By Alan Arnette6 min read

Everest 2026: Another Wave of Summits

We had at least 50 more summits on Monday morning, May 25th, 2026. I’m estimating there have been over 900 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions, with those left targeting the 27th. The Icefall Docs say they will remove the ladders on the 29th.

FNT – Valid or Not, after use of Os?

American trail runner Tyler Andrews made a shortened “trial run” on Friday evening to attempt to set the record for the fastest ascent and descent to the summit without supplemental oxygen, but stopped above C3 and began using O2. He will try again. I understand that the Himlaayan Database supports his second attempt with no Os on the 27th, and that his previous trial climb with Os does not invalidate his no-Os summit if he makes it. This was a different ruling for Ryan Mitchell, who used Os when he got sick at EBC and returned home. You can follow Tyler on his site.

Monday Summits – 50+

Garrett Madiosn had a good climb:

Hello! This is Garrett checking in for the Madison Mountaineering Everest (8848m/29,032ft) team.

We are all up at the South Col at Camp 4 (7900m/25,919ft) on Mount Everest. And today, we’re so proud of our main team that summited, led by Cacho, J.P, Aang Phurba Sherpa, along with eight climbers. That’s Rich, Brandon, Andy, Ashley, Pratyay, Frank, Francisco, and Tom. All the climbers who were up here at the South Col went for the summit and made it, along with the guide team and 16 Nepal Sherpas, 16 of our stellar Sherpas. We’re so proud of them! So that’s, I think 24 members from the Madison Mountaineering team, Sherpas and climbers, 26 maybe who summited.

Myself, along with Jeff Arnold, Terray Sylvester, and Reid Tileston are up here at the South Col now, along with Siddhi, Ardi, and Hada Sherpa. We’re getting ready to go for our summit attempt. We’re probably going to aim for the morning of the 27th at this point.

So everyone’s doing well, everyone’s safe, everyone’s happy. And we’re just so excited our main team all made it to the top, 100% success for everyone that was up here at the South Col and left to go for the summit attempt. Great job, team!

Fingers crossed we’ll some good weather and conditions for the last four of us and our Sherpa team here on the 27th! All’s well here at high camp 4 on Everest, 26,000 feet, 8,000 meters. We’ll check in soon!

  • Madison Mountaineering – 8 members, 3 Guides with 16 Sherpas for 27 (26?) summits
  • Alpine Ascents International – 3? members with 1 guide and 7 sherpas for 11 summit (estimates)
  • Elete Expeditions – 1 member (16 y/o) with 3 Sherpas for 4 summits 
  • Summit Climb – 1 member with 1 Sherpa for 2 summits

More to Come

My initial estimate of 800 summits has been exceeded, with the total now approaching 900—an impressive milestone. Climbers departed the South Col on Sunday night in breezy conditions, and we have no updates on Austrian Sabrina Finzmoser, who is attempting Everest without supplemental oxygen. She reported strong winds at Camp 4 before starting her ascent. 

There is no update from Kristin Harila, who summited Nuptse (7,861 m) and Lhotse (with Os), and is scheduled to attempt Everest next. It’s unknown if she will use oxygen.  She is climbing with Mingtemba Sherpa.

Look for more from Madison Mountaineering, Summit Climb, targeting May 27th for the summit. Garret told me the Icefall Docs will remove the ladders on May 29, so the clock is ticking.

Tibet Side Climbing

China closed its side of Everest, Cho Oyu and Shishapangma to foreign climbers for reasons unknown. However, there are Chinese climbers on the Tibet side, and as usual, we haven’t received any updates.

Other 8000ers – Summits

There were a few more summits by the Nepali operators on Manaslu, Kangchunga, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Makalu, with scores of summits over the past few weeks.
 

Nepal Permit Update

As of May 15, 2026, Nepal has issued 1,181 climbing permits to 142 teams across 30 peaks, bringing in $8.43 million US dollars in permit fees, with Everest accounting for $7.1 million. Everest climbers are from 55 countries. China has the most climbers at 109, followed by the U.S. at 77, India at 61 and the UK at 32. There are 105 female climbers on Everest this season. This is the current tally for the 8000ers. 

8000erTeams  Male ClientsFemale ClientsTotal
Annapurna I419827
Dhaulagiri4181230
Everest51389105494
Kanchenjunga4231336
Lhotse149944143
Makalu11512172
Manaslu1202
TOTALS89601203804

Climb On!
Alan
Memories are Everything

Death Total—Seven across the Himalaya 

Other 8000ers—Two Deaths

May 10—Makalu II, Czech climber, David Roubínek, 38, fell ill at high altitude and died while being assisted down from Camp III.

May 10—Makalu, American Shelley Johannesen, 59, was struck by an avalanche around 7,000 meters during her descent after summiting. Expedition Himalaya supported her.

Everest–Five (four climbing) Deaths

  1. May 22-Indian climber, Sandeep Are, died descending after summitting with Pioneer Adventures
  2. May 22-Indian climber, Arun Kumar Tiwari, died descending after summitting with Pioneer Adventures
  3. May 3, Lakpa Dendi Sherpa, 51, from Gudel village, died at about 5,200 meters on his way to Everest Base Camp.
  4. 2. May 10—Bijaya Ghimire Bishwakarma, 35, the first Nepali Dalit climber to summit Mount Everest, died on Sunday while ascending from Base Camp to Camp. He worked for TAG Nepal
  5. 3. May 11—Phura Gyaljen Sherpa, 20, from Thame village, slipped and fell at around 7,000m on the Lhotse Face, just below Camp 3.

The Podcast on alanarnette.com

You can listen to #everest2026 podcasts on Spotify, Apple, Breaker, Pocket Casts, Anchor, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.

Previous Everest 2026 Season Coverage Posts

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