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May 242013
 
Everest 2013: More Summits, It is Not Over!

Climbing Everest is all about timing. And a few climbers are proving that they can sneak in a few summits after the masses have left. On the North, the second team from SummitClimb summited 19 in what was termed ‘high winds’. Part of their team was Leifur Orn Svavarsson, reported to be the first Icelander to summit from the North. On the South, Manish kumar Deka of Assam, India summited with his Sherpas. They were climbing with Arun. Senior Battle In the ongoing battle for records, 81 year-old Nepali, Min Bahadur Sherchan, is reported at Base Camp. I have from continue reading


May 142013
 
Everest 2013: Moving Up

This season is turning out to be somewhat normal, well at least with respect to weather. April was bit windier and snowy than usual but now as we approach mid May, the jet stream is cooperating by moving away from the summit and teasing climbers with forecasts of calm winds perfect for a climb to the top of the world. The only rub seems to be the temperatures are a bit cold, but it is the top of the world! The teams who summited yesterday are all back down at Camp 2 after threading the needle. Again, congratulations. As for continue reading


May 092013
 
Everest 2013: Summits Tonight and Moments of Reflection

The Sherpas are reported to be fixing the line between the South Col and the Balcony today, Thursday May 9 Nepal time. Apparently David Tait, with Himex, is going with the Sherpas and made this cryptic Tweet: Im at c4 – going summit tonight. Hopstile as everg This was his plan all along but had backed off due to an injury, weather and politics. He would summit early Friday, May 10. David Lianno is also on his summit push currently at C2 looking to summit on May 11, Nepal time. Eric Simonson, IMG, provided this detailed update with: IMG leaders continue reading


May 042013
 
Everest 2013: Race to Camp 3

It seems like the teams are only talking about the weather this weekend on Everest. There is movement on Saturday as the forecast calls for very high winds soon. Most of the teams moving up now are trying to spend the night or tag Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. Once they have completed this task and returned to Base Camp, their acclimatization program is complete and they will wait for a five day window of good weather to go for the summit. There is talk of the first summit window around May 18th. This is along time for the continue reading


Apr 232013
 
Everest 2013: Teams Climbing Again

After yesterday’s huge dump of snow near Camp 1, the trail has been broken by the Sherpas and climbers allowing movement between camps. Avalanches are being reported as the snow settles but nothing out of the ordinary For most Everest climbers, this is the time when they internalize the work, and fun, of climbing. Each morning, they awake not fully knowing what lies ahead that day. And when they are in the middle of the day, they are unsure of tomorrow. This uncertainty brings exhilaration and anxiety.   Climbers Moving Alpine Ascents reports they moved from C1 to C2 and continue reading


Apr 142013
 
Everest 2013: Weekend Update April 14

Right on schedule, Everest Base Camp (EBC) in Nepal filled up this week as climbers finished their trek from Lukla. On the other side, a few have arrived but most teams are half way through their drive to the Chinese Base Camp (CBC) after crossing the border mid week. The north bound teams take day hikes during the travel to further their acclimatization. Sunday is a bit of a celebration at EBC as it is New Year’s Day for the Nepali. The Big Picture Pausing for an overview of the task ahead, mid April is when the serious climbing begins continue reading


Apr 112013
 
Everest 2013: Tributes to the Sherpas

The death of Icefall Doctor, Mingma Sherpa, is still echoing throughout the climbing community. Anytime there is a death, it shakes the Sherpas and climbers to their core. It causes everyone to consider their goals, to think deeply about why they are there. For some it is a job, for others it is a dream; but for all it is a risk. Everest is often dismissed as an “easy walk-up” but the sad reality is that every year people die. It is part of high altitude mountaineering. When a Sherpa dies, the implications are wide. The novice climbers reconsiders their continue reading


Apr 102013
 
Everest 2013: First Steps into the Icefall

There is progress to report all around today. Teams are in Base Camp making their first trips into the Icefall. Others are finishing up their trek in the Khumbu and the North side teams have crossed the Chinese border and are starting the first of four nights en-route to the Chinese Base Camp. Several teams including Adventure Consultants are getting close to South Base Camp and only have a couple more nights on the trek. Ang Dorge reports on the weather today: The weather has changed, turning windy, cloudy and colder than before. Flurries of snow flakes have come down this continue reading


Apr 042013
 
Everest 2013: The Trek Goes On

Just a quick update today as teams are still on the trek to Everest Base Camp. Many of the updates are about what they are seeing, and feeling along the way. However, this may be the strangest collection of updates I have ever posted! I’m seeing several reports of stomach issues the past few days. This is fairly common as Westerners adjust their systems to the local food. Most climbers will get things sorted by the time they arrive at Base Camp. Steve Whittington gave us this insight: I was suffering from a G.I. bacteria that has worked it’s way continue reading


May 212012
 
Everest 2012: Positioning for the Last Wave

The last wave of climbers are positioned at Camp 2 on the South and ABC on the North. The last weather window of the 2012 Spring season is taking shape with May 25/26th being the sweet spot.  Weather I spoke with Everest weather expert, Michael Fagin who said the monsoons were forming off India: Numerical forecast models are now starting to indicate an increase in upper level moisture in Southern India by May 25 and beyond. Models are also starting to show a shift in the upper winds by May 25 in Southern India and beyond to a more easterly continue reading