K2 2024 Coverage: Summits and Deaths

K2 Traverse

Several teams banded together to summit K2 on the morning of July 28, 2024, while on the other side of the mountain, two Japanese climbers apparently died in a fall. There were also many summits on nearby Broad Peak. Of note this season was the large number of Pakistanis who summited or served as High-Altitude Workers (HAW) for the commercial teams.

Most teams noted the number of clients with support who summited while others did not. I’ll try to update this post when we get more information. #k2024

This summer has been Karakorum’s most variable weather season, with mostly high winds delaying or stopping many summit efforts and, in some cases, even acclimatization rotations. However, as become the custom these days, teams will band together at the last possible moment to follow the rope team, hoping to summit and descend before the winds return. It’s always a gamble.  #k2024

K2 2024 Coverage: Summit Pushes Underway

Approaching K2 Summit 2014 © www.alanarnette.com

Summit pushes are underway for K2 based on hope than science. The weather has been fairly unstable this season. Meanwhile, the nearby 8000ers have already seen a few summits.

This summer has been Karakorum’s most variable weather season, with mostly high winds delaying or stopping many summit efforts and, in some cases, even acclimatization rotations. However, as become the custom these days, teams will band together at the last possible moment to follow the rope team, hoping to summit and descend before the winds return. It’s always a gamble.  #k2024

K2 2024 Coverage: Climbing Begins

K2 from Broad Peak

Climbing across the Karakorum is underway with the first summits of this 2024 summer season on Nanga Parbat. Ropes are nearing the high camps on K2.

The Pakistani Newspaper Dawn reports that the Gilgit-Baltistan Tourism Department has issued over 1,700 permits to foreign climbers, of which 175 permits have been issued to scale K2.

A notable person in the Karakorum this season is Sajid Ali Sadpara, the son of Mohammad Ali Sadpara, who perished on K2 a few years ago and will attempt a no Os climb of K2 in addition to Broad Peak. #k2024

Everest 2024 Podcast: Ryan Mitchell on his Everest Summit–”Life Changing”

Ryan Mitchel Everest Summit

Massachusetts native 19-year-old Ryan Mitchell summited Mt. Everest on May 23, 2024! This extensive podcast discusses his experience from training to the summit and back home.

Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while I told him many companies would take his money and have him on Everest, the best approach would be to wait at least a year and gain the skills and experience it would take to make a safe attempt on the world’s highest peak. He agreed, and we’ve worked together for the past year.

In this podcast, Ryan explains how he funds his climbs, training approach, and “why.” We cover a lot of topics, including:

    1:22 – Was it hard? Was it fun?
    2:50 – How did you train to get the required experience?
    8:33 – What part of your training meant the most once on Everest?
   11:35 – You created a YouTube series documenting each day of the expedition.
   12:13 – What cameras did you use, and how did you keep the batteries warm?  
   18:50 – What other gear did well for you, like the down suit from Himali and your La Sportiva 8000-meter boots?
   20:11 – Discuss the trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp
   21:32 – Did video logging distract you from the overall experience?
   23:12 –  Describe arriving at EBC and meeting the Sherpas for the first time.
   26:10 – How was climbing through the Icefall? 
   31:41 – How hot was the Western Cwm?
   33:00 – Did you ever get sick?
   34:45 – What were the climbing conditions on the Lhotse Face?
   40:10 – Did you experience severe crowding on Everest?
   41:42 – Describe the good and bad at the South Col.
   48:50 – Walk us through the Summit push.
   53:46 – Sunrise from Everest
   56:07 – How was the Hillary Step?
   59:10 – Seeing dead bodies
1:01:25 – What emotions did you feel on the summit?
1:06:36 – You had a fast climb back to C2. Why so fast?
1:09:30 – Were you happy when you finished your last trip through the icefall?
1:13:03 – How did it feel to arrive back home?
1:15:55 – What are one or two words or phrases describing your Everest journey?
1:17:30  – What’s next?
I know you will enjoy this.

#everest2024

#everest2024

Everest 2024: Season Summary – Everest at a Rubicon

Everest Alpineglow

Everest 2024 might be remembered for summits, politics, deaths, ignored rules, near misses and disturbing allegations of sexual misconduct. It’s difficult to put all this in a headline, but I believe the Everest guiding industry is at a Rubicon – a point of no return.

Not to be lost in this mix is the joy and satisfaction felt by hundreds of summiteers. They worked and trained diligently to celebrate standing on the top of the world for only a few minutes. It’s funny how you can work so long for a goal, and the moment is over in a blink, but the memory lasts a lifetime—well done to all who summited, to those who showed up.

Once again, the Sherpas proved they dominated the mountain with impressive altitude performance. The Himalayan Database shows that between 1950 and 2023, 6,097 Sherpas have summited Everest compared to 5,899 members, and that gap is growing each year. However, more foreigners have died than Sherpas, 197 compared to 118. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Last Summits of the Season and Another Death

The 2024 Everest season ended well for the Alpenglow group, but sadly, there was another death on the Nepal side. 2024 was a challenging year that may change the trajectory of climbing Everest, especially on the Nepal side. The Icefall Doctors are removing all the ladders in the Western Cwm and Khumbu Icefall, thus officially closing the season on that side. I’ll do my annual season summary in a few days. #everest2024