Year: 2026

With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their summit. While the major impact of the jet stream has passed, fragments could still create bitter windchill and frostbite, so climbers will need to be prepared to bail if the jet stream suddenly returns.

The Everest summits for the season total is around 86, with 54 Sherpas and 32 clients.  The ratio is skewed by the large rope team, entirely comprised of Sherpas. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026

After weeks of delays, the rope fixers finally reached the summit of Everest with the fixed line. However, the jet stream is about to sit over the summit for the next few days, making any attempts dangerous, if not deadly. It turned out that there were members stationed at the South Col, hoping to draft off the fixers and reach the summit—6 members did just that.  #everest2026

The Himalayan death toll is now at five, with two Everest climbers and one trekker on his way to climb Everest. An impromptu rope-fixing team has reached the Balcony around 8400 meters and expects to hand off to the regular rope fixers to continue to the summit by the 13th. Multiple reports say the route from base camp to Camp 2 is one of the best in years. #everest2026

The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the summit as the lines get there. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. A Sherpa died in the Icefall. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest. #everest2026

The weather is bad on Everest. Heavy snow at EBC with high winds at Cmap 2. The rope fixing team is hunkering down until it passes. The good news is that this appears to be a short-term event. Now for the bad news. Meteorologists, Chris Tomer of Tomer Weather Solutions told me today, Thursday, May 7, 2026, in Nepal:
#everest2026

A small avalanche off Everest’s West Shoulder fell onto the Khumbu Icefall, injuring two. It’s a gift that there weren’t more. The ropes reached Camp 3 today, keeping them on schedule to reach Everest’s summit around May 14, and also Lhotse’s summit. Multiple teams are now at Camp 2 for acclimatization, and Camp 3 has been established–particularly good for the no O’s climbers. #everest2026

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. Sherpas have established Camp 2, also known as Advanced Base Camp, with tents and other supplies. They will begin stocking it with an oxygen bottle soon. Teams have started their acclimatization rotations to Camps 1 and 2. The ropes are expected to reach the summit around May 14th. Everest permits are nearing 2024’s record of 479, generating nearly $7 million in permit revenue alone. #everest2026

The route is in to Camp 2, thus allowing Sherpa rope fixers to begin fixing it to the summit, starting with Camp 3. The serac has not completely fallen, so it brings the question of how much risk each individual – client and Sherpa is willing to take? While the route to Camp 1 is about two weeks late, there is still plenty of time this season, so, regardless of what you may read, the Everest 2026 season is not at risk—anymore. #everest2026