Category: Climbing News

The Pakistani government has issued an exhaustive report on the July 27, 2023, death of Pakistani High Altitude Porter, Mr. Muhammad Hassan. While no one team or individual was found culpable, it exposed deep issues across the mountaineering industry that must be fixed.

It is sad and interesting reading that didn’t find any one person or team solely responsible for his death but haphazard coordination among the operators, ignoring long-established Pakistani climbing rules, and a lack of training and resources. All complicated by a sudden storm at the steepest and most dangerous terrain of the mountain. #k2023

The K2 season appears to be over, with an estimated 112+ summits by at least six teams. Multiple teams turned back on their summit push due to unstable conditions. Each of Pakistan’s five 8000ers saw summits this summer in what could be called a “difficult weather” season. On K2, it felt like there was only one suitable weather window, July 27, and it was mixed. All of the K2 summits used the Abruzzi (SE Ridge) route. At least one team is still planning on a Broad Peak attempt.. #k2023

It was a difficult night and day on July 27, 2023, on K2. There is at least one reported death. Several teams pushed through, while others felt it was a death trap to summit, and some turned back. A few will try again as the inventory of aspirants clears out. K2 lived up to her reputation. Around seventy people summited. #k2023

We have K2 2023 summits by the rope team and Kristin Harila with Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa for their last 8000er in 3 months, 13 hours. A massive number of climbers are still to go as long as the weather holds. #k2023

Garrett Madison of Madison Mountaineering reported his team is on their summit push, hoping to top out on July 27. They will be following the rope team to the summit since they have been delayed by heavy snow the past couple of days. Look for over 150 people to summit if the weather holds, with perhaps another 150 stationed lower on the mountian. #k2023

Not surprisingly, the weather has moved in, bringing white-out conditions to K2. The rope fixing team was supposed to summit today, Monday, July 24, but we haven’t received any updates. Look for a few days’ delay at this point beyond July 25-27, when most teams were targeting their summits. #k2023