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May 072021

We have the first summits of Everest 2021 spring season. The rope fixing team from Seven Summits Treks bought the rights to fix the ropes, led by record summit holder Kami Rita Sherpa. He got his 25th summit and most likely will return for a 26th.

Look for a slew of summits over the next few days including the Bahrain Royal guard, also with Seven Summits treks. They are leveraging their massive presence of over 130 clients, to dominate the mountain again this year. Other teams are laying back to let them make their push and clear out the route. Wise move. Winds are expected to pick back up around May 13/14, so teams will push hard to get this window, as it may be the last this season.

Chhang Dawa Sherpa of SST posted this update:

The first team of climbers reached the summit of Sagarmatha (Everest 8848.86)at 18:00 (Nepal Time), 12 climbing Sherpas from Seven Summit Treks under the management of Expedition Operators of Nepal (EOA) have reached the top of Mount Everest, becoming the first climbers of the season to conquer the new altitude of the world’s highest mountain from the Nepali side.
1) Kami Rita Sherpa – Solukhumbu (25th Ascent of Everest)
2) Phurtenzi Sherpa – Sankhuwasabha
3) Lakpa Nurbu Sherpa – Sankhuwasabha
4) Ngima Tashi Sherpa- Solukhumbu
5) Mingma Tenji Sherpa – Sankhuwasabha
6) Fura Tshering Sherpa – Solukhumbu
7) Tenjing Sherpa – Sankhuwasabha
8 ) Chheten Dorjee Sherpa – Solukhumbu
9) Tenjing Gyaljen Sherpa – Solukhumbu
10) Phurba Chhotar Sherpa – Solukhumbu
11) Mingma Dorchi Sherpa – Sankhuwasabha
12) Furba Kusang Sherpa – Sankhuwasabha


Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions tells me:

WInds come back weak on 8th and 9th then drops away for a few days. Comes back much stronger around 13th-14th. Teams who don’t hit the window early next week will then have to wait until potentially the 20th or later.


The Nepal COVID situation continues to degrade:

KATHMANDU, May 7: The government hospitals have run out of space to treat COVID-19 patients. They are now forced to treat COVID-19 patients by placing them in corridors and chairs in the hospitals.

Shukraraj Tropical and Infectious Diseases Hospital has a capacity to treat 60 people, including 22 Intensive Call Units (ICUs). But this hospital treats 20 to 25 patients daily in the emergency room. As its emergency room is fully occupied, patients are being put in chairs for treatment.

The Barian team is on the move apparently following the rope fixing team to the summit. this is an Insider deal thoi Kami Rita of Seven Summits trek leading the team and also their lead guide;

In more silly news from Nepal’s Ministry of Tourism, this from the Kathmandu Post:

On Friday, the Tourism Ministry issued a statement saying its attention has been drawn to various media reports claiming there is a virus outbreak on Everest. The ministry urged not to publish stories without verification as it could terrorise the mountaineers as well as their family members.


Gotta love this post from Cokie Berenyi

One more photo from our quick touch at Everest Camp 3. The photo here is actually from Madison Mountaineering. Today was a Perfect Day. The weather was nice but cold. Lots of fresh snow on the Lhotse Face, which gave us a really good climbing experience. We are at Camp 2 tonight and will head back to Base Camp tomorrow.

I have to admit that while I know this is a life goal for me, I’m already thinking about Mother’s Day this coming weekend. I’ll write a blog—just know that it will be full of love and care for my girls and my Mom (#1 Prayer Supporter). But first: back to Base Camp and WiFi and a hot shower! Thanks for your support and prayers and comments.

Climb On!
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Comments on/from Facebook

  6 Responses to “Everest 2021: First Summits!”


    Hi Alan,
    thanks for the daily Updates. I got a question. For normal mountaineers, the summit at 6 pm would be much too late, wouldn’t it? is the fixing team really that much faster or do they descend voluntarily and consciously during the evening hours and night?


      The thinking on this has changed for some. The argument goes that you climb up in the dark so why not down? Still 99.999% of climbers follow the tradition of trying to summit around dawn. For these guys down climbing in the dark wouldn’t have presented a problem. They are extremely fast.


    Kami Rita Sherpa and his team are the true heroes there. They are certainly paid for being there, but they are the people who are making real history opening the route for the rich foreigners who are gonna write their own name in the history of the summit.


    Thank you so much Alan, this is such a great Blog! I wish each and everyone safe passage and health!


    Hi Alan
    I believe that Pasang Dawa from Pangboche has already completed 25 summits of Everest [it may even be 26 by now]. This achievement has never been recognised as the Ministry of Tourism never used to give out certificates for Sherpas on the rope fixing team. Tim Mosedale and Rob Casserley can help to verify many of these summits and if you ask villagers up in the Khumbu they will also verify the fact. Given that the Khumbu is not really the sort of place you can claim false ascents it gives his achievement a lot of credence even though it may not be recognised by western sources.


    I hear that Covid has arrived at base camp. Another worry to contend with. Be safe everybody.