2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs Update 3: About Over

Three of the four 8000ers—Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna—are over, showing the difficulty of climbing these high peaks in winter. Only one met its goal. Two climbers on Makalu remain, but winds are stalling their progress.
2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs Update 2: Jost Successful

The winter season is underway for four of the 8000ers: Everest, Makalu, Manaslu and Annapurna. High winds are stalling two, and two are effectively over. One has met their their goal.
2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs Update 1
The winter season has begun for three of the 8000ers: Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna. Each is unique in style, and professional climbers are at the helm.
2024/25 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Everest, Manalsu, Annapurna
The winter season has begun for three of the 8000ers: Everest, Manaslu and Annapurna. Each is unique in style, and professional climbers are at the helm.
K2 Winter on the Abruzzi

With the ropes on K2 at Camp 2, it’s easy to get excited about early progress, but this is normal for past winter expeditions. The real challenges start above Camp 2 and when wind and snow lockdown teams for days, if not weeks, on ends. Let’s take a step back to review the Abruzzi Spur route, plus the history of winter attempts and what lesson can be gleaned from their experiences.
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Final Winter Summit Pushes, Surprise New Team

The two expeditions left on the 8000ers this winter, both on Everest, are starting their final pushes. One is already in the midst. The wildcard, as always, will be the weather and this week’s forecast has a few short windows, but nothing ideal, especially in winter. Wind chills are consistently forecasted around -50F/C, the limit […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Only Two Left

Only two teams are left on the 8000ers this winter, both on Everest and both are struggling. Both suggest one more attempt to get as high as possible before ending their efforts. While the temps have been cold and the winds high, there is running water at Everest Base Camp, a warning sign for the […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Ends Broad Peak Summit Push

Denis Urbuko ended his winter Broad Peak effort after reaching 7000m, getting hit by an avalanche. Spaniard Oscar Cardo on Alex Txikon’s team evacuated from Everest C2 with some form of AMS. Controversy over the early termination of the K2 expedition. Broad Peak – Over – Hit by Avalanche Denis Urubko ended his summit bid […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs: Urubko Launch Broad Peak Summit Push tomorrow

Broad Peak weather forecast changed so Urbuko will leave for the summit Sunday, February 16 aiming to top out on the 17th. He’s alone with no comms so we won’t have any updates until mid-week. Txikon moved to C2 on Everest while Jost seems to be exploring options for the West Ridge. Broad Peak – […]
2019/20 Winter Himalaya Climbs:What Went Wrong on K2?

I was quite surprised when I read the news from John Snorri that their winter K2 attempt had come to a sudden halt and all members had flown back to Askole. I’ve known the expedition leader, Mingma Gyalje Sherpa‘s and his Imagine Nepal guide company for years and highly respect his skills and leadership ability. The […]