Mount Everest is the highest mountain in Asia and the world, at 29,031.69 feet or 8848.86 meters, making it the highest of the Seven Summits. With seemingly unlimited attraction, climbing Chomolungma has dramatically changed over the decades.
Stradling the border of China (Tibet) and Nepal, it grows by about 0.0063-0.021 inches or 0.16 to 0.53 millimeters annually due to the northward movement of the Indian tectonic plate and a “rebound” effect caused by merging rivers. Everest is so high that it juts into the jetstream, atmospheric winds that typically travel west to east at speeds ranging from 80 to 140 miles per hour but can accelerate up to 275 miles per hour.
Through January 2024, there have been 12,015 summits (5,907 members and 6,108 hired). In other words, more support climbers, primarily Sherpas, have summited than foreigners. Yet more foreigners, 200, have died on Everest than support climbers, 117.
It has become an economic powerhouse, attracting millions into the Nepal economy, an estimated 10% of GDP, through flights, hotels, taxis, restaurants, teahouses, yak herders and massive, dominating guiding enterprises. In 2024, 80% of the Everest summits were on Nepali-owned guide company teams, compared to 20% a decade earlier. However, with that dominance comes a downside: an all-time record 18 climbers died on Everest in 2022. Twenty-six people have died in the last two years climbing Everest; of that total, 23 were clients of Nepali operators. That’s 88% of the total for the two years.
In this last 7 Summits Podcast, I briefly overview the peak and then delve into several topics with guests Adrian Ballinger, founder of Alpenglow and Mike Hamill, founder of Climbing the Seven Summits.
Overview
Mt. Everest is the most famous mountain in the world. It has been drawing climbers for almost a century and is known as Chomolungma in Tibet and Sagarmatha in Nepal.
A British team first attempted the north side in 1922. They reached 27,300′ before turning back. The 1924 British expedition with George Mallory and Andrew Irvine was notable for the mystery of whether they summited or not. Mallory’s body was found in 1999, and Irvine’s foot in a boot in 2024, but there was no proof that they died going up or coming down.
With a British expedition, Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary accomplished the first summit of Mt. Everest in 1953. They took the South Col route, used by most modern expeditions. At that time, the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of 1952. They reached 8500m, well above the South Col. Norgay was with the Swiss, thus giving him the experience he used on the British expedition. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest.
It was a Chinese team who first reached the summit from Tibet on May 25, 1960, by Nawang Gombu (Tibetan) and Chinese Chu Yin-Hau and Wang Fu-zhou, who is said to have climbed the Second Step in his sock feet.
Today, hundreds of climbers worldwide try to stand on top of the world.
Statistics Updated through January 2024
The Himalayan Database reports that through January 2024, there have been 12,015 summits (5,907 members and 6,108 hired) on Everest by all routes by 6,786 different people. Those climbers who have summited multiple times include 1,571 members and 1,048 Sherpa, for 5,333 total summits. There have been 887 summits by women members. The 2024 Spring season statistics are not available.
Summits
The Nepal side is more popular, with 8,369 summits compared to 3,646 summits from the Tibet side. Only 1.9% or 224 climbers summited without supplemental oxygen. A scant 35 climbers have traversed from one side to the other. Member summit success is 40%, with 14,498 making an attempt and 5,907 summiting. About 65% of all expeditions put at least one member on the summit.
Only 668 climbers have summited from both the Nepal and Tibet sides. And even fewer, 155, have summited more than once in a single season, mostly Sherpas. Almost only Sherpas, 78, have summited within seven days of their first summit that season. Kami Rita Sherpa (Thami) holds the record for most summits at 29 and Kenton Cool, UK, at 17 for a non-Sherpa. Seven Sherpa have 20 or more summits. Member climbers from the USA have the most country member summits at 906.
Deaths
As for Everest deaths, 327 people (200 Westerners and 117 Sherpas) died from 1922 to January 2024. These deaths are about 2.7% of those who summited for a death rate of 1.12 of those who attempted to make the summit. Westerners die at a higher rate, 1.38, compared to hired at 0.87.
Descending from the summit bid is deadly, with 120 deaths, or 37% of the total deaths. Female climbers have a lower death rate at 0.81 compared to 1.14 for male climbers, and 14 women have died on Everest. The Nepal side has seen 217 deaths or 2.8%, a rate of 1.14. The Tibet side has experienced 110 deaths or 3%, a rate of 1.08. Climbers from the UK and Japan have the most all-time deaths at 17. Most bodies are still on the mountain, but China has removed many bodies from sight on their side. The top causes of death are avalanches (77), falls (75), altitude sickness (45), and exposure (26).
Latest: Spring 2023
In 2023, there were 674 summits, including only 12 from Tibet, as it was closed to foreigners, but 674 from Nepal (285 members and 389 hired or a 1:1.36 client-to-support ratio.) All but 3 used supplemental oxygen. A record 18 Everest climbers died. 58% of all attempts by members were successful. Of the total, 65 females summited.
Logistics
Gaining climbing permits and organizing logistics from Nepal is infinitely easier than from Tibet, which is complicated by the Chinese bureaucracy. Both sides require a climbing permit. Nepal charges $15,000 per individual permit, which does not include guides, transportation or any other necessity.
Tibet charges between $15,800 and $18,000 per person for a team permit of 4 or more. This price includes transportation from the entry point in China (usually Lhasa or Zhangmu–Kodari) to base camp, hotels, liaison officer, trash fee, five yaks in, and four yaks out per member. In addition, there is an extra charge of $200 per day per person for time spent in Lhasa. If you want to bring a Nepali Sherpa to climb with you in Tibet, budget an additional $4,500 for each Sherpa’s “work permit,” as required by the CTMA, plus a salary of $5,000.
Climbers usually trek through the Khumbu Valley to Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side, a highlight of any Everest experience. Climbers fly generally into Lhasa, Tibet and drive to the base camp on the North side, which is a bit less scenic but offers the opportunity to bring more luxuries to the base camp.
Routes and Dangers
It may be an exaggeration to say that all the routes that can be climbed on Everest have been climbed because a new generation of climbers continuously blazes new trails. However, climbing Everest appears well understood across all aspects of the hill. There are about twenty named routes; almost all have been tried at least once, and most teams reached the summit.
For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes comes down between the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For almost all climbers, all other routes are too dangerous, difficult, and not commercially guided.
Everest is becoming safer even though more people are now climbing. From 1923 to 1999, 170 people died on Everest with 1,170 summits or 14.5%. But the deaths drastically declined from 2000 to 2023, with 10,826 summits and 157 deaths or 1.4%. However, four years skewed the death rates, with 17 in 2014, 14 in 2015, 11 in 2019, and the record 18 in 2023. The reduction in deaths is primarily due to better significantly higher Sherpa support ratios, improved supplemental oxygen at higher flow rates (up to 8 lpm) gear, weather forecasting, and more people climbing with commercial operations.
Of the 8000-meter peaks, Everest has the highest absolute number of deaths (member and hired) at 327 but ranks near the bottom with a death rate of 1.11. Annapurna is the most deadly 8000er, with one death for about every fifteen summits (73:476) or a 3.76 death rate. Cho Oyu is the safest, with 4,044 summits and 52 deaths or a death rate of 0.40, with Lhotse next at 0.38. Of note, 79 Everest member climbers out of 200 members deaths died descending from the summit, or 39%. K2’s death rate has fallen dramatically from the historic 1:4 to around 1:8, primarily due to more commercial expeditions with huge Sherpa support ratios.
Climbing
Today, Everest is considered an achievable climb due to advances in supplemental oxygen, Sherpa support, weather forecasting, clothing and gear technology, and guides using the same route every year. However, no one should underestimate or view it as easy. It is a long ascent that tests your patience, especially with downtime at base camp, long weather delays, and politics.
You need solid cramponing skills on rock and snow at moderately steep angles, especially in the Khumbu Icefall and on the Tibet side. You should also be able to rappel with a pack on. You will use an ascender on the fixed ropes but not climb roped to another person. There is virtually no rock climbing on the Nepal side, but you will climb rock faces on the Tibet side.
Everest expeditions last from two weeks to two months, depending on the acclimatization program. Weather delays are expected. The route and fixed ropes to the summit are usually completed by early May. Most summits occur between May 17th and 21st.
Traditionally, climbers make several acclimatization rotations between EBC and the higher camps to allow their bodies to adjust to the lower oxygen levels. Today, some teams use “altitude tents” and “Pre-acclimatize” at home by sleeping in a pressurized plastic dome for a month or more. This causes the body to react similarly but not identically to what it does on the mountain. This method has reduced Everest climbs from eight to three or even two weeks.
Nepal Side
Nepal has not always been open to foreigners. It opened to foreign climbers in 1949, but only if scientists accompanied them. Bill Tilman led the first major expedition after the borders opened in 1950, which explored the southern approach to Everest.
Everest climbs from Nepal begin in Kathmandu, with a flight to Lukla at 9,500 feet. From there, climbers take about ten days to trek through the Khumbu region. Following a well-defined dirt trail, almost a road, going from teahouse to teahouse until reaching EBC. This is an awesome experience alone, without a climb.
From EBC, you see the Khumbu Icefall, a moving river of glacial ice dropping from the Western Cwm. This is the most challenging section for many climbers. While the Icefall is a dangerous section of the Southeast Ridge, aka South Col route, more people (clients and Sherpas) die elsewhere on the mountain. I used the Himalayan Database and searched for deaths between 5350 and 5940 meters – the altitude range of the Icefall. Of the 220 deaths on the Nepal side, 46 occurred in the Icefall. Virtually all these deaths were Sherpas ferrying loads to camps in the Cwm and above.
The next challenge is the Lhotse Face, between Camps 2 and 3. It’s steep, with hard ice. The route is fixed with a rope. The angles can range from 20 to 45 degrees. From Camp 3, climbers continue higher, crossing the Yellow Band, a rock layer limestone rock layer throughout this part of the Himalayan Range. It’s not difficult to climb, but it can be challenging, given the altitude. Bottlenecks can occur on the Yellow Band.
The summit push begins from the High Camp at almost 8,000 meters or Camp 4. Teams usually leave near midnight and climb the Triangular Face to the Balcony, then up the Southeast Ridge to the South Summit. I think this is the crux of the climb. Then, on to the Hillary Slope, which is now a bit easier after the 2015 earthquake refined the climb from rock to snow climbing. Then, it’s a short walk to the summit.
Tibet Side
Tibet’s access to foreigners has varied over the centuries, driven by political agendas. Access for foreigners eased in 1971, but it was under the rule of China.
The expedition begins with a flight to Kathmandu, Nepal, followed by another flight to Lhasa. Some people may fly directly to Lhasa from their gateway city. Once in Lhasa, you will spend at least two days touring the city and visiting monasteries, including the iconic Potala Palace.
The climbing is often described as more technical on the Tibet side due to less snow and more rock. Thus, you need solid crampon skills for rock and snow at moderate angles, especially on the NE Ridge’s challenging rock steps, and you must be able to rappel with a pack. You’ll use an ascender on the fixed ropes but won’t climb tied to another person.
The route starts at the Chinese Base Camp near the Rongbuk Monastery. After a short rest and acclimatization period, you move to the Interim Camp and the Advanced Base Camp, which serves as a high-altitude home throughout the expedition. Next, you move to the North Col before returning lower to rest. Once the weather window is identified, you return to ABC, the North Col, and begin climbing C1, C2, and C3 high camps and the summit.
Above the North Col is the real deal. Most people use supplemental oxygen at a 2-6 lpm flow rate. The climb to Camp 2 follows a broad snow-covered ridge, with the North and Northeast faces flanking you on either side. This section can be very windy.
Leaving C2 at 7650m, it is primarily a rock plod higher until a little beneath the 8210m C3, when it steepens. Soon, you will arrive at the Yellow Band, a short section of limestone rock, 200-400 feet, but it tests you physically. Next are the cruxes of a Tibet side climb: the Steps.
The First Step consists of a short rock buttress comprising large boulders and limestone bands, climbing through a steep and often loose gully. The second step, at 8000 meters, has a famous ladder installed by the Chinese, and it is where long lines can build up both on the ascent and descent. While it is not technically challenging, the exposure is extreme, causing inexperienced climbers to clench. The third and last Step is between 8,510 and 8,610 meters (28,510 to 28,610 feet). It is 100 feet of blocky rock and not as technically demanding as the Second Step, yet it is still challenging due to the extreme altitude, where climbers are already exhausted. From there, climbers continue to the summit.
Interview with Adrian Ballinger and Mike Hamill
I wanted to talk with Mike and Adrian for different reasons. Both CTSS and Alpenglow safely and successfully guide big peaks worldwide. However, they have very different business models.
Mike started CTSS in 2017 after 15 years as the lead guide with IMG. Today, CTSS has one of the broadest Everest offerings in the industry. He offers a modestly priced Sherpa lead climb to a custom climb with an IFMGA Sherpa or Western guide costing over $100,000. He also offers upscale accommodations at EBC, which is quickly being copied by some operators and shunned by others.
Adrian has specialized on the Tibet side of Everest and has one of the fastest expedition times using what he calls a “Rapid Ascent,” where clients pre0-acclimatize at their homes using a Hypoix altitude tent, thus reducing the need for multiple on-mountain acclimatization rotations. His trips run for 36 days from home to home. His prices are among the industry’s highest at $98,000 with a generous IFMGA Western guide/Sherpa-client-to-client ratio.
Both gentlemen are experts on Everest, and we have covered many topics.
Summary
How does anyone justify training daily for a year, spending tens of thousands of dollars, and taking weeks away from family and work to climb any mountain? I think the only person who needs to know the answer to that question is the individual. There is no need to justify climbing to anyone. However, you must know your reason and why with clarity and certainty. During my first call with a prospective Summit Coach client, we go deep into this.
Everest is a personal investment that is hard for non-climbers and many climbers to understand. The raw nature of climbing it strips away any veneer of pretense and exposes who you are. If you are open to self-discovery, you will return home, changed for the better.
Everest is the mountain people love to hate. And the press thrives on lousy news from the giant peak. Don’t get distracted by the picture of long lines leading to the summit, a one-off event driven by the weather in 2019. Don’t be discouraged by the pictures of trash. There is a sliver of truth to it, but authorities and guides are working hard to correct the mistakes of previous teams. And don’t buy the tired old line that you step over dead bodies; they are everywhere. Yes, if someone died on the previous day, you may see them before they can be retrieved or moved, but I never saw a body on my four climbs.
You don’t have to climb Everest to enjoy the sport of mountaineering. There are mountains in almost every country that offer challenges and rewards. The main point is, just get out there and have some fun.
If you want to cover all the Seven Summits angles, here is the list of nine climbs:
- Everest, Nepal – 29,035/8850m
- Aconcagua, Argentina – 22,902/6960m
- Denali, Alaska – 20,320/6194m
- Kilimanjaro, Africa – 19,340/5896m
- Elbrus, Russia – 18,513/5642m
- Vinson, Antarctica – 16,067/4897m
- Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea – 16,023/4884m
- Mt. Blanc, France/Italy – 15,771’/4807m
- Mt. Kościuszko, Australia – 7,310/2228m
The series is over. The episodes included:
- September 15: Introduction
- September 22: Mt. Kościuszko, Australia – 7,310/2228m
- September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy – 15,771’/4807m
- October 6: Vinson, Antarctica – 16,067/4897m
- October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea – 16,023/4884m
- October 20: Elbrus, Russia – 18,513/5642m
- October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa – 19,340/5896m
- November 3: Denali, Alaska – 20,320/6194m
- November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina – 22,902/6960m
- November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet – 29,035/8850m
Safe climbing to all.
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
Podcast Series: 7 Summits Episode 10–Everest with Adrian Ballinger & Mike Hamill
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If you dream of climbing mountains but are unsure how to start or reach your next level, from a Colorado 14er to Rainier, Everest, or even K2, we can help. Summit Coach is a consulting service that helps aspiring climbers throughout the world achieve their goals through a personalized set of consulting services based on Alan Arnette’s 25 years of high-altitude mountain experience, including summits of Everest, K2, and Manaslu, and 30 years as a business executive.
