Everest 2025: Winds are Retuning –Summit Now or Later?

Everest teams are staggered on the Nepalese side, from Camp 1 (AAI) to Camp 2 (Madison) at the South Col (Summit Climb), aiming to reach the summit before a forecasted high wind hits on the afternoon of May 20. Alternatively, a better strategy might be to wait for a predicted period of several days with low winds. One commercial team summited on the Tibetan side on Monday, May 19th. 

I will update this post as the summit progresses on Monday, May 19, 2025, on both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides.

Summit Climb encapsulated the situation well:

May 18 – Its now 8:47pm on 18 May. Our team climbed up from Camp 3 today, reaching camp 4, the South Col,  this afternoon and rested in the tents, drinking tea, soup and eating freeze dried meals. Our original plan was to take a rest day on the South Col tomorrow and head up to Everest summit tomorrow night. However the weather has been less than cooperative. A big wind storm is forecast to come in tomorrow afternoon and then blow hard for two days. Thus the only realistically available summit window is tonight. OMG. That means only a few hours rest to eat and fill water bottles. We are tired from today’s climb from C3 to C4, but what to do??? In order to boost our morale, spirits, and energy for tonight’s ascent, Mote Sherpa is going to carry four extra bottles of Oxygen from the South Col up to the balcony so we can keep our oxygen settings a bit higher than we normally would, granting us that extra margin of safety and strength. PLEASE WISH US LUCK! Thank you very much!

Furtenbach claimed a Tibet side summit on May 19 all on their own: “All our North side Flash team summited this morning 5:30am, they only team on the North side today and first foreign team to summit. They are on their way down.”

These are the remaining teams to watch (I may have missed a few). 

On the Tibetan side:

Other teams on the Tibetan side that will ascend before the end of the month include Alpenglow, a Chinese team; Climbalaya Treks & Expeditions; Himalaya Expeditions; Kobler & Partner; and Imagine Nepal.

American Tyler Andrews, 34, will make a second attempt at the speed record for ascending Everest, starting at 11:30 pm Nepal Time, May 22. He had boot issues the first time. Karl Egloff, also making a speed run, round-trip run without O’s,

“Powered by Xenon”

If the plan Garth Miller laid out on his IG account holds, they should have arrived at EBC on May 18, moved to Camps 1 and 2 within the following day, or even that evening. The four are currently on the climb: @therealgarthmiller, @alcarns, @stazthrudark, and @kevgodlington. You can follow them at #Livetrack.

In addition to the climb, they aim to highlight the veterans’ community and their welfare, and to raise £1 million for many Armed Forces and Veterans’ charities, including those that support bereaved military families. You can donate at this link.

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything


Death Total–Ten across the Himalayas

1, 2. April 8–Annapurna: Rinje Sherpa and Ngima Tashi Sherpa, avalanche on Annapurna while working for Seven Summits Treks.

3. April 26–Ama Dablam: Austrian Martin Hornegger, 64, died descending Ama Dablam after summit.

4. May 12–Kanchenjunga: French climber Margareta Morin, 63, died ascending Kanchenjunga, climbing with Peak 15 Adventure.

5. May 5–Makalu: American Alexander (Alex) Pancoe, 39, died at Camp 2, climbing with Madison Mountaineering.

Everest–Five Deaths

1 April 2–Nepali Lanima Sherpa, 55, reportedly died due to high altitude sickness at EBC with an unidentified expedition operator.

2. Early May, Ngima Dorji Sherpa died at EBC from reportedly a brain hemorrhage. He worked for Seven Summits Treks.

3 May 4–Pen Chhiri Sherpa reportedly had a heart attack at Camp I while working for TAG Nepal.

4. May 15–Filipino Philipp II Santiago, 45, reportedly died of unknown causes at C4 on his Everest ascent with Snowy Horizon.

5. May 16, 2025,  West Bengal, Indian, Subrata Ghosh, 45, died near the Hillary Step after summiting with Snowy Horizon.


Nepal Permit Update

Estimates vary, but at least 129 people summited Everest today, May 18th, on both the Nepalese, bringing the total to around 275, with 119 members supported by 156 Sherpas or support climbers. This results in a client-to-support ratio of 1:3. With an estimated 446 foreign permits issued by Nepal and a dropout rate of approximately 40%, there are likely around 150 clients or members remaining to summit on the Nepal side.

Across Nepal’s climbing peaks, through April 25, 2025, the Ministry of Tourism collected USD 5.2 million in royalties, with Everest accounting for USD 4.6 million. Thus far, 1,025 permits have been issued for 26 mountains this spring, with climbers from the US topping the nationality list at 151, followed by India at 124.  This is the 2025 tally for the 8000ers with the latest for Everest only as the Nepal Government has not made the others public:

8000erTeamsMale ClientsFemale ClientsTotal
Annapurna I6491766
Cho Oyu
Dhaulagiri29615
Everest45+354+76+446
Kanchenjunga4261541
Lhotse98522107
Makalu7601777
Manaslu
TOTALS71++582++151++1025

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything


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