Category: K2

Several teams banded together to summit K2 on the morning of July 28, 2024, while on the other side of the mountain, two Japanese climbers apparently died in a fall. There were also many summits on nearby Broad Peak. Of note this season was the large number of Pakistanis who summited or served as High-Altitude Workers (HAW) for the commercial teams.

Most teams noted the number of clients with support who summited while others did not. I’ll try to update this post when we get more information. #k2024

This summer has been Karakorum’s most variable weather season, with mostly high winds delaying or stopping many summit efforts and, in some cases, even acclimatization rotations. However, as become the custom these days, teams will band together at the last possible moment to follow the rope team, hoping to summit and descend before the winds return. It’s always a gamble.  #k2024

Summit pushes are underway for K2 based on hope than science. The weather has been fairly unstable this season. Meanwhile, the nearby 8000ers have already seen a few summits.

This summer has been Karakorum’s most variable weather season, with mostly high winds delaying or stopping many summit efforts and, in some cases, even acclimatization rotations. However, as become the custom these days, teams will band together at the last possible moment to follow the rope team, hoping to summit and descend before the winds return. It’s always a gamble.  #k2024

Bad weather is damping activity in Pakistan, but for some, it’s the worst case with access to limited Internet! Climbing team updates are sparse. Most are doing the time-honored Base Camp Wait, while others demonstrate the classic “summit fever” mistake by going on their summit push in marginal weather. #k2024

Climbing across the Karakorum is underway with the first summits of this 2024 summer season on Nanga Parbat. Ropes are nearing the high camps on K2.

The Pakistani Newspaper Dawn reports that the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department has issued over 1,700 permits to foreign climbers, of which 175 permits have been issued to scale K2.

A notable person in the Karakorum this season is Sajid Ali Sadpara, the son of Mohammad Ali Sadpara, who perished on K2 a few years ago and will attempt a no Os climb of K2 in addition to Broad Peak. #k2024

The Pakistani government has issued an exhaustive report on the July 27, 2023, death of Pakistani High Altitude Porter, Mr. Muhammad Hassan. While no one team or individual was found culpable, it exposed deep issues across the mountaineering industry that must be fixed.

It is sad and interesting reading that didn’t find any one person or team solely responsible for his death but haphazard coordination among the operators, ignoring long-established Pakistani climbing rules, and a lack of training and resources. All complicated by a sudden storm at the steepest and most dangerous terrain of the mountain. #k2023

The K2 season appears to be over, with an estimated 112+ summits by at least six teams. Multiple teams turned back on their summit push due to unstable conditions. Each of Pakistan’s five 8000ers saw summits this summer in what could be called a “difficult weather” season. On K2, it felt like there was only one suitable weather window, July 27, and it was mixed. All of the K2 summits used the Abruzzi (SE Ridge) route. At least one team is still planning on a Broad Peak attempt.. #k2023