First, the UK climbing legend Doug Scott died in his sleep today at age 79. Amongst his many accomplishments, he was the first Briton to summit Everest along with Dougal Haston.This on his Facebook page:
It is with great sadness that I have to inform you that Doug passed away in the early hours of this morning (Monday, December 7) peacefully in his sleep. He was diagnosed with brain cancer at the start of the first lockdown and was able to spend the summer with family at his home in the Lake District.
He will be remembered as the first British man to climb Mt Everest, as a pioneer of alpine-style climbing in the high mountains and for creating the charity, Community Action Nepal, which created shelters for porters, schools, and health posts in remote mountain communities in Nepal.
He loved visiting the area to give talks in support of the charity. Our thoughts should now be with his family and friends.
This excellent interview with Doug from 2013:
At Base Camp
The weather was crazy last night and some of our tents and kitchen tent exploded. Today we worked all day to build up our camps, we moved our camps a bit and fixed all the tents. So now we should be ready for the next crazy weather.
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa: no foreigners, 3 Sherpas have their climbing permit from Pakistan and are on their way to Islamabad, Skardu and the trek to base camp. Mingma told me he expected to be at K2BC by December 19, 2020.
Mingma summited K2 in 2014 and 2017 plus made an ill-fated winter attempt last year. He will not be using supplemental oxygen. The rest of the team includes Dawa Tenzing Sherpa and Kili Pemba Sherpa. Their Pakistan logistic is being managed by Lela Peak Expedition.
And the K2 Rest
There are at least two other teams (at least more may show up!):
Seven Summits Treks: 24 clients supported by 21 Sherpas. With so many clients, this effort seems to be well funded and the leaders of SST have all summited K2, but not in winter thus they seem to have the best chance.
Nirmal Purja Purja Purja Purja: has confirmed he is going but still no details.
Overall it looks like there will be close to 60 climbers this winter, similar to a normal summer season.
There are also plans on nearby Broad Peak. Russian-American Alex Goldfarb and Hungarian Zoltan Szlanko are planning a climb, hoping to ski from the summit. Over on Manaslu, long-time climbers, Simone Moro and Alex Txikon will go for a winter summit.
Memories are Everything