Podcast with Adrian Ballinger, Alpenglow: Records, Rescues, Deaths and More

The past few months have been difficult in the mountaineering world. We have seen climbs on many 800ers that turned out tragically: Mohammed Hassan on K2, Anna Gutu, Migmar Sherpa, American Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa on Shishapangma. A few dramatic rescues and a neverending quest for records.

I turned to long-time alpinist Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, to try and make sense of what’s going on, what can be done to prevent these seemingly preventable deaths and if the pursuit of records is worth the risks. We also discuss his return to Everest planned for 2024 after missing the last four seasons, due to China’s closure of their side of Everest.

Podcast Interview with Kristin Harila

Norwegian Kristin Harila, 37, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa summited all fourteen 8000ers in three months and 1 day (92 days.) The first was Shishapangma on April 26, 2023, and the last K2 on July 27, 2023. In 2022, Harila summited twelve of the fourteen, but China refused them entry into Tibet to attempt Shishapangma and Cho Oyu thus, she returned this year to complete her project.

Harila’s journey was not with controversy. They included switching teams and Sherpas from 2022 to 2023, using helicopters to fly Sherpas to Camp 2 on Manaslu, and the one that caught global attention when a High Altitude Porter, Muhammad Hassan, not climbing with her team died on K2. Her team gave aid, but he died. A video taken hours later showed other climbers, not Harila’s team stepping over the dead body on the way to the summit. Harila was widely criticized for his death, yet her team did everything to save his life.

The Pakistani government investigated the incident and posted a detailed report clearing Harila’s team of any wrongdoing and gave her photographer, Gabriel Tarso, an “appreciation letter” for his effort to save a life that night. We explore all of these controversies in detail in this podcast. #k2023

K2 2023 Coverage: Harila and Tenjen Cleared on Muhammad Hassan’s Death

The Pakistani government has issued an exhaustive report on the July 27, 2023, death of Pakistani High Altitude Porter, Mr. Muhammad Hassan. While no one team or individual was found culpable, it exposed deep issues across the mountaineering industry that must be fixed.

It is sad and interesting reading that didn’t find any one person or team solely responsible for his death but haphazard coordination among the operators, ignoring long-established Pakistani climbing rules, and a lack of training and resources. All complicated by a sudden storm at the steepest and most dangerous terrain of the mountain. #k2023

K2 2023 Coverage: Sherpas Dominate K2

Altitude Junkies Sherpas

The K2 season appears to be over, with an estimated 112+ summits by at least six teams. Multiple teams turned back on their summit push due to unstable conditions. Each of Pakistan’s five 8000ers saw summits this summer in what could be called a “difficult weather” season. On K2, it felt like there was only one suitable weather window, July 27, and it was mixed. All of the K2 summits used the Abruzzi (SE Ridge) route. At least one team is still planning on a Broad Peak attempt.. #k2023

K2 2023 Coverage: K2 Summit Push Begins, Kristin Harila gets #13

Approaching K2 Summit 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

The time has come for teams to climb K2 from base camp to the summit. There are about 250 people on the mountain, so it will be interesting to see how potential crowds are managed at the limited campsites and traditional bottleneck areas. The weather forecasts call for consistent light snow with moderate winds; however, this peak is notorious for making its own weather, so nothing is off the table. The teams want to get the fixed ropes to the summit by Monday, July 24, 2023… #k2023

K2 2023 Coverage: And the Summits Keep Going on BP, GI and GII

Record summits are happening all over Pakistan this summer, including Broad Peak, GII and even GI. Pakistan has joined Nepal is monetizing their 8000ers with record permits issued this season. Pakistan reportedly issued a record number of climbing permits this year, even after a record 1,937 visitors to the Northern Territories last year. This despite raising the permit for their flagship peak, K2, from $5000 to 12,000 for a seven-member group.. #k2023