Everest 2021: Weekend Update plus Final Summit Bid
This was a tough week on Everest with Cyclone Yaas pummeling the Hill with heavy snow. Most teams have wisely ended their season but one or two are still pulling their clients higher. Thankfully, the Cyclone appears to have moved on.
Everest 2021: Weather Relents, Unclear Plans
Heavy snow has finally ended but there is talk of avalanches, stolen oxygen and the Icefall Doctors extending maintaining the route a few more days. Dan Mazur of Summit Climb made news with a dramatic post telling that Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face was destroyed by an avalanche. His source was an unnamed Sherpa: 28 May – Challenging Weather + Team Dynamics – Storm intensifies; all 20 of us remain pinned down in basecamp by driving wind blowing horizontal curtains of blasted snow chunks/flakes, steady drumroll of whipping prayer flags + flapping nylon. We may feel nervous here in bc, but can you imagine whats happening in the camps above us? We say our prayers for them as we listen to roaring low base notes of 1 million tons fresh heavy wet snow peeling off rock and ice face above us, avalanche boiling down onto moraine beside our tents, stopping there…For now. Today a Sherpa tells us Camp 3 was pulverised by an avalanche sweeping the Lhotse Face. All other teams take note: If you need it, we are here to help. Our team is dividing into 4 groups: 1) those who want to walk down now 2) those who want to wait and helicopter 3) those who want climb up and retrieve our gear 4) those who want to wait for yaks on 31 May. The story is strong within the Sherpa community but no direct, confirmed word from C3. That said, obviously there was an event. Just don’t know the extent of any damage. Helicopters are flying again from base camp. A member from the Altitude Junkies team told me directly: Sneaked in our choppers this morning before the weather closed again Also confirmed directly with Garrett Madison that some of team flew or trekked out. I’ve mentioned this before but the SPCC’ Icefall Doctors agreed to maintain the route between EBC and C2 through June 4 according their Facebook post. Last Up – UPDATED These are expected to nab the last opportunity of the season at the end of May but it’s unclear to me with the lack of solid information what are their plans. To be fair, so are they probably. I suspect they’ll send a reconnaissance team to C3 and the Col to determine what’s there from tents to oxygen and fuel. Rumors abound on damaged and missing gear. With the route in they have time now that the storm had subsided (but fir how long until winds and/or the monsoon begins? Anyway lots of questions and speculation. I’ve seen estimates of a couple hundred people up there. That would greatly surprise me but I’ve been surprised before!! I’d guess under 100. Climbalaya officially canceled; 29-05-21: Due to the heavy snowfall for the past few days , we have accessed that there will be high risks in continuing our climb above camp II. In this regard, we announce the cancellation of our summit bid and also the end of the expedition. Climbing members are currently descending to base camp and are all safe. This is sad and unfortunate and a difficult decision to make ,but keeping the lives of our clients and Sherpas safe will always remain our top priority. Confirmed at C2: Elite says they are going to C3 aiming to summit on the 31st. Climbalaya – Officially Cancelled Elite Expeditions Hungarian, Csaba Varga, without Os Expected by not confirmed: 7 Summits Club ?? Seven Summits Treks ?? Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything The Podcast on alanarnette.com You can listen to #everest2021 podcasts on Spotify, Apple Podcast, Breaker, Google Podcasts, Pocket Casts, RadioPublic, Anchor, YouTube, and more. Just search for “alan arnette” on your favorite podcast platform.
Everest 2021: Weather Hold
Heavy snow continues on Everest, but a couple of teams at C2 hoping for a summit window from May 29-31.
Garrett Madison tells me from Base Camp around 10 am Friday, May 28, “Snowing hard here in EBC..climbers worried now about too much snow & avalanche danger on the Lhotse face…SPCC closing the icefall May 31, if climbers stay longer up high they might need to helicopter out from C2”
Everest 2021: Delays Due to Cyclone Yaas
Heavy snow was reported on Everest, but some teams are reporting low winds. Once again, the truth is opaque on Everest. The gag order by the Nepal government has had a dramatic impact on teams’ willingness to share any information that could be construed as negative, thus all the happy talk. A handful of teams are still eyeing the end of the month for one last try.
Cyclone Yaas is expected to touch Everest for another 24 to 48 hours or until May 29, thus leaving an opening as early as Saturday but more likely Sunday and Monday. No doubt any team trying to make this last chance will be met with deep snow. It will take a strong group of many Sherpas to break trail. Avalanche risk may be present especially since the teams will not have the choice to wait a day or two for the layers to bond.
Meanwhile, in a press release, Nepal’s home ministry calls expedition agencies and tourism officials ‘to make an immediate return of climbers from mountains.” Most computer-based weather forecasts call for winds to decrease to under 15 mph starting on Sunday, May 30.
Everest 2021: More Cancellations due to COVID and Wind
If it’s not COVID, it’s the winds. two more teams end their expedition early telling climbers, “it’s over.” A handful are still eyeing the end of the week for one last try.
With Cyclone Yaas making landfall in India, the winds are touching Everest. Nepal’s Meteorological Forecasting Division said the storm is now in the process of ‘weakening’, but will impact the weather in Nepal till Saturday. Not good news for those holding for it to pass. The Icefall Docs said they will shut down the route on May 31, Saturday. However, they might be talked into another extension.
Everest 2021: Wind Watch
With Cyclone Yaas making landfall in India, the winds are touching Everest. The past 24 to 48 hours have been a bit difficult for teams descending from the Monday morning summit. Other teams are holding for the storm to pass aiming for summit bids later this week. Some random points from this season.
Everest 2021: Summit Wave 4 Wrap Up, 4th Death
The 2021 season is winding down with fewer climbers on each wave. Sadly, a Sherpa died at the South Col. It appears that less than 25 summited on Tuesday morning with some teams still holding back waiting to see how Cyclone Yaas will impact the mountain. Many operators are targeting the morning of May 26 for summits.
Everest 2021: Summit Wave 4 – Update #1
Teams are headed for the summit tonight, Sunday, May 23, 2021, aiming for Monday morning summits.
With the Icefall now being opened to May 31, the remaining teams at base camp will have the option of sitting out any impact from Cyclone Yaas on Tuesday and targeting May 27th or 28th for their summit and returning by the end of the month to base camp.
Everest 2021: Weekend Update plus Cyclone Update
A big day of summits on Sunday, May 23, 2021, albeit in blustery conditions. I estimate over 40 members supported by a stunning 67 Sherpas summited. It appears a similar number is headed up Sunday night for a Monday morning summit before snow and winds return. Lhotse also had many summits.
Everest 2021: Summit Wave 3 Wrap Up
A big day of summits on Sunday, May 23, 2021, albeit in blustery conditions. I estimate over 40 members supported by a stunning 67 Sherpas summited. It appears a similar number is headed up Sunday night for a Monday morning summit before snow and winds return. Lhotse also had many summits.