Nanga saw four summits with a 1:1 ratio of support for their two Pakistani clients climbing via Nanga Parbat’s Diamir Face.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

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