Wave 1 Recap (updated)
May 22nd, 2010 will be a day recorded in history: the youngest person to summit Everest and the person with the most summits in history on the same same day yet from different sides. Apa Sherpa at age 47 made his 20th summit with the Eco Everest team and on the other side of the mountain, 13 year-old Jordan Romero along with his dad and Sherpa team made the top of the world, his 6th of the 7 summits. What a day. Jordan showed his strength by going directly from camp 2 to the summit. I am not sure of the exact time but believe it was around 9 hours. They are reported to be back at camp 2 and will descend to ABC. The SPOT technology and the map produced by ESRI worked extremely well. There were only a few times when a signal was not plotted on the map – two periods of about 45 minutes, which was probably due to the line of site being blocked to the satellite. But the world watched as the flashing red dot moved in a steady pace. Yet with all this excitement, many other “mere mortals” also summited including elite Sherpa climber Ang Dorge Sherpa who made his 14th summit with Adventure Consultants. With the AC team was Mandy Ramsden, 1st South African woman to complete the 7 Summits. With the Eco Everest team were the youngest Indian climber ever Arjun Vajpai at age 16 and David Liano, who intended to climbed Everest from both sides but became ill and had to go back to Kathmandu during his north attempt, was cleared, and returned to the south to climb with Apa Sherpa! Also on that team were two members of the Finnish team: Timo Jaatien and Mika Pitkamaki plus 9 Sherpas. There were many more summits Saturday morning, including the large Himex team, and I will try to note as many as possible over the next few days. I have updated the location chart based on what I know from last night. In the next post I will begin today’s summit wave. My sincere congratulations to all. update: This from Himex guide Adrian Ballinger: All 12 members, 4 guides and 17 sherpa successfully climbed to the roof of the world, and back down to Camp 4 at the South Col. The weather was perfect, no wind, cold at the summit, but quite warm lower down. The summit was totally clear, with incredible views all around. There were very few other climbers summiting at that time, affording our climbers time to savour their triumph at the top, and meaning they did not face the traffic jams that occured last year at the Hillary Step. Half the team have opted to continue on down to Camp 2 before stopping for the night, the others will overnight where they are at Camp 4. Great job everyone! Climb On! Alan
Wave 1 Summit (update 4)
update #4: the next wave of summits are moving up in good weather. Best of luck to all these climbers. Saturday morning climbers are moving down the mountain on both sides. No problems reported as of now. The weather continues to be good. update #3: Multiple south summits from Adventure Consultants and Eco Everest team in excellent conditions. Special congratulations Ang Dorge Sherpa with his 14th summit and Apa Sherpa with his 20th. Mandy Ramsden, sick 1st SA for 7 Summits and Arjun Vajpayee, discount youngest Indian to summit. Jordan Romero bags his summits as well at age 13. His SPOT map showed him at the summit but I wanted to wait for verbal confirmation via his website’s home team. No word on the Himex team but we could have seen 100 summits from both sides tonight. Congratulations to all the climbers and climb safe back down. Hundreds more to make their own history tomorrow night as the rest of the teams are now moving to the high camps for their summit bids Saturday night, Nepal time. update #2: Dawn in breaking on Everest. Adventure Consultants is at the South Summit so should summit in 2-3 hours max between 7-8 local time. Jordan Romero has cleared the 2nd Step. Should summit about the same time. Weather still is good. No reports of crowds. update#1:Looks like a great night on Everest with teams on both sides moving steadily higher. Adventure Consultants is doing a great job of keeping everyone informed as is Apa Sherpa and the Eco Everest home team. Both are above the Balcony. All eyes are on Jordan Romero’s SPOT map which shows them between the 1st and 2nd step. This will be the crux of their ascent; of course they need to descend as well. A strange comment was posted on their site that ” Update from the team: Everything is going super well and they may attempt to summit today.” Not sure what that means. If you are to the 2nd Step and feeling well, most climbers will push on to the top. Eric Simonson, IMG, posted this overview as seen directly from his team on the mountain: Ang Jangbu reports that the winds started to die down this afternoon. AC, Himex and Asian Trek group continued and made it to the Col today, so they will be climbing for the summit tonight. Greg and Mike, with their respective IMG climbers up at Camp 3, decided it was better to wait and not get so trashed in the wind going to the Col, so they have spent the day hanging out and will aim for the South Col tomorrow morning. Justin and the IMG climbers at C2 will go to C3 in the morning. That means for tomorrow night (the 22nd in the US and the 23rd in Nepal) it will probably be our first team, along with Willie Benegas’ team, and possibly Mountain Trip attempting the summit with our second IMG team the following night (the 24th in Nepal) along with RMI, AAI, and some of Henry Todd’s group. We have the new weather forecast that shows the cyclone weakening and moving to the east over the next few days. We may still get hit by some of the moisture from this system, so we’ll keep our fingers crossed! Good luck to all! start of original post Looks like there is serious movement on both sides of Everest. With the good news of the winds calming a bit per the forecast and Adventure Consultants reports seeing stars at the South Col; always a good sign! Also it looks like the cyclone is sliding to the northeast and may not hit as hard as expected but some impact is still anticipated. Some who pushed hard to reach their Advanced Base Camps have decided to take an extra day to rest up and also to stretch out the crowds. The South side feels a little less frenzied but there are reports of 100 climbers at the North Col. Many teams are now at their high camps for the night looking at summit bids on Saturday night but a few have posted their current status of heading up tonight. As of Friday night, May 21st at 11:00 PM Nepal time, this is the activity, certainly not all by any stretch: Apa Sherpa and Eco Everest team: left camp 4 (South Col) David Liano: left Camp 4 (South Col) Elia Saikaly: left camp 4 (South Col) Adventure Consultants are well on their way with 6 climbers, 2 leaders and 9 Sherpas split into two groups Jordan Romero: North; approaching 27,000. Still below the ridge proper. They just posted this update on their site: The team just called from their iSatPhone. They wanted to say hello to everyone and to give everyone an update. Right now they have stopped for tea, but they said that everything is going well and that they are ahead of schedule. They also mentioned that the clouds were clearing and they could see the ridgeline all the way up to the summit and it looked absolutely amazing. The team is using oxygen for this part of the climb. Everyone is strong; especially Jordan. On a very sad note, a death has been reported on the north side by news agencies. This from ScandAsia.com: Tom Jørgensen Tom, a 56 year-old Danish mountaineer, died on the way back to Zham Port in Tibet on May 19, said Zhang Minxing, Secretary-General of the CTMA. After found to suffer from serious high altitude sickness, Jorgensen was sent back to Zham Port from Mt. Everest, but died despite rescue efforts. My sincere condolences to all his family, teammates and friends. More updates throughout the day. Climb On! Alan Personal Note: As regular followers on my site know, I do this for Alzheimer’s causes. Read my story here. I am excited to update everyone that am finalizing my 7 Summits quest to raise $1M for Alzheimer’s research, awareness and education and will start later this year. More details to follow. If you have
Positioned for the Summit Wave 1
After fighting fierce winds on Wednesday and Thursday, team after team made progress and climbed to the launching point on both sides of Everest Friday, ask May 21st and are ready to go for their summit bids starting Friday night, Nepal time (see sidebar for current time). The good news is the winds have calmed somewhat as reported by several teams at the South Col and Camp 2/3 on the north side. I know many people are following Jordan Romero, the 13 year-old on the north and from his SPOT tracking unit, they appear to have left camp 2 going higher. This would put them on the summit Saturday morning. You can follow them real time at this link. A caveat, I have rarely seen or experienced any of these satellite units function 100% perfectly throughout a climb. Batteries die, it is turned off accidentally, the signal bounces off rock walls or is completely lost; so if the track looks strange it is more than likely the technology, not the climbers. Some reports from teams over the past 24 hours: This in from 7 Summtis Club: Today, 21 May, as previously predicted, wind was decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to the camp at an altitude of 7700 meters (camp 2). The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpas continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May. Most of expeditions from the north and south moved to high-altitude camps. The summit wave on the south will be 22 May. On the north most of climbers are behind for about a day. Apa Sherpa’s BC updated us hours ago from the North Col: Everybody is at Camp 4. There was a possibility of some very high winds, maybe up to 60 mph, but the team reports that all is calm. They will be leaving for their summit attempt in about 4 and half hours. These next reports show that many teams hit the wall on Thursday, May 20th battling the weather and will be looking at an actual summit attempt on Saturday night with a Sunday morning summit. Alpine Ascents joined the teams that tried to move to C3 and reed as the winds hit harder: We were planning on going early this morning up to Camp 3. However, with the wind and the snow blasting away we decided that our option was to take another rest day. It certainly was agonizing, making that decision, but we think we made a good one. The wind has now been roaring all day long as well and we prefer for people to stay warm and keep all of their digits. We’ve had a restful day, although it’s been pretty emotionally taxing. A lot of people were having moments of doubt while trying to decide how committed they were to this mountain. It happens often on a days when it is this windy and nasty, people start thinking about back home and all their loved ones. But, with a lot of good open discussion, we’ve become a new stronger better team and we’re excited about getting up early tomorrow morning and moving on to Camp 3. Once again Gabriel Filippi gives us insight into the conditions on the north: I am still at camp 1: the weather winning over my efforts. I just saw something quite amazing: two flying tents! What is even more spectacular, is that the first one was still occupied by a climber. Fortunately, his flight was only a few centimeters long, and he is fine. The other tent literally disappeared with all its content: clothing, sleeping bag, food, oxygen. We still don’t know who owed it, but it is safe to say that his expedition is seriously compromised by the loss of his equipment. Lhakpa and I evaluated the winds at 140km/h. I will leave for camp 2 tomorrow… until then, I am streching the soup! As I have mentioned throughout this season, the First Ascent site has excellent video and outstanding writing from Leif Whittaker and now Melissa Arnot. I previously mentioned, via my Twitter feed, this video from Dave Hahn on the conditions. Dave has summited Everest 11 times and knows his stuff so when he says they will be “lucky” to summit, that says a lot. Take a look at the video for his full report. It is difficult to know who will go for the summit tonight, given the variable conditions so check your teams’s website for their latest and I will try to provide a summary as often as possible. Many who said they would go on the 21st are now delayed a day or may change their minds once at the Col or Camp 2/3 on the north if the conditions are not favorable. Bottom line however: there are climbers climbing towards the top of the world right now and will be throughout this weekend. I will create a new post for ongoing updates in a few hours or mid day Friday; US time. Climb On! Alan
Good Weather Reported for the Summit Push! (update 2)
update 2: 50+ climbers to South Col on Sat May 15, few, if any, went for summit as winds picked up. Look for big Sun night, Nepal time with summits Mon morning assuming weather holds. Next big window now May 24(?). update: as we approach midnight Saturday at the South Col, some teams are delaying summit push to start Sunday night Nepal time since winds have kicked up a tad. After a week of consternation about the weather, so far it looks like the forecasts of a lull are right on schedule. Multiple teams are in position for Sunday and Monday morning, Nepal time, summits from the south. From the north, I have received reports of several climbers looking at summits for May 17 including Julio Bird and David Liano. They are not counting on the ropes being fixed. I assume (my assumption) that the Tibetan Sherpas are pushing hard to get the lines fixed during this window. I also assume if there are some climbers going today, there are many more not reported yet. As I have been reporting all week, reading the weather on Everest is difficult as . Even seasoned climbers and meteorologists note it as a difficult task. Perhaps only K2 is more difficult to forecast amongst the big Himalayan Hills. I am told the issue is not the big picture but the details. Yes, there will be wind but how high and when is a challenge to accurately predict in minute detail. Almost every company noted this weekend’s window so that was unanimous, the difference was how long the window would last. For a large team that might incur delays at the notorious bottle necks (Hillary Step, Cornice traverse, etc.) they felt the window was too short. So some guide companies waited. Seasoned Everest veteran, Dave Hahn, posted this update for his RMI team: But of course, the weather isn’t quite stable enough yet for that last climb. Jet stream winds continue to scour the upper mountain. Basecamp has been uncharacteristically breezy and cool for the past few days, although not unpleasant. There is hope for a break in the winds in a week or so, which… as it turns out… coincides with the dates we’ve always assumed would work for our team anyway. A few teams are reportedly up at Camp III now and set on finding a lull in these next few days. We wish them luck and salute their boldness… but we don’t envy them. The mountain is tougher in tough conditions. As I have said before, reading weather data is both a science and an art form. Leaders must take into account not only the data, but also integrate that with their own observations and experience. Then they factor in the skills of their team and make a decision. The Malta Everest team reported in from Camp 3 noting acceptable winds on their trip up the Lhotse Face. Jamie Clark with Hanesbrands checked in with this Tweet: Team at Camp IV. Everybody’s feeling good. It’s very cold and windy, but we’re happy in our homes set up by the Sherpas. So we have multiple teams looking at a summit bid over the next 24 hours including Peak Freaks, Summit Climb, Hanesbrands, Dream Guides, Malta Everest and some independent climbers. An update from Team Jordan Romero on Everest North. They have left Chinese Base Camp and are at ABC. This from their Facebook page: Jordan leads the team the whole 25km straight to ABC. Feels like home again. Kid is on fire. Legs, Lungs and Heart are in PRIME condition. We could hardly stay with him. Confidence is right where it needs to be. Hang tight for our summit bid. Could be soon In a must read piece, 19 time Everest summiter, Apa Sherpa, has a nice Q&A with fans. He is going for number 20 and is at a high camp on the south today. I liked this particular interaction in this is the Blog of the Day. Which of the 19 times you’ve already summited has been the most meaningful and why? Apa: The most memorable was my first time summiting Mount Everest. The first time was better than any time since then. Safe climbing to everyone high on the mountain. Climb On! Alan
Climbing for a Cause
As we spend the last day of April monitoring the climbers on both sides of Everest, I thought it would be good to look at their motivations. Climbing historians know of the famous 1923 George Mallory quote, “Because it’s there” but others have more personal reasons. The primary action on both sides right now is working on their acclimatization through rotations to from low to high camps.
An Update from Ang Tshering Sherpa
Ang Tshering Sherpa is the Chairman and Founder of Asian Trekking, one of the oldest expedition companies in Nepal. He is the current President of the Nepal Mountaineering Association and perhaps the most influential Nepali in mountaineering. He sends a few letters out during the year with updates on the Himalayan climbing scene. His most recent letter has a few interesting tidbits. Everest 2010 Asian Trekking is supporting 9 expeditions, with 3 on Everest, this season including their own Eco Everest expedition. Dawa Steven Sherpa is co-leading the climb as usual. Last year they had an innovative “Cash for Trash” program that resulted in tons of garbage being removed from the south side of Everest. This year they want to clean up Everest above Camp 2. Apa Sherpa goes for #20 Apa Sherpa, the famed Nepalese Sherpa with the most summits of anyone, is back in 2010 going for his 20th summit! He is co-leading the Eco Everest expedition. Cho Oyu from Nepal? Ang Tshering suggests that climbers may have an alternative to climbing Cho Oyu from Nepal instead of the traditional Tibet route. The Nepal Government was asked to waive all permit fees for five years for Cho Oyu. However, the route from Nepal is quite difficult and would not replace the Tibet route that makes Cho Oyu an “easy” 8000m mountain. Last fall, Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko climbed the south-east face in alpine style. This competed Urubko’s 14 8000m quest climbing all the peaks without supplemental oxygen. But Cho Oyu from Nepal it could an attractive alternative for qualified climbers if the Chinese continue to make it difficult to obtain permits as they are this season on Everest. Recently, climbers have been told not to enter Tibet until April 10, a slight delay that will cause more aggravation than problems. But it was announced late and some teams had to abandon previously planned acclimatization climbs in Tibet. Here is Ang Tshering’s letter in full: Namaste and warm greetings from Nepal. I am delighted to inform you that finally the spring Expedition Season starting soon and I am pleased to share with you many interesting and positive news from Nepal. Apa Sherpa,World Record Holder for 19 ascents of Mt.Everest and Climbing Leader of Eco Everest Expedition is heading for 20th Summit on Mt.Everest this spring and Asian Trekking family extends their all support and wishes for the success. Eco Everest Expedition: Once again this year Asian Trekking is organising the Eco Everest Expedition (2010). Under the leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa, Apa Sherpa (19 times Everest Summiteer: world record holder) as the Climbing Leader and Nanga Dorje Sherpa as Sirdar. The focus will be on climbing in an eco-sensitive manner, bringing old garbage, and all human waste produced on the mountain down to base camp for proper disposal. The expedition will once again be using the highly successful alternative energy solutions like the parabolic solar cookers and the SteriPENs for water purification. This year Dawa Steven and his Eco Everest Expedition team has planned to focus to collect and bring down previous expedition garbage between the altitudes of 6500 m and above. A team of 10 high altitude Sherpas will be hired to clean up garbage and debris from such high altitudes. Eco Everest Expedition 2009 team had brought down nearly 6000 kilos of previous expedition garbage from Mt. Everest under the Cash for Trash program. This year’s Eco Everest Expedition targets to bring down 1000 kgs of debris from high altitude above Camp 2 (6500m) and 6000 kgs of debris from Camp 2 and below. Since the spring Season is approaching very closed, The following are the expedition Teams Confirmed up to today through Asian Trekking: 1. Eco Everest Expedition 2. Kazakh Lhotse Expedition 3. International Everest Expedition 1 4. International Everest Expedition 2 5. International Cho-oyu Expedition 6. International Shishapangma Expedition 7. Chilean Amadablam Expedition 8. Korean Himlung Expedition 9. German Cho-oyu Expedition Please visit: www.asian-trekking.com for details. Beat the GLOF Event and Save the Himalaya Khumbu Festival will be held at Khumjung village on 4 June 2010 instead of 10 – 11 June. The date for this event has been postponed for the convenience of the guests of 3rd International Sagarmatha (Mt.Everest) Day Celebration, which will be held on 29 May 2010, to participate in Beat the GLOF Event and Save the Himalaya Khumbu Festival. The event will be celebrated with various programs which focus on the mountain communities, the mountain environment and the impacts of climate change on them. The event will be supported by Idea,Nepal Tourism Board, Sagarmatha National Park, and many non government organizations. 2nd New International Airport in Nepal: Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation held a ceremony on March 7, 2010 where an agreement was signed between The Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation, and Land Mark Worldwide Co. Ltd., Korea. The agreement was on the detailed feasibility study of the second international airport at Dhumberwana, Nijgadh; a town situated in Bara District, 84 kilometers south-east from Kathmandu. The feasibility study will have to be completed within 10 months from the date of agreement signed. Nepal Tourism Year 2011 was officially launched on February 26, 2010 and preparations have already begun which is sure to make way for improvements in Nepal’s Tourism. All the political parties of Nepal including the Unified Maoist Communist Party of Nepal (Maoist) have signed an agreement committing not to call any bandhs or any such strikes that affect the tourists during the period of Nepal Tourism Year. Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA),TAAN and EOAN have appealed and suggested to The Government of Nepal to help solve many problems prevailing in the Nepalese mountain tourism. Among the many requests made following are the main ones. A) Since 16 July 2008, the Government of Nepal waived off royalty of the opened peaks in the Midwestern and Farwestern Nepal for five years (till 16 June 2013) which shows good sign of positive developments in these region. Similarly