Everest 2024 Coverage: Are Luxury Operators Being Targeted by Nepal?

Seven Summits Treks Manaslu 2022 Base Camp. Courtsey of Pasang Rinzee Sherpa

Out of the blue, Nepal announced new policies limiting “luxuries” offered by operators at Everest Base Camp. The authorities cited environmental impact but still allowed an unlimited number of people on the mountain each season. Luxuries on Everest are nothing new and offered by most operators, but some more than others. The limits on luxuries apply to Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam and are effective for the spring 2024 season.. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Interview with Garrett Madison on his “Aconcagua Ambush” and the Upcoming Everest Season

We are getting closer to #Everest2024, and there are some new rules Nepal is proposing. In this with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, we discuss his recent “Aconcagua Ambush,” where he and his client summited the highest peak in South America, spending only one night on the mountain and used an experimental oxygen system that has promise other high peaks. Also, his thoughts on Nepal’s plan to require all climbers to use WAG bags to remove solid human waste from Everest high camps, the use of helicopters on Everest, and a limit on luxuries at base camp. #everest2024

Everest 2024 Coverage: WAG bags Finally Required on Everest

toilet drum from Base Camp

As we ease closer to Everest 2024, the Nepal government is taking some last-minute actions. As usual, we’ll see if the authorities enforce these rules, as most operators (and clients) ignore them without consequences. There are at least two “new rules” with more forthcoming. I fully applaud Nepal for taking any action to clean any mountain, but I will hold my applause until after I get the first-hand reports, not from the MoT, if this new policy of removing waste is successful. #everest2024

Everest 2024: Welcome to Everest 2024 Coverage

Everest Southeast Ridge Route Map. Courtesy of www.alanarnette.com © reproduction prohibited without authorization

Welcome to the kick-off for my Everest 2024 coverage! I have already posted a few articles on Everest 2022, so I officially welcome you. This season will be my 24th season of all things Everest: 18th time providing coverage, another four seasons of climbing on Everest, and two years attempting Lhotse.

I did similar coverage for 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2021, 2022, 2023 and now the 2024 season. In 2020, when Everest was closed due to COVID-19, I did a fictitious Virtual Everest series that’s available as an e-book. I summited Everest on May 21, 2011, and have attempted Everest three other times – 2002, 2003, 2008, and Lhotse in 2015 and 2016.

If you are one of my millions of regular readers, hello again; if you are new, welcome! My goal is to provide insight and analysis of the activity with no favorites or agendas. I use sources directly from the mountain, public information, and my own experiences to write my posts.

I usually post daily as the season gets started in early April and ramp up to almost hourly coverage during the intense summit pushes in mid to late May. I spend several hours a day creating these updates. You can sign up for (and cancel) email notifications on the lower right sidebar or check the site frequently.

Why do I do this? Well, one word: Alzheimer’s. I lost my mom, Ida, and four aunts to this disease, which changed my life forever. You can read more at this link. I hope you enjoy my coverage and donate to any of my selected non-profit partners or your preference as a tangible thank you. Of course, I never benefit financially from your donations. Just click on this button that is always on the top right sidebar.

#everest2024

Comparing the Routes of Everest – 2024 edition

Everest Routes

For 98% of all Everest climbers, the choice of routes comes down between the Northeast (Tibet) and Southeast (Nepal) Ridges. For almost everyone, all other routes are too dangerous, too difficult, and not commercially guided. This post will take a look at the various routes and go deep into the most popular commercial ones through 2023. #everest2024

Everest 2024 Podcast: Ryan Mitchell on how a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest

Ryan Mitchell

How a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest? Well, Ryan Mitchell, 19, living in central Massachusetts, explains how in this podcast.

Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while I told him there were many companies who would take his money and have him on Everest, the best approach would be to wait at least a year and gain the skills and experience it would take to make a safe attempt on the world’s highest peak. He agreed, and we’ve been working together for the past twelve months.

In this podcast, Ryan explains how he is funding his climbs, his training approach, and critically, is his “why”

#everest2024

Autumn 2023 Himalayan Roundup: Death, Rescue and Cancellations

The Autumn season moves on with climbs on Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri and the very popular Ama Dablam. However, there were more tragedies in the 8000-meter mountains, with a death on Dhaulagiri. Nepal continues to monetize its mountains, issuing 881 climbing permits across forty-two mountains, generating $450,000 in revenue. China and France represent the two largest countries climbing this Autumn.

The Best Guides for an 8000-Meter Mountain

We continue to see preventable deaths on the 8000-meter mountains. In this article, I’ll explore how they can be safely climbed, minimizing but never eliminating the risk of injury or death. To be clear, mountain climbing is dangerous whether you climb alone, with friends, are a sponsored professional or a client on a commercial team. If you don’t think you could die, you shouldn’t go.

It comes down to five basic principles: experience, leadership, judgment, risk management and personal responsibility. Let’s break them down.