I’m often asked what was my favorite climb. I have to set aside Everest and K2 for apparent reasons, but I immediately mention Ama Dablam and Vision. Let me explain.
Growing up in Memphis, Tennessee, at an elevation of 338 feet, I never imagined I would climb the world’s highest peaks, much less summit Everest and K2 in my 50s. So, I have to set them aside as achieving the impossible for me. When I first saw Ama Dablam in 1997 on a trek to Everest Base Camp, I remarked that it was unclimbable for a person like me with no mountaineering experience, limited time and money, but I did, summiting in October 2000.
Then, on December 9th, 2010, as part of my “7 Summits for Alzheimer’s” campaign in 2010/11, I summited the Vinson Massif in Antarctica. I was awestruck by the vast, pristine nature of the contentment and thrilled with the overall experience.
For all the seven summits, I think Vision has to be the least controversial as to if it’s the highest and if it’s on true continent. Six hundred miles from the South Pole, Mount Vinson was the last of the 7 Summits to be summited and is known for some of the worst weather on the planet. The view of endless ice and snow from Vinson’s summits was one of the most astounding scenes I have ever witnessed. It was fun!
Overview
The Vinson Massif is 16,050 feet/4892 meters high. The elevation gain from Vinson Base Camp to the summit is 9,160 feet/2792 meters, all on snow and ice-covered terrain. The primary issue most climbers face is the endless winds. Snow walls built from snow blocks carved out of the landscape are built at each camp to protect tents from the winds. Vision has a short climbing season on the Antarctica continent from mid-November to the end of January. It’s also among the Seven’s most expensive, in the mid $50,000 range for 2024.
Management
One of the most interesting aspects of visiting Antarctica is how it’s managed. Unlike other continents, Antarctica has no native human population and is managed under the Antarctic Treaty System. The treaty was enacted in 1961 and was signed by twelve countries: Argentina, Australia, Belgium, Chile, France, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, South Africa, the Soviet Union, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Scores of scientific research stations were developed, and as of 2024, the treaty has 57 parties.
Logistics
Of all the 7 Summits, Vision ranks at the top, along with Carystensz Pyramid for being the most difficult to reach. Almost all teams will fly to Punta Arenas, Chile, for a pre-climb safety and “Leave No Trace” briefing. Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions, ALE, has a monopoly on all tourism on the continent and conducts the briefing.
There are usually weather delays that can last days or weeks. Eventually, you fly to Union Glacier, the primary base camp, on an ALE 757 plane outfitted with all business class seats. Just a few years ago, all flights used the Russian-built Ilyushin IL-76 TD. Today, it’s used to fly in heavy cargo.
Depending on the weather, you may stay at Union Glacier, 2,633 feet/803 meters, for hours or days before flying to Vinson Base Camp, 6,890 feet/2100 meters on a De Haviland DHC-6 Twin Otter or Basler BT-67 equipped with skis.
Difficulty
I think of Vinson as a little Denali. You have snow, ice, wind and extreme cold but little technical climbing on the normal route. All that said, it’s not one of those climbs you underestimate and will need to train and prepare for diligently. Interestingly, Antarctica has little snowfall or precipitation, so you don’t use snowshoes, but many people will ski the mountain. The standard technique involves carrying a 50-pound/23-kg pack and pulling a sled of similar weight. Again, it is similar to Deanli but with lighter loads.
Routes
There are multiple routes, but the “main” route is the most popular. It involves three camps:
- Vinson Base Camp (VBC): 6,890 feet/2100 meters
- Low Camp (LC): 9,022 feet/2750 meters, 5.6 mles/9 km from VBC, seven hours one-way
- High Camp (HC): 12,139 feet/3700 meters, 3.6 mles/6 km from LC, five hours one-way
- Summit: 16,050 feet/4892 meters, 5.6 mles/9 km from HC, 14 hours round trip
The climbing schedule varies from team to team. Some carry gear to LC from VBC and return before moving to LC; others just make one trek. It’s similar between LC and HC. Often, it depends on the weather forecast.
Climbing
The terrain is a sometimes confusing flat white with no dark objects like rocks to provide perspective. The trek from VB to LC follows the Branscomb Glacier, with the Massif looming straight ahead. Other peaks surround you as you move further north. After making a sharp left turn (West), you follow a start line to LC, which is easy to spot with hopefully abandoned snow walls left from previous parties, thus giving you a break from building your own. You may end up staying at this camp for several days if the winds are too strong at either HC or on the summit. There are crevasses in the area, so please keep in mind when walking to the communal toilet area. All solid waste is collected in WAG bags and returned to Punta Arenas.
ALE provides a daily weather forecast from Union Glacier over the radio; it is often the most exciting part of the day to get the report. Once you get the green light, you move up a short but somewhat steep, 30-40 degrees headwall, clipped into a fixed rope or roped to a teammate until you crest the ridge and arrive at HC. This is an enjoyable day of climbing at a moderate altitude, but the best part is you leave the sled at LC!
Some teams will rest overnight or even a whole day; others will go directly to the summit. The sun doesn’t set in December and January, so ample sunlight exists. Once you are ready, the team gears up with crampons, food, water and layers. The wind can pick up at times without notice, and the air temp can range from 0 to -40F/-18C to -40C. It’s critical to have goggles, your best down puffy jacket and mittens. The pace will be slow but steady as you move through a wide valley with the Massif always ahead, almost mirage-like.
Teams have two options to reach the summit: following the most direct western side route or the slightly longer eastern side. We climbed up the West and descended the East. The summit view is breathtaking. The sky is azure blue like I’d never seen against the stark contrast of an endless view of white, snow-covered land.
Summary
I hope you can see why Vinson is among my favorites. Yes, it’s expensive, but also a climb of a lifetime.
If you want to cover all the Seven Summits angles, here is the list of nine climbs:
- Everest, Nepal – 29,035/8850m
- Aconcagua, Argentina – 22,902/6960m
- Denali, Alaska – 20,320/6194m
- Kilimanjaro, Africa – 19,340/5896m
- Elbrus, Russia – 18,513/5642m
- Vinson, Antarctica – 16,067/4897m
- Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea – 16,023/4884m
- Mt. Blanc, France/Italy – 15,771’/4807m
- Mt. Kościuszko, Australia – 7,310/2228m
Episodes will drop each week:
- September 15: Introduction
- September 22: Mt. Kościuszko, Australia – 7,310/2228m
- September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy – 15,771’/4807m
- October 6: Vinson, Antarctica – 16,067/4897m
- October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea – 16,023/4884m
- October 20: Elbrus, Russia – 18,513/5642m
- October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa – 19,340/5896m
- November 3: Denali, Alaska – 20,320/6194m
- November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina – 22,902/6960m
- November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet – 29,035/8850m
Safe climbing to all.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
Video podcast version of Episode 4: Seven Summits: Vinson Massif
You can listen to my podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.
Summit Coach
If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 25 years of high-altitude mountain experience, including summits of Everest, K2, and Manaslu, and 30 years as a business executive.
