Several strong Sherpas from various Nepali operators fixed the ropes on Nanga Parbat over the past few days thus facilitating a handful of clients to reach the summit. In total, there were 18 summits consisting of six members supported by 12 Sherpas, a 1:2 ratio of support. Pakistan issued 100 (member with support) permits this season; thus, look for more activity on Nanga.
The 2022 summer season is moving along with few, if any, issues reported by the teams. Most are talking about getting the fixed ropes put in by their super-strong Sherpas to the low-medium altitude camps while on Nanga, we are using a few summits. A shortage of porters and general support due to the record number of permits issued have delayed some teams from reaching their base camps.
As usual in Pakistan, the weather is variable with great, then tough days. Nothing out of the ordinary. Most of the commercial teams are taking the usual trade routes. A few independent climbers are taking less-traveled routes, but overall, this summer, climbing in Pakistan looks a lot like climbing in Nepal. Not a huge surprise since most of the teams are led by large Nepali operators using their proven formula of high oxygen rates with strong Sherpa support.
As for summits on the most-watched K2, don’t expect them for another couple of weeks at the earliest. Most K2 summits occur between July 25 and August 1.
As I reported when it happened, Pemba Sherpa, with 8K Expeditions, noted his team summited NP. Norwegian Kristin Harila, supported by Sherpas Dawa Ongju Sherpa, Pasadawa Sherpa, and Chhiring Namgel Sherpa, topped out for a continuation of their project. Harila, Dawa, and Pasadawa are aiming to summit all of the 8000ers in record time. Next are K2 and Broad Peak, then the Gasherbrum before solving the Cho Oyu and Shishapangma Chinese political challenge. They will most likely try Cho from the perilous Nepal side. They now have seven of the 14.
Also summiting was Taiwanese Grace Tseng, supported by Nima Gyalzen Sherpa and Ningma Dorje Tamang of Dolma Outdoor Expedition. They hope to get the other four 8000ers in Pakistan this season. Not to be left out, Japanese Naoko Watanabe climbing with Sanu Sherpa got her ninth 8000ers at 5:14 am on Nanga.
Seven Summit Treks said Geljie Sherpa and British climber Adriana Brownlee, targeting to set an age record for 14 summited NP. She has eight. They also took credit for fixing the summit ropes with these climbers: Pechhumbe Sherpa, Tenjen Sherpa, Adrian Laza (Romanian), Tenjing Sherpa, Chhangba Sherpa, Dorota Lidia Samocko (Polish), and Dawa Nurbu Sherpa.
Some old-school climbing on NP outshined the commercial teams’ accomplishments. Italians François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco did what is considered a new variation on NP’s Diamir Face to 6,000-meters (C2) on the Kinshofer route. They called it Valle d’Aosta Express and posted this on IG:
Here we are! We didn’t disappear! As promised we were out of the box and here is *Aosta Valley Express* 1400 m. – AI 90* – M6 – 85* yesterday @piccopietro and I threw ourselves into the heart of the Diamir wall on Nanga Parbat opening this new route that rejoins the Kinshofer at camp 2 at 6,000 m. arrived on the Kinshofer we Before this climb we acclimatized to the little-known and unequipped Genalo Peack 6,606 m. reaching 6,100 m. This small but important result for us would not have been possible without the help and support of our expedition companions with whom we form an extraordinary team. Now we will rest a few days and then resume work from where we left off! Stay tuned!
We can expect more summits including Pakistani Shehroze Kashif, Nepalis Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita, and Dawa Yangzum Sherpa. Other climbers using the ‘old-school’ style of limited support with no supplemental O’s include my friend Tunc Findic, and Argentinian climber Juan Pablo Toro.
With a reported 375-400 permits issued for K2 which is the total for members with their support, thus far teams are staying quiet as to crowds or issues with space for tents at the tiny C1 and C2 spots on the Abruzzi. No word if any team is taking the Cesen, but Mingma G has hinted he might. I find it interesting that almost every team is claiming credit for fixing the ropes on K2. The truth is in the middle.
Over on K2, Garrett Maddison is on their one and only acclimatization rotation, last reported at C1 (6065m/19,900ft) before moving up to C2 (6700m/21,980ft). Looks like the winds may pick up towards the end of this next week, so it is good that members are acclimatizing now. Apparently, Pioneer Adventures is also at C2. 8K Expeditions have now arrived and, “Tomorrow our members will be heading Camp I & our climbing sherpa will be heading till Camp II for acclimatization.”
Mingma G’s Imagine Nepal noted the current challenges:
We have our first team arrived in Base Camp already and they are there with limited services at the moment. Because of a shortage of porters to go to base camp, our team hasn’t received all their baggage yet. We have now enough porters and our team will enjoy a well facilitated base camp from this week onwards. We will be climbing K2 and Broad Peak this time with my bhai Sirbaz Khan and then we will be joining Anwar Syed team on Nanga Parbat in August 2022.
And Karakorum Expeditions is on K2 also claiming that the “team successfully fixed rope to camp2 on K2 !”
Climbers on Furtenbach’s last reported in at C1 and planned to summit on July 5 before the weather turns poor. They had the ropes to C3. And Karakorum Expeditions is on BP claiming that, “Our team Broad Peak established camp 2.” There are four camps at roughly 19,000′, 21,000′, 22,000′ and 24,200′. The summit is 26,401′.
Only two teams are currently attempting GI & G II. In addition to Jagged Globe, a joint effort by Kari Kobler and 360 Expeditions has around 12 members, 6 Sherpas, 5 High Altitude Porters, and 120 cylinders of oxygen, per JG. Jagged Globe is doing a nice job of keeping us updated:
The Jagged Globe GII team are all back in BC after spending one night at Camp 1 (5900m). The route through the icefall was more difficult than expected. We are working with the only other major team on the mountain to identify and maintain the best route through the icefall. Soon work will begin to fix the route to Camp 2. Sadly one of the local climbers assisting our expedition fell while descending the icefall yesterday and damaged his shoulder. We are working to arrange a helicopter evacuation to hospital in Skardu. The team will now have a few days rest in BC before returning to the mountain on 3 July.
|TODAY’S STATS – 7/1/22|
Climbers Currently On Mountain
Number of Summits
Tragedy in the Dolomites
Due to extreme heat – temperature higher 10° than “normal”, but normal isn’t a word we can’t use anymore – about 1 hour ago an enormous serac broke and hit about 15 people on Marmolada glacier (Dolomites) , 6 killed and 10 wounded,still counting. Alpine Rescue, volunteers are still working on the spot
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Why this coverage?
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