The winter season has begun for three of the 8000ers: Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna. Some have ended before they started.
Jost Kobush tags 7537m on West Ridge
German Alpinist Jost Kobusch has accomplished his objective of a winter, solo, no-O’s climb to reach over 7500 meters on Everest’s West Ridge. He made it in six days after arriving at base camp. He’s now back lower to let his body recover and see if the weather will allow him another climb, perhaps higher.
He began his climb on December 21, 2024, the winter solstice and reached his goal on December 27. It’s crucial to understand that his goal is knowledge, not the summit, as it has been for the previous climbs. This exact style and route have never been attempted.
Youst is no stranger to tough climbing challenges, preferring solo and light as his style. He summited Denali solo in February 2023 via the Messner Couloir. He’s also nabbed Annapurna in 2016 at age 25. He has spent the last month in Nepal climbing lower peaks to acclimate to his Everest climb.
In 2019/20, Jost’s high point was 7,329 meters/23,750 feet. In 2021/22, he tagged 7300 meters before the weather shut him down. He wanted to return last year, 2023/24, but an injury forced him to cancel.
In his own words, he posted the mission on Instagram:
On Friday I decided that I would go above 7500m – an inner goal that I had set for myself as I wanted to see how effective I could move with a minimalistic approach.
When I reached my old high point from 2020 at 7366m the sun was already setting but I prefer to start a bit late so that I don’t freeze my toes off in the morning – a warmed up body moves way better, even when it’s already night.
I kept following the ridge until my watch pointed out 7537m – that’s when I decided that I had achieved my goal in going higher on the west ridge in winter than anybody before me.
I returned to my tent at 6800m quickly after. The route worked really well but is exposed to the strong winds…
To me it doesn’t matter how the team achieved 7500m in 1984 or how many high altitude porters they had and what kind of infrastructure they used – I have even seen pictures of a cable car installation to get gear up to Lho La to 6100m.
I have my own standards and measure myself according to them. For me this project is a puzzle to solve and I know I made one tiny step further into the unknown.
I’m very happy to learn that an alpine style solo attempt has chances and learned A LOT about the strategy I will need to implement to be able to reach the summit in this style
You can follow his climb on the excellent tracking map at 3D Reality Maps, using Zoleo, and on his social media channels, Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and website.
I did two interviews with Jost at:
- Podcast with Jost Kobusch’s Winter 2023/24 Everest West Ridge Attempt
- Video Interview with Jost Kobusch’s Winter 2021/22 Everest West Ridge Attempt
Moro on Ama Before Manaslu
Italian Simone Moro is back for the sixth winter attempt on Manaslu, the eighth-highest at 8,163m/26,782 ft. He prefers winter climbing, especially on 8000ers, with four first winter ascents: Shishapangma, 2005; Makalu, 2009; Gasherbrum II, 2011; and Nanga Parbat, 2016. His partners are Nima Rinji Sherpa, the youngest to summit all 14 800ers, Polish climber and filmmaker Oswald Rodrigo Pereira.
Pereira notes, “No mountaineer in history has ever climbed an 8,000-meter peak in winter using pure alpine style—without fixed ropes, supplementary oxygen, guided support, or fixed camps.”
They are acclimatizing on Ama Dablam, where Nima Rinji reported: “Got a taste of my first winter expedition, and the cold is truly on another level. Yesterday at Camp 1 on Ama Dablam, the temperature hit -33°C, pushing me to embrace the raw beauty and harshness of winter climbing.”
Txikon Over on Annapurna
Alex Txikon wanted a winter climb in Annapurna but developed appendicitis and was evacuated to Kathmandu for surgery. He is resting there now.
The plans of the two climbers with him, young Pakistani climber Sajid Ali Sadpara and Italian Mattia Conte, Pole Waldemar Kowalewski, are unknown.
Txikon’s media team posted on Instagram:
Alex is recovering well after undergoing emergency surgery for appendicitis in Kathmandu. The appendicitis surgery he underwent was successfully completed and the mountaineer is now out of danger. Although his evolution is favorable, specialists have recommended total rest for the time being
Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything
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The winter season has begun for three of the 8000ers: Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna. Each is unique in style, and professional climbers are at the helm.
One thought on “2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs Update 1”
Thank you! I look forward to your updates! I am still working on finishing your last series on YouTube, my husband and I have had our two mothers needing our help the past few months but all is looking up for them now. Thank you again and Happy New Year!
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