Everest 2021: Will the Everest Season be Cancelled?

Alan sick in the Karakorum

A provocative headline, I know, so I won’t bury the lead. In my opinion only a slight chance, so, no, the Nepal officials will not cancel the season as many thought they did in 2014 and 2015 (technically, they never did cancel). However, individual teams may cancel as we see some well-known teams with multiple cases.

Before I get too deep into this, climbing continues with teams throughout the Western Cwm. A collapse of an “ice wall” high in the Icefall almost hit two people but they survived. The route was closed and the Ice Docs will do their magic to open it back up.

Also, if you love Everest and her history and one of the best climbers today, check out my interview with Kenton Cool.

Everest 2021: Interview with the UK’s Kenton Cool

Kenton Cool

Kenton Cool is one of the premier climbers from the United Kingdom. Among his many accomplishments, he skied the 8000er Cho Oyu, made the first, and thus far only, climb of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse in seven days in 2013. And he has summited Everest 14 times. He’s currently on Everest with a client attempting his 15th which would tie American Dave Hahn for the most non-Sherpa summits of Everest.

I caught up with Kenton while he was in Namache Bazzar recovering from his acclimatization rotations in prep for the summit bid. We discussed the allure of Everest, a bit of history, his own long-time interaction with the mountain, and the conditions this year.

It’s a fun, fascinating interview I hope you enjoy.

Everest 2021: Weekend Update May 2

It’s clear that there is or has been COVID at Everest Base Camp. Well, at least it clear that people who had it there were taken to Kathmandu where they tested positive and are receiving treatment. It’s also clear that Nepal is seeing a huge spike in new cases and has gone under lockdown once again. Finally, it’s clear that India has become a super-spreader country and needs global help to respond.

Nepal tourism officials continue to deny there are any problems at base camp other than one person who had pneumonia. The guides, both foreign and domestic, are posting only climbing updates with no mention of the virus. This includes those who are well-known to have multiple cases within their teams and some who have been evacuated.

Now, on to climbing. Many, many teams are doing their rotations and report no issues. Of course, there are the usual problems with a few people having altitude issues or GI problems, but this is to be expected each year. The conditions are reported as good, albeit with the Lhotse Face being a bit harder than normal due to the lack of snow. Also, the Khumbu Icefall appears to be in good shape, however, the route is taking a bit longer than in previous years but not being a major obstacle. There are a few comments on lines at the few ladders due to the record number of climbers on the mountain in the spring of 2021.

At last count, Nepal has issued a record 408 Everest permits.

Everest 2021: What Virus?

Well, after yesterday’s headline of “The Covid situation at EBC is a total shitstorm” it’s business as usual for most teams on Everest. I even got this comment from Alpine Ascents, “Maybe their Basecamp is a “shitshow”, ours is not.” Another comment called the post, “publishing one woman’s hysterical account does a disservice to those who really are trying for a safe and successful season.” OK, so there you have it. Meanwhile, the government continues to deny any issues at all.

The weather continues to be good for this time of the season with day-time highs near freezing at base camp. The ropes are to the South Col and expected to reach the summit soon.  The virus is definitely the main topic throughout Nepal with the country locking down and limiting travel in and out. But at Everest Base Camp, it seems like a mixed bag. Some teams think the virus is much to do about nothing, while others are worried. Hard to tell facts from fiction or denial. So, let’s look at what the non-hysterical teams are saying:

Everest 2021: “The Covid situation at EBC is a total shitstorm. I had no clue what I was flying into.”

Nepal issued even more Everest and Lhotse permits smashing the 2019 record. Now at 408 for Everest and 123 for Lhotse but the real headline is from Gina Marie Han-Lee:

I have taken a helicopter out of EBC back to Kathmandu after 1 day. The Covid situation at EBC is a total shitstorm. I had no clue what I was flying into. It felt asinine to even be there. It was a heartbreaking decision but I’m putting my health first. Covid at a high altitude does not sound like something I want to play with. \Will hopefully fly home within the next couple of days and focus on K2 for June. There’s just way too many people at EBC this year. Wishing all of the climbers there to be safe and successful but this girl is getting the hell out of dodge.

Everest 2021: The Missing Jet Stream

Everest Jet Stream April 26

The headlines for last week are COVID and record permits. Four people have been evacuated either from Everest Base Camp or very close with symptoms of COVID-19. Once in Kathmandu, they tested positive for the virus. It’s a similar story for a few Sherpas. Look for the ropes to reach the summit this next week.

Without a doubt, the virus is in the Khumbu and spreading. The open question will be if it can be contained at EBC. Complicating the situation is Nepal’s limitless issuance of permits, now topping 400, blasting through the 2019 record year of 382. Meanwhile, there are 40 people on the Chinese side that include 21 climbers.

Everest 2021: What is Nepal Hiding about COVID at Everest Base Camp?

Helicopter evac from Gorak Shep

An Opinion Piece

Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism has a long history of stifling the truth regarding Mt. Everest. However, this spring of 2021 is a new high or, better said, a new low. The COVID-19 virus appears to be spreading quickly throughout EBC and the Khumbu, with frequent evacuations to Kathmandu, where individuals are testing positive for the virus. Still, there are no official comments, and worse, there is denial. A few climbers and trekkers have chronicled their stories on social media, but that is the tip of the iceberg. The cases could ten times the four that have been reported.

Everest 2021: Weekend Update April 25 – COVID and Records

The headlines for last week are COVID and record permits. Four people have been evacuated either from Everest Base Camp or very close with symptoms of COVID-19. Once in Kathmandu, they tested positive for the virus. It’s a similar story for a few Sherpas. Look for the ropes to reach the summit this next week.

Without a doubt, the virus is in the Khumbu and spreading. The open question will be if it can be contained at EBC. Complicating the situation is Nepal’s limitless issuance of permits, now topping 400, blasting through the 2019 record year of 382. Meanwhile, there are 40 people on the Chinese side that include 21 climbers.